Tucson620

Can't remember how I ordered - think it was a supplier like Datsun Garage maybe? Anyways, they placed wholesale windshield order for my '71 521 and it was already in stock in the warehouse at Mygrant glass in Tucson. They put order as will call and I picked up myself. Bought new rubber and took to a local glass installer. Rear glass is flat and could potentially be measured and custom cut if you get desperate.

Found a pic of the family Arrow - ca. 1984? The day Dad dragged it home for teen driver project. Fender was replaced, rough body work elsewhere, a hideous orange-peel blue paint job - was like lava on the hood (you could squish it around with a finger) 😄 Chunk of c-channel aluminum for front bumper - no grill (looked mean). We drove it for 5 years, eventually a HS car for me.

I notice the domain http://www.plymouthfirearrow.com/ is available!!

Cool! Dad dragged a beat-up Arrow home for sisters to use in high school, eventually I drove it for a couple years. 2 liter, not the fancy-ass Fire Arrow. Was actually a comfortable and practical car with hatch - and surprisingly good performance. I remember I could easily beat my friend's gold Firebird off the line due to low gearing - and handled well too. I've got a service manual for the Arrow - been trying to find someone who wants it for awhile!

The Weber 32/36 throttle shaft is sensitive to over tightening - causes the throttle to hang up like this, not drop all the way back down. Since you mentioned PO install, I'd look at that. Not uncommon to replace the throttle levers during install, thus have the nut off/on - for Datsun cable throttle lever, etc. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/weber_carburetor_bench_assembly.htm And then maybe PO didn't adjust idle properly for fully closed, cranked open idle jet. So too low at 'real' idle. Read up on Weber setup - super easy if you follow the rules for best lean idle.

Was saying the 195/50 R15 seemed popular in the Chevy Rallye threads for lowered trucks - function, appearance, rubs, etc. Comparison to stock size. More burly looks good to me - but tradeoffs. I tried 225/50R15 but they rubbed horribly.

Rub is at front inner fender at full lock - think one side. Had to tune height and fenders aren't straight. Here's some other Chevy Rally threads with pics - good information. 195/50R15 on lowered truck seemed popular. https://ratsun.net/topic/54224-chevy-rallys-on-521-any-issues/ https://ratsun.net/topic/71107-chevy-rallye-tire-sizebrand/

215/60 R15 - lowered 3". Work for me w/light rub at full lock. My fenders are rolled though. Equivalent to 25.5" x 8.5"

Thanks for input. 2 of them are kick panel screws. On the passenger side, the other is for parcel shelf. Not sure the driver side. Point is they're leaking even when the screw is in place. Will figure it out. Multiple leaks to address.

Found other threads like this one: https://ratsun.net/topic/37800-521-leak-spots/ with helpful reference to mklotz70 Mend thread. But could use some help. Floor boards are suffering. Forget the carpet kit idea for now. Garden hose testing shows multiple leaks, but the damning ones were three screw holes under the kick panels. And window rubbers, quarter glass too. From mklotz70's thread - what's supposed to stop water coming in these holes (see pic)? Have kick panel screws into two of them, but still leak. And I bought and installed ebay Thailand window felts, squeegees, and quarter glass rubbers. Felts seem ok. But the squeegees didn't fit worth a damn, had to modify to even come close. And quarter window rubbers don't seal either. Water just pours down into the doors and inside across door cards. Is there a good source for these? Successful technique tips? Am familiar with the cab seams at lower corners of windshield. No leaks there since new windshield and front/rear window rubbers. Roof drip rail seam is another problem area - need seam sealer attention.

Thanks - would be good to set a solid measurement. Have several stock L16 and L20B and am running an adapter plate currently. The Cannon's mounting plate looks pretty beefy compared to stock.

Sorry to hijack, thread sitting a few days. But does anybody know if the above Cannon DGV manifold has a lower carb installed height than a stock Datsun intake + Weber Adapter plate? (3/8" or so)?

Ratsun close. As I recall, the frame mount holes were close to on-center, I think drilled out a bit. And the stud is fatter, so drilled out my 521 engine mounts. As mentioned, the speedway mounts are very stiff and transmit more noise/vibration. But dropped the engine a little from the stock mount, and approx. 5/16" from the fat 620 mount . Specs are here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Square-Rubber-Engine-Motor-Mount-Pads,1181.html

Went through this awhile back when my old engine mounts needed replacing. My 521 hood is pretty rough and supports are sagging. When I adapted a stock-appearing air cleaner to a Weber, it created hood clearance problems. Ended up buying all the "521" mounts offered on RockAuto - they are all thick ugly 620 mounts. See below. For the moment, am using a universal motor mount I found at Speedway Motors - intended for V8s I think. It's got a fatter 1/2" stud and is way to stiff for the 4 cylinder motor. Original 521 mount filthy left. 3 flavors of 620 mounts to right. The right/left indications for 620 mounts are a mess too - some say both sides, some say R/L only, etc. The middle one (no label) was another brand offered as for both sides - but basically same as EM-2533.

Taking a look... discusses the bore/stroke combinations, and the Z22 components specs (block, pistons, crank, connect rods, etc.) are listed in spec tables throughout. And mentioned with part considerations - e.g. counterbalanced, bolt holes, journal sizes, etc. But there's no 'How to assemble a badass LZ' section.