baycity720

bump for the cleanest virgin 720 on here

Thanks bro

You are correct. It did not come with a/c from the factory.

1985 Nissan 720 pickup standard cab auto location: Mobile, AL price: $2,500 contact: Thomas @ 251- five-0-eight-0-nine-1-four I work swing shift, so if you call, and I don't answer, leave me a voice mail or shoot me a text. I have decided to sell my 85' 720. I was given to me by my grandfather on June 25'th. Since I got it I have put less than 150 miles on it. I simply never drive it and I'll probably never do anything with it. It sits in the garage, and I need to make a spot in the garage for my 240sx. When I got it, I put a new battery in it, new plugs, changed the oil, oil filter, trans fluid, trans filter, and air filter. It starts and runs like a new vehicle. It has a set of tires/wheels from a 2000 Frontier on it, but the factory rollers are in the back and come with the truck. Here is a link to the thread when I got it: http://community.rat..._1#entry500733. It has the original paint, and has never been wrecked, and the interior is flawless. I have all of the factory paperwork and books from when it was bought new. You just don't find these truck in this condition anymore. It has always been here in Mobile, and because it does not snow here, there is no rust. Maybe if I didn't already have a ton of money in my rb25 swapped s14, I'd keep it and swap an sr20 in it, but I can't afford 2 money pits at the same time.

Thanks for the compliments. Yea, I guess I'll try to find a trans filter for it and swap it when I drop the pan. I'm going to weld a bung on it when it's off, so I can drain in the future without dropping the pan. I'm absolutely amazed at how good it runs and how quick it starts up. Even though it hadn't been turned over in over 2 years, it started the third time the motor turned over. They really are amazing little trucks.

Well, as I said in my intro, this truck was given to me by my grandfather and it hasn't been started in over two years. I actually went and picked it up today. This is what it looked like under the carport. . . .... . and after dropping off the camper shell behind office max, and 4 hours of washing and cleaning, it now looks like this. Overlook the tires having dirty spots, it will be getting Titan wheels soon: I just got through changing the oil in it, and tomorrow I'm putting on a new fuel filter and a set of plugs. I crawled up under it to see if it had a drain plug on the transmission pan and couldn't find one. I'm not sure if it doesn't have one or if I just didn't see it. Either way I want to change it and the gear oil in the rear diff. I was amazed that after checking all the fluids and adding 5 gallons of fresh gas, it fired right up. Other than it idling high, it ran fine and is still running great.

Thank you sirs. I've been building import street/strip CARS for 16 years. This is my first truck, so it's a learning curve.

Werd. I just wanted to know what parts I need to do it so I could order the parts, then when I do a build thread, I can install the parts and take pics.

Thanks. I've replaced every part on the front cover (water pump, oil pump, idler pulley and tensioner) and every bolt is brand new Ni coated flare heads. I have everything to finish putting it together except for cams. I ordered a set of Kelford 272's 2 months ago, and they still haven't came in from New Zealand. Supposedly they're having core problems. As soon as I get them in, I'll put it together and throw it all in the car and snap some pics of it.

What is the best way to do a performance lower a 720 without fabrication?

where could i find a gauge cluster with the tach and clock? Also, what components do you all use to lower these trucks? Does someone like Belltech make blocks for the rear? How do you lower the front?

#1. the stock ka tranny is the same as an sr and hardbody. They are good to around 400ft lbs. If you go bigger, the z32 trans in near undestructable. Mazworx sells the adapter kit for sr20. #2. The ka and sr will hold about the same amount of power before they pop which is around the 400-425whp range. The ka has a much stronger block though being cast iron versus the sr having an alumi um block with floating cylinders like a Honda motor. #3. Rear mount turbo systems suck balls because of the heat energy lost through the 8ft of pipe going to the turbine housing. They are normally used on cars with super cramped engone bays like newer vettes. A 2871 disco will make plenty of power for that truck and not grenade the bottom end.

Stock block with freshly rebuilt head. Supertech double springs & Ti retainers, Kelford 272's, HKS cam gears. Still waiting on my Love Fab top mount to get here. Turbo is a T3 Bullseye S366 w/ race cover. AEM EMS, 880's, HKS fuel rail, Aeromotive A1000 fpr, Aeromotive stealth 340lph, all -6 lines. I will stop the tuning at 520whp on pump gas. It should do it no problem. RB's will make enough power on pump gas with a good enough setup so sling a rod. 500whp is supposed to be the stopping point.

Anyone ever thought about running a set of these? I'm thinking these will look the jam on my 720. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCW-52-6883S4/