MF720

I have a 80 720 king cab with an AT. Well after this winter I got tired of scraping and having my front valance be a snow plow and decided to return it to original height. Well stock looked nice so then of course I wanted it bigger. Now I have 32's, my torsions run up all the way, 1.5" add a leafs, lift shackles, and 2" ball joint spacers. So I need to do a body lift because I still rub every web site that sells them states they are for manual only what is the reason for this? What do I need to do or make to get around this? Also will re indexing my torsions get rid of my camber? I would add a pic but I am a dumbass and cannot find the attach button.

That was the plan just do the bearing but along came a buddy with his free offering to go single but I don't want to bother if there will be no improvement.

I was thinking that I might have to readjust the valves also? Still on the fence but want to try it. I don't really do much freeway driving and not putting it on a track so it would be nice to get up to speed now that sounds like my driving style.

Since my carrier bearing looks like it has been put through a meat grinder I was going to straighten out a few things. Bearing is bad due to bad pinion angle from non angle drop blocks being used. So i got new 4* angle drop blocks and was about to order up a new bearing when a friend told me he has a drive shaft laying around that he believes is long enough to convert to over to a single. Is there any good reason to do this? If so does anyone know where I should get the shaft length measurements from. Plan is to fix this in 2 weeks so I need to make a decesion.

I have come across a couple of mentions that there is 3 settings on the cam and that it is set at the middle for emissions. Is this true and if so what needs to be done to make this adjustment. Last but not least is it worth it? No real reason for me to do this but I sure want to just because it has peaked my curiosity.

Ok so the problem is solved, so my buddy rubbed his magic crytal ball and told me that it sounds like I do not have 12volts all the time to the anti dieseling soleniod and to put a jumper from the battery to the soleniod. Well I did and bam just like the fortune teller said I was sitting there finally with it running in gear. So then I rembered that i disconnected the some wires next to the charcoal canister so I ohmed them out and found the is where my 12v supply came from and the connecting wire well that is where my mistake was should have put a jumper in. Thanks for all of the wisdom. I tried to add pictures to the post tbut hat seems to be more difficult than fixing the 720 so I will add them to my profile.

I applied alot of loctite on the bolts due to all that I have read on here about the plate. I have hosed the carb down with a bottle of carb cleaner and now a bottle of starter fluid trying to find a leak and there is no change in engine speed at all. When adjusting the mixture screw I take it all the way in until litely seated then back it out 2 turns and tune from there it runs really good at about 2 1/4 turns. Reset everything this morning before I left work and found that fast idle screw was almost all the way in and was not letting the choke return. I backed it out until it was not in contact with the first cog on the fast idle cam then tuned it all up and nothing same problem will not run in gear. So I checked the dizzy and after this morning I have about 5 in of vacuum, does anyone now how much should be here at idle i thought that there should be no vac at idle and if so what other adjustments can be made other than the speed screw(it won't run if I back it out until no vac) to eliminate the vac problem?

Whoops forgot to state that I did replace the needle vavle twice and both were sticking. I thought at first it was the float and I opened the float housing and found the float bowl moving then noticed the needle vavle was stuck.The weber was an upgrade I wanted to do anyway so it was a good time to do it. The truck always seem to lack power but it seemed to be in tuning not that I am going to get great HP out of it anyway. Even with the Weber not right I can get it on the road with a 2 foot method and long as my foot is on the gas it runs like a bat out of hell.

Not quite sure if the stock carb has a dashpot because I don't know what that it.? Yes it will not stall if I rev it up to about 2500 rpm then put it in gear or if I turn the speed screw in until it is around that RPM. The idle is perfect it is unload that I am having the problems with.

Another newbie without pic's but I will have pic's soon but for now I am stumped. Beware long winded vent ahead but only to give the history so maybe there is a chance at help. Bought this wicked 1980 720 ext cab in Jan ran great (except for 2 minor things) for 3 month and the last 4 has been alot of wrench time. 1st day was new alt, second day was battery becuase I reconnected amp wire that was laying next to battery without checking to make sure was connected right (ooops). So I had the water pump go replaced that gave it a tune up while I was at it, then came carb problem's. So it would run for about 20 mins under load then sudden stall so I replaced fuel filter, then drove and it did it again so I checked for vacuum leaks found 2 and fixed but no improvement so checked fuel pressure and it was bouncing around 3 to 5 at idle so I replaced. Still having problems decided it was time to check the cat found that elbow of exhaust by my torsion bars smashed due to his crummy lowering job out came the grinder and cut off wheel now I am rocking a straight pipe while I fab up my soon to be stainless exhaust (got to love scraps from work). That of course made improvements but not what I was looking for so I rebuilt the Hatachi let the beer flow I finally got somewhere. Well at least I thought for 3 weeks of it running great then it came back but I was only getting 10 mins of run time found it was the fuel needle valve I think that is it's name. Well pop the hood take off air filter top give the carb a smack and back on the road to work and perform this over and over again until arrival at destination. Well that took about 2 days before I had enough and said its time for a Weber. Got a 32/36 DGEV from a friend that was on his shelf for 3 years and rebuilt it while waiting for adapter and linkage kit. Striped all smog off because I can in my area now it is rebuilt and installed. Again since I have gone this far new plugs, compression check, new fuel filter, and adjusted valves. So the carb is set to 2 turns out on the mixture screw and 1 1/2 on the speed screw and timing is at 12* and runs so good it gives you wood until you put it in drive the instantly falls on its face no stumble, stutter, hesitation nothing just off now like I turned the key off. Now I have been messing with the settings for 2 weeks and have not won yet the only thing that I can find is that at idle I have about 10in of vac at the dizzy unless I back the speed screw out until it is about to stall, I have check time at time again for vac leaks have had several buddies look at it and yet nothing. It will run in drive if a set the speed screw to 2800 RPM then it will not stall. hope the Ratsun gurus can get me on the road. Thanks for the help.