racecar68dad

So many questions, so little time. I read this complete post hoping to get some idea of what this young man really wants to do. I think it,s his dads project and he,s trying to get the son to approve and work on the car he brought home. 110datsun, if you,re really interested in this project, convince dad to fix this car just as it is. fix the original engine etc. Then drive it for a while. Having a reliable car to drive while your in school is a bigger deal than having an almost fast car later. (someone will have a faster, cooler, one anyway). Then when you have had some fun with an original datsun, you might have an idea of what you want, and procede from there. I have considerable more experience than most on this forum, (not better just more) my first car was a 51 ford woody wagon w/239 flathead V-8. My first new car a 1970 big block nova. Blah blah. A good reliable economical car is a good thing right now. If, this project is not you favorite, tell you dad. Trust me he,ll get it Most of all, knowledge is power. Stay in school Read car books, try to learn all you can about what interests you. I know I,m sounding like a teacher ,but I,ve been down this road before. I hope you are sucessful, it will be more work than you imagined, But! oh the rewards and memories..

1) long rod 2089 L-series race engine complete. 2.2 block 2.0 liter crank, 152.45mm lz20 rods. Isky cam and springs, unilite dist,set up for holly 500,(no carb) datsun comp header, datsun comp aluminum flywheel. this is a used race eng.so the clutch needs serviced, the valve springs should be replaced. runs good $500 offer, 2) 510 adjustable rear beam. This is a new beam I built w/1/4 steel brackets. slotted both inside and outside. sealed mono balls in the A arms. 9/16 bolts through the brackets and arms. Its real stout! adjustable for camber and toe The real deal. It should be worth $500. But make me an offer. 3) misc 510 nuts bolts etc. I,ve got a bunch of pieces from parting out 510,s and some eng. bearings. I just found a 3.90 diff. Call me about any of this stuff. The eng and beam are in north seattle Rick Davidson 509 989 2028 ricncath@dishmail.net

I have a VG30 and ECU from a 91 maxima. I just replyed to 510goofy,s ad and realized I should have posted this stuff. 91-92 VG30 core, the eng turns over and is complete with all brackets. But!! it is a core.. $100.00 91 maxima ECU for 5-speed car. I installed it in my car to check for 1 cyl miss. after replacing bad injector, it ran perfect. I reinstalled my original ECU. ECU $85 includes frt. I bought this from Ferrels in Snohomish and have the receipt. This is in central wa. Rick Davidson 1 509 246 2120 or ricncath@dishmail.net

I have a vg30 complete and the ecu for a 5-speed from a 91 maxima. I,m in central Wa. The engine is a core, I bought it for my project and ended up not using it. I would not expect it to be without issues, I did turn it over and did a leakdown test. It didn,t leak more than 30% on any cyl. But!! This is still a core engine. The ecu is good, I installed it in my 91 maxima to trouble shoot a 1 cyl miss, After i replaced the bad injector the engine ran fine. I then reinstalled my original ecu. So, the ecu for $85 includes frt. I,m almost sure your not going to ship an engine from central wa. to Cali, but $100 for the engine. Sorry to be so long on the post. Rick Davidson 1 509 246 2120

If you don,t need an aluminum fitting, most hydralics shops have steel AN fittings. Also go to Racingwest and look in the classifieds for used race parts. If any of your friends are racers, or know racers, they usually have some way of getting a better deal. Good luck!!

If you want to lower your car and have a stiffer spring, you cut the original springs the amount you think you need and reinstall.. A coil spring gets stiffer as it gets shorter. I learned this trying to lower the rear of my 510 racecar.. You need to be careful, If you lower too much you might bottom out the strut. Therre are other ways to do this, reposition the spring seats, shorten the struts and use shorter cartridges. The way I first described is the cheapest way to try and get what you want. Any other ideas out there? Feel free to jump on this idea

Stilltwisted, I,m in eastern wa. but the parts are at my sons place in north seattle. We raced a 510 as a ministock at evergreen speedway for several years. I built a long rod 2.2 in 1996 and this one is the younger brother of that one. I have a new slotted rear beam also. with self centering bearing and long slots. Like 4" on the inside. I have pic,s of the beam if your interested. sorry it looks like your a ways away. but who knows we may work something out.. Thanks for the interest Rick Davidson

I dont know what your doing, But, I have a Long rod engine to sell. Its a 22 block with the long z-20 rods and pistons with a l20b crank. It has an isky cam, springs, retainers, a factory 510 header. alum flywheel and roadster clutch. also a mallory unilite distributer. the pan is built for circle track racing. This engine is not fresh it needs to come apart and be inspected and freshened. I forgot. also overhead oiler, overdrive pulleys and aftermarket belt tensioner. We raced this engine at 8200 without failures. It might work on the street but most likely would need different cam. I have lots of other 510 race related stuff that has to go I would listen to any reasonable offer!! start at $500 Have adjustable 510 rear beam, several diffs trans etc

The engine parts and the adjustable rear beam I had listed are now in seattle if you want to see them Thanks, Rick Davidson

I have a complete lz-20e block in good condition. This is the base for a long rod motor, 152.45mm rods and 1.25mm pin height pistons. And a good forged crank. I haven,t cleaned anything,so you see it as I took it apart. I see no problems other than the slight rust in the bores, I think a good scrub with a scotchbrite would clean it. My plans have changed.. $100.00 Rick Davidson 509 989 2028 or 509 246 2120 ricncath@genext.net Pictures: http://s622.photobucket.com/albums/tt307/racecar68dad/

This is racer68,s dad I built the suspension! It has 4 1/2 inches of travel on the inside arms and 2 inches on the outside arms. The arms have self aligning bearings and the slotted brackets are 1/4 steel. The inside brackets are bolted so you can shim them to adjust rear toe. I don,t know what type of adjustable beam you,re used to seeing, but this one is more for road racing or drifting. Thanks for reading Racecar68dad

I,m in soap lake, eastside I may come to south sound speedway this spring. I,m in no hurry. I just finished a slotted beam and arms with self aligning bearings and I have enough parts for 1 more so I may need some arms I,ll post when I know for sure iff I,m coming west. thanks for the reply racecar68dad

just saw your post for swing arms, are yours bent? or bad bushings? I,m looking for some that aren,t bent, but I dont care about the bushings or anything else as long as they arent bent thanks racecar68dad

I dont mean to butt into your dialogue, but!!! a week or so back I posted that the Bob Waar book How to modify Datsun 510 610 240z engines and chassis was offered on ebay for $25. This manuel is 240 pages of datsun info and answered all the questions you just asked. I encourage all, everyone, to try and own this Datsun manuel. you have all the info, pictures, and old part numbers right in front of you at all times. It is great reading about Bob sharp, Pete Brock, Paul Newman damn I get all misty just thinking about it. Bottom line when your ready to work you have the info you need. No waiting for the email or post to answer your questions. Sorry to be so long, but its that good

I,ve done several l20b,s for our racecar and because my son worked at carquest at the time we used their parts. the bearings are sealed power brand. You should have no problem with the NAPA parts. Now... please consider using NEW rod bolts, the oem ones. And NEW head bolts the turbo ones. You can get this from the local dealer and its the cheapest engine insurance you can get. We run the l20 hybrid in our ministock at 8200 for hundreds of laps and no problems Not the cheap way to go, but it will be bulletproof!!!!!