Kingman

Well that didn't take long...

Fixed the alignment issue with new ball joints, some UCA spacers, and a torsion bar crank a while back. A driveway alignment made it drive pretty straight but the tie rod ends are so worn it's hard to get it "right." Good 'nuff. Found some very nice 30x9.50x15 MTs for $35 a piece and threw those on, fit like a glove. Damn these little trucks can go just about anywhere! (untill you accidently jump them and blow the front end out.) lol. I put the truck up for sale for $1200 and got blown up, then a guy said he'd gladly give me $1500 for it if I held it for a few days. So it's getting sold along with my Z car. Good truck, served it's purpose, now it can be enjoyed by another outdoorsman. I put the back slider in yesterday for him and washed it. Gonna miss the little bugger. It's just not big enough for piloting.

That's exactly what I do with my Weber. I haven't jetted it properly yet so it likes to diesel sometimes but runs good otherwise. Did it twice after I put it on and I thought "well I know exactly how to fix that problem!"

Are those the Platinum Pathfinder wheels? They look good.

Ever figure out your guys' problem?

Check out that mad camber yo. My bad! :rofl:

Put SUs on an L20B and you'll have shitloads of idle-up torque.

Put a Weber on it tonight to solve a gutless and no idle issue. I'd say it worked pretty well! Fucker shits and gits. I need smaller air and idle jets for it, the smallest ones my kit had were 180/170 and 65/70. Adapting the throttle linkage was as easy as a vice and a BFH. Haven't done much else to it yet other than tires and replace coolant hoses that kept blowing. First one was the one going under the intake manifold to the front of the engine, dealer only and a bitch. Second, a few days later, was the heater core hose alongside the back of the block. Only ones left to replace are the lower radiator hoses, and I s'ppose the ones going through the firewall.

I found my issue - the lower carb to manifold gaskets blew. Looks like the guy before me had it off once and re used the gaskets like a jackass. I have the carb off now, waiting for my buddy to get off work so I can get my Weber adapter out of his truck and stick a new carb on it.

Well there's always this route... I plan on building a center console with a sub box built in to it where that sub is.

Haven't had a chance to look closer, but carb cleaner pours out of the bottom of the carb behind the idle screw when I spray it in from the top. Yeah, I think that'll do it!

It will race the engine even with the full choke on. Pretty much so with the recap. It will start with out my foot on the gas now but it'll die, with my foot on the gas I can keep it alive down to 1,500RPM but it surges. Runs perfect when it's cold and the choke is on, yes. Before this happened no it wouldn't idle below 1,000. I actually didn't mind that because around 700 it lost oil pressure lol. But it did idle very smoothly and the only real problem it had was the dead spot in the throttle and the occasional run on. The day it went all gunny waggle it was running just fine all the way up until when I felt the truck shake once and the engine was dead. I replaced the coils already. I had one laying around and I bought the second. I had figured that jumping the coils wouldn't do me much good other than probably burn out a transistor. But now that it's firing off the module and it's still the same I'd say that had nothing to do with it and like I said before, that coil might have not been firing for a long ass time. The carb has 252K miles on it. Now that I'm not working until after the holidays I'll have more time to tinker with it. I couldn't take it apart to a point where I couldn't drive it the next day but now I can. Honestly. if I had enough money laying around we wouldn't even be having this conversation because I would have driven it home and started pulling the engine to put a VG33 in it...

Yes and to be extra sure I sprayed starting fluid on the underside of the diaphragm, through the exhaust inlet, and through the vacuum port and the engine didn't flinch. It's not hooked up anyway since the previous owner cut the tube off the manifold. Lol yes I'm sure he could. I'm not an excellent mechanic though. I'd much rather build a custom wiring harness than deal with carburators.

I tested it already, and it ain't leaking. Wish it was. :no: