Lugnutz

This was a VERY easy and satisfying repair. My 1986 720 is 2WD and has 215K miles. I had some vibration in the steering which turned out to be a bad tire. However, I discovered along the way that I had a lot of slop in the steering linkage. I checked prices on parts and was surprised how cheap they are. You will need a front end alignment after this repair, so keep that in mind for the budget. Check the steering linkage for too much play. Jack the PS wheel off the ground, leaving the DS wheel in contact with the pavement. Grab the PS tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle the tire in a left turn - right turn fashion. If there is much wiggle, then have a helper observe the tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm joints for laxity. If you can wobble the PS tire and the DS stays still, that's a sign of worn out Tie Rod, Idler Arm or Center Link joints or ALL OF THE ABOVE. Chances are that if you have 200K miles on the parts, then you are due for this repair. Other symptoms are uneven tire wear, wandering in the steering and vibration that varies with the speed. I got great prices on parts at Rockauto.com. Inner Tie Rods were $11.41 ea (you'll need 2) Outer Tie Rods were $10.23 ea (you'll need 2) Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves were $6.80 ea (you'll need 2) Center Link was $45.79 (you need 1) Idler Arm was $27.79 (you need 1) Total = 130.46 plus shipping You will disconnect the steering linkage at only 4 places. 1. The PS Outer Tie Rod end from the Knuckle Arm 2. The DS Outer Tie Rod end from the Knuckle Arm 3. The Idler Arm from the Frame 4. The Center Link from the Pitman Arm.

The pressure bleed idea is good and not difficult. Suction (or vacuum) bleeding is also well liked. For me, I need someone at the reservoir making sure it doesn't run dry. The method I described uses pressure but not CONTINUOUS pressure. Pumping the pedal builds up pressure in the system because of the valve design in the MC piston AND the clutch damper. As the helper pumps the pedal a few times (with the slave bleeder closed) you can see the slave piston extend to its maximum length. With the slave piston at its max, there is pressure coming from 2 directions. The clutch is trying to force fluid back into the slave AND there is pressure in the metal tubing coming from the MC. When you crack open the slave bleeder, the clutch and the MC are simultaneously pushing fluid out of the slave bleeder. Crack it open, then quickly close it. Repeat. I'm not a mechanic, so the main feature of my DIY was to show that a clutch MC is rather simple to replace. Bleeding options are numerous. I just bought a Craftsman Vacuum Bleed kit (same as Mityvac silverline). It was affordable and doesn't take up as much room as the graden sprayer. I'm glad people seem to like this thread. B)

It's been a while since I posted a DIY, but I had to replace my clutch MC this past weekend. It died (sorta) after 212K miles. The inner piston got stuck inside the MC. Anyway, the swap looked easy, but it gave me a little trouble. The new MC was cheap - $19 at Autozone. :biggrin: Bleeding the air outa the lines had me frustrated, but I finally got it right. Anyway, here are some pics to help guide you through some of the process. Remember: 1. The new MC MUST have the same bore and stroke as your old unit. 2. Your clutch line fittings are probably corroded so I suggest using a vice grip to break them loose on the first try and then using a line wrench to tighten them back up when putting things back together. 3. Brake fluid will eat paint, so don't get it on your nice paint. Wipe spills off right away. 4. Now would be a good time to bleed all the old DOT3 outa the clutch lines and replace it with fresh. 5. I am not a mechanic, so right or wrong, what you read here is just how I did it.

A Weber might be the right choice. Then again, I chose to rebuild. Here's my DIY post for the carb rebuild. You definately have a Hitachi carb and the rebuild kit is pretty cheap. http://community.rat...vy/#entry515654 Here is my guide to where all the vacuum lines go. The post used my 1986 720 with a Z24. Yours might have minor differnces. You can tell from all the vacuum line pics that it is a real mess, so go slow when examining the vacuum lines and make sure you put them back the way they came off. Good luck! http://www.nicoclub....pair-guide.html

Sorry, The 1982 items are no longer available.

***UPDATE*** Got my new fan blade! Buddy of mine found the correct fan blade in the Pull a Part in Charlotte. Thanks to all who tried to help. FYI: He says that fan blade is on 80-83 200SX 83-89 Pickups and 87-89 Pathfinders with a 4 cylinder

Thanks for the effort. I have a lead on another one maybe. I will make something work. As far as extra time, yeah, I'm short on that too. I got a 65 Chevy 1/2 ton I'm restoring, so it gets all my extra time. I figure my 720 is jealous and that's why she's giving me trouble lately. I might have to hit the PAP in other cities with a road trip if a blade doesn't turn up soon. LOL!! Thanks for the help. :thumbup: Check out the website: www.lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com

<br /><br /><br /> Jeff, Yes, yes yes!!! Many thanks! Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I will cover all the costs plus extra for your trouble. Jay

Hey there! My water pump failed. Fan blade ruined my radiator and my fan blade is ruined. But hey, I got it home in one piece - errr . . . . not exactly . . . my fan blades are laying on the interstate. So I have not yet exhausted my options for a parts yard fan blade. . . . but I have not found one yet. Should I go electric? Anyone done that and have advice for me?

All items have been SOLD! thanks for looking

I have a front PS marker light assembly and a rear DS marker light assembly. Is that what you need?

See my post. I thought I sent it to you but I guess I goofed.

Sure thing. I also have a front passenger marker light assembly and a rear drivers marker light assembly from a 76 620. Both are in great shape. I will get you a cost for shipping once I am home from work.