510Hansi

yeahhhh

bumppppppppppppppppppp

these are in good shape. i just want what i paid for them. $40 plus shippnig and paypal fees.

soldddddddddddddddddd

1971 Datsun 510 2 door Clean title in hand L16 motor with a 4 speed tranny 32/36 dvg carb (recently rebuild) runs great New oem metal fenders. (SUPER RARE) Less than 500 miles: Spark plugs, Points, Water pump, Thermostat, Coil, Radiator hose, Front brake lines, Master cylinder, Wheel cylinder, Battery, Car runs and drives, and is pretty complete has about everything, just needs interior parts This is a project, there is rust in the floor boards and some on the passenger front quarter panel. The brakes need to be bled properly, but they work. Will need to be towed home! because the brakes are not bled and i wouldnt feel safe letting you drive it like that ( i hope you understand my concern) Extra parts: Fiber glass trunk lid. Whole tail light panel (yes Its cut out of a 71 510) 530 216 8505 call/text Asking 1600.00 firm dont offer me 1200 or 1500, my answer will be no. no trades. located in Nor Cal, 1 hour north of sac ]

That's my 510. :)

whats your paypal? i need that steering columb cover ( where your ignition is located/ emergency lights)

how much for the steering columb cover/ bezel

thank you to all who contributed.

i have this VW radiator, i dont know much about it, but the cap is a plastic twist-on like a 2 liter soda cap & when the engine gets warm, it starts to drip out from sides of the cap. does this seem normal? isnt the cap suppose different? & not no soda cap twist on crap?

yeah i meant air gap on the distributor. but i got the car running now. i increased the speed screw and followed your instructions on the mixture screw. the speed screw was set at 300 rpm which makes sense why it would barly idle, so i advanced it. also the reason why the timming light was jumping around was........ (kinda ashamed to say this but..) i had the sensor for the timing light on the coil wire instead of a wire going to the spark plugs. but once i relized that i changed it & it was good to go. ok this is the ignition set up. i only see the coil resistor, i do not have a ballast resistor. while the car was running or a couple of minutes i felt the coil and it was warm, not hot just good warm. Is this correct? two same wires going to the distributor? VIDEO: car running & idling :) ok soo its puffing out black smog, running rich i assume. how do i fix this? i tried messing with the mixure screw but i feel like i dont have the "ear" for carbs like you guys do. actually i just remembered that i have both idle screws all the way out. im sure if i screw them in and mess with the mixtures i can figure it out.

vacuum advance is going to the carb. also, no one has said anything about my compression numbers. 130,145,130,125. theses are no where near 171 & what is the difference between the ballast resistor and the coil resistor? i ask because i dont believe i have a ballast resistor but i do have a coil resistor.

yeah, i agree. i just have a feeling that the carb shop didnt set the air gap at .020. but you said old dizzys bushings wear out which causes side to side wiggle, well i checked my dizzy and i can move the rotor back and forward a little amount. man i realy dont want to buy a dizzy, there expensive.. what if the ballast resistor is bad? or the coil resistor or condenser or ignition capacitor, would any of theses cause the timming mark to jump? VIDEO:

the car starts up everytime and if i keep my foot on the pedal it will stay on. but as soon as i let off it will go down to very low idle and die. no matter how long the car is on. ive even had the car on for 10 minutes and still did the same.

lol ive had this car for a couple of months now and i havnt even drove it. but ill be sure to move the battery around and legitly tie the battery down. thanks for the advise.