Fishtopher

Oil Control rings being the ones around the piston correct?? I test for leaking valve guides with a vacuum gauge?? When I get a hold of one I'll post what I find. Is my truck in eminent danger of nuking itself? Should I park it until I sort everything out?

I didn't even, bother with the wet test because all of the cylinders compressed between 145-150 psi well within 80% of 171psi. I drove the truck around town and so far it seems to have stopped squirting oil out, I need to buy a stock dipstick for this thing, or at least make a rubber gasket for the dipstick. I let my friend borrow the truck, and he let another friend borrow it, and it turns out the second friend had put some oil in the truck, so I'm banking on the problem being overfill of oil. When I'm driving the truck at highway speed down a hill and then let off the gas I get a ploom of smoke come in through the firewall. (Basically any time I have high revs and off the throttle) I've never figured out what it is, I thought that maybe it was this oil out the dipstick problem and I just didn't know I've had it so long, but with good compression I don't know. BTW my engine, front and back but mostly driverside, and my differential were covered in caked on burnt on oil, how would oil out a dipstick get to the front of the engine? I must have a second leak somewhere.

Changed the oil and filter and replaced the PCV, (the old one looked fine). There is oil everywhere under the air box, and a few of the vacuum hoses were broken or cracked, I fixed what I could, but need to replace them all very soon. I didn't get a chance to drive the truck enough to see if oil was still coming out the dipstick.tomorrow I'll check the compression.

Thanks for the info datzenmike!! That really provides some clarity for me about these motors.

correct napz Repair mostly, though I find performance books to be much more informative in general. I just bought "how to rebuild your nissan datsun OHC engine" which is all about L motors up to 78' and "how to modify your nissan datsun OHC engine" which covers the nissan motors more broadly and "1982 Datsun Pick-Up Service Manual" which hasn't arrived yet. I understand the L20B and the napz are really similar, mostly just a different head, does that make the info I'll find in "how to rebuild your nissan datsun OHC" helpful? or am I walking into a trap? I realize if I do end up having to rebuild this motor I will need engine specific specs, but this will be the first time I'll rebuild an engine alone. Right now I guess I'm just trying to collect as much info as possible.

I'm finding lots of stuff for the l series motors, is there much difference between the two? Besides the Siamese heads and fuel injection(on some).

Thanks ggzilla I'll post up how it all turns out tomorrow

I've got oil blowing out my dipstick. It has a shitty aftermarket dipstick that doesn't provide a seal. Also I've got a few teaspoons of oil in my air box from the PCV. Z22e motor if that makes a difference. Possible causes PCV valve is blocked Replace pcv Blowby at the piston rings Check compression Vague mistery oil filter problem I've heard about Change oil filter Oil overfilled Oil change with correct amount of oil Any other reason oil would blow out my dipstick? Also this is just one of potentially 2 oil leaks any recommendations on a stop leak product? Or is that stuff really not recommended?

well I couldn't find a fusible link, (I was looking for it right out of the pos side of the battery, didn't find anything unless they wrapped up in casing and tape), but I did find a red wire separated from its connector, jammed it in and pow!! the lights work, can't believe I ripped off the dash and everything just to find a loose wire at the battery, guess I'm gonna work on all the ducting and try and get the heater to work. Thanks for all your help.

I'll be sure to check the fusible links, haven't checked those yet. It makes sense to me that it is likely an open that's causing the problem. Do you know, does the power run straight into the two 10A fuses? or does it run into the relay first? I'm confused as to the path of electricity cause the fuses run to ground but the wiring diagram says they should be hot all the time. I didn't try letting the relay warm up, I never had the problem before, but at some point I did smell burning inside the car. At the time I figured it was the oil my friend spilt all over the engine, but looking back the smell was definitely of burning plastic and not burning oil. oic??? is that a picture of my whole truck? if so it will be up soon.

So my headlights won't turn on, my marker lights all work, my blinkers work, and my brake lights work, only the headlights don't work. I'm pretty sure I have a short somewhere but I'm not sure where or exactly how to go about finding it out. Below I've put up some pictures and some of the things I've tested to sort this problem out. And could someone explain how the wiring works for the headlight, I've read and reread the wiring diagram but I still can't figure it quite out, a little plain English on the subject would be greatly appreciated. So to settle this problem I tried finding continuity between different points, tried jumping contacts to get the lights working, and all sorts of other weird connections to see what was going on. In reference to the Headlight switch itself I checked continuity to see if it was still good, this is what I got. see photo below When the switch is in the 'on' position A,B, and D all have continuity. When the switch is 'on' and the high beams are 'on' A and B have cont, but D doesn't. C and E have cont in both situations. To me this says that the switch is working, and operates on the ground side, C and E are for the marker lights, and D is for the high beams. On the Connector to the headlight switch I checked voltage on all the wires and got 12.5 volts on the Red/Blu wire only ( I expected voltage on the Red wire as well) I then jumped the hot Red/Blu wire to the other wires in the connector to see what happened. Red/Grn = Headlights on and high beams on (my test wire got quite hot quite quickly) Red/Yel = Markers came on ( I think this is normal operation) Red/wht = the relay above the fuse panel clicked on(I didn't check to see if it actually made the connection across the relay, figured if the coil was good the relay was good) Red = nothing noticeable Red/Grn, Red/Yel, and Red/Wht all go to ground I also checked continuity between the three pronged headlight plug and found that all three go to ground, I expected at least one to not go to ground. The two 10A fuses that control the headlights both go to ground( I expected them to be hot, as per the wiring diagram) I don't have any other electrical issues, the car starts no problem, and the battery doesn't die when parked(as I would expect with a short). I'm not sure where I'm having faulty understanding of the wiring diagram, or a fault in the wiring.