josh_t

Im surprised no one has made one considering how straightforward it is. They make them for most popular domestic differentials. I haven't even heard of someone having one made. While needing to be quite precise, it's also a very simple kit. A sleeve and shims.

I've never driven a 4 speed b210, but compared to auto, there is a night and day difference. That OD definitely is nice. Even with the 3.889 auto rear instead of the 3.70 the 5 speed originally would have, I cruise at like 3600 on the interstate. Far cry better than the 1:1 in the auto, being well over 4000 IIRC. And closer ratios with the 5 speed is nice too when you have so little torque to work with.

Auto driveshaft fits the 63a too, btw. It was very straightforward. Change pedal box, install hydraulics, put the pilot bushing in the crank and put the fly wheel on. And then in goes the transmission. Wiring is simple. Make sure you have the shim plate between the trans and the engine. I needed shifter bushings and the cup and both the inner shift boot and clutch fork boot. Got all that from a 71 series application from z car depot. Using redline trans fluid to not kill the synchros too.

Here are some oics I got for you of the master and slave cyls. Best I can do is the rear crossmember without the car being jacked up. I don't know much about the mount itself. I ran what was attached to it in the JY. Got this thing wrapped up just in time for IA ATL spring meet 2017. The auto to 63a swap is a breeze with that big ol tunnel.

Testing.... Testing...... This new-to-me picture function. Raw and uncut, here it is.

This is the OP, back on my old account. It's raining here today, so oics will have to wait a little. I may still have exedy part numbers for the swap too.

I have been on the hunt for info on crush sleeves on the H150 rear in my b210, and obviously I can't find a sleeve. But I'm also trying to figure out if it could be shimmed and reused as I've seen someone either on here or datsun1200 mention it. Either way, that's only a band aid fix. I don't like the crush sleeve idea in the first place. The 'murican cars can get crush sleeve eliminators to do away with them and just have a shim preload setup. Anyone looked into doing this? Looks like easy lathe work with the proper dimensions. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=8280

I want to know how this turned out. Did you tear into it yet? The last time i heard a squealing noise inside an engine was when my Dodge 318 finally gave up the ghost 2 weeks after a really hard, 6k+ RPM pull with ~10 psi oil pressure (ran for 2-3 years prior at that pressure) In my case, the sound was a rod bearing being spun. That engine had wiped a few cam lobes in the process as well. Hopefully yours didn't suffer too much damage so it would be still rebuildable.

Long time no post. Well too little fuel, too much timing, and too high of compression for that combo to run well lead to a bit of really hard detonation when i got to doing some angry driving one day in December. Engine developed a dead misfire on one cylinder. #3 hole has no compression and lots of oil. Drove it home, parked it and got my truck going. Then i finally got around to looking into whats up with the engine. Looks like a broken ring land according to my bore scope. No scoring of the cylinder from what i can tell. Head needs to come off to know for sure. Pics and more details when that happens.

Now that you say that, i think i have seen a VW in that color.

I really like the simple clean stock look of this car. And the roof rack w/ bike is perfect. Your color scheme works well too. Do you have a color code for that blue?

no the condenser is always separate but the stock radiator is pretty much cradled in by the copper a/c lines on mine so i have to keep the stock radiator.

man i should have been the one to steal yours. lol. jk. im gonna have to get that rockauto one for my b as well. i sold my yellow one with the blue cars radiator in it so i could say it was a running driving car. I've got to keep the stock radiator cuz im keeping my a/c. My a/c is all original and all connected and it holds vacuum indefinitely. new dryer, new oil and r134a should be all it needs. Why keep it? Cuz Daily car.