GTSRolla34

It's been a while and it's probably too late for a reply, but just for reference: $385 Megasquirt 3 Unassenbked (I did the assembly) $105 MS3X Expansuon board $70 4-Bar MAP sensor $560 total...not including the harnesses

Are you referring to the rear? as in disc to disc measurements? Axle Housing Information. 1. Axle housing ends/Backing plate bolt pattern is the same for both AE86 GT-S & MA46/MA47. 2. Drain/Fill plugs are the same thread/size (interchangeable) as they are for most Toyota’s. So is the differential vent. 3. Pinion Flange same bolt pattern. But will require shortening the driveshaft, or a shorter one. 4. Axle housing lengths (actual backing plate flange). MA46/MA47 = 1290mm or 50 3/4" (approx.) AE86 (SR-5 & GT-S) = 1275mm or 50 1/4" (approx.) 5. Sway bar mounts on the MA46/MA47 are the same distance apart as the AE86. 6. All other mounts are in slightly different in positions (by angle & placement). 7. 4-link mount bolt hole diameters are different: MA46/MA47 = 14mm AE86 = 12mm 8. Overall axle flange/wheel mounting face length (difference of approx 12mm): MA46/MA47 = 1404mm or 55 9/32" (approx.) AE86 = 1392mm or 54 25/32" (approx.) I sourced the info from: http://www.aeu86.org/index/axle-amp-differential-celica-supra-(ma45-46-47)-diff-swap-amp-info_/cat/9/topic=5762/post=92692

Finally found someone to mill the injector ports. Just need to do a bit of work to clearance them for the injector grommets. Received my Megasquirt-III (3.0) w/ MS3X board and the MS3 and MS3X wiring harnesses. It's completely assembled and I've been doing preliminary tests with the Jimstim. Just need to get the companion stim for the MS3X board. Plan is to use the CA's CAS, we'll see how that goes. I have an entire EDIS setup if I need it. (I'll get some images of the MS unit once I have the chance. Posts are useless without images. Should be placing an order for the rear axles soon. Then we'll be onto rear wheels and tires.

The flares will fit nicely over those quick disconnect pieces too, no problem. Now the bumper is completely supported. I still need to support the lower side edges of the bumper to take the flexibility out of the entire setup: Here are some photos of the rear diff components I have so far. With the customizing to the housing I would say I have about $600 in the rear differential so far. From left to right: -Ford Racing Carbon Fiber LSD Clutch pack with new spring clip. -ARP Carrier Bearing Studs -ARP Ring Gear Bolts -Timken Axle Wheel Bearings -Ford Trak-Loc LSD differential -Jegs differential rebuild kit -Close up of the factory LSD -Motive Gear Performace Series 4.88 Ring and Pinion -Some shots of the rear diff as it sits right now...in need of a good cleaning and a coat of paint

-I started mocking up the flares. I really don't want to cut up my fenders until I absolutely have to. I spent a lot of time on hammering my own stock flares I really can't bring myself to cut them up until I know exactly how I'm going to execute things. -I mocked up the blacktop itbs on the adapter. The 1" adapter flange is at Noribilt right now getting machined out. Once I get it, all I'll have to do is finish both pieces with a die grinder/dremel. I would say I'm 85% there now. I think it looks damn good. Here is the fastener I made for the front portion of the bumper (rondell bar fastener): I also started working on setting the fenders up to run the flares. I cut a small portion of the bumper out to try to smooth out the arc of the flares. I also cut a large chunk out of the flare I hammered into the stock fender arches:

Here are some of the pics. You can see from the inboard photo that there is a lot of clearance on the inside of the fender well. I just need to remove the fender and start working the wheel rearward while modifying the body as needed. Well, not too much to report. I haven't really sat out and worked on the rolla in a while. I did try some things on the wheel fitment front. I removed the 1/4" wheel spacer on the driver-side to see what effect that had. It brought the tire under the fender much better...to the point where I'm not too concerned with modifying the fenders any more. I still have tons of clearance between the tire/wheel and the suspension. I also started pulling some caster out. Took a sledghammer to make a bit more room, but I won't be able to get the space I want until I remove the suspension so I can really hammer the fender well. Before: After: When I had the wheel spacer on, I had the camber plate maxed out and the fender was still resting on the tire. With the spacer removed I've been able to take some camber out of the suspension and the makes me feel a bit better: I still have room to pull some negative camber out if I want, or to add some if I feel it necessary. I still want to pull some of the caster out of the driver-side, but that means some hammering first. Updates: -Front bumper is mounted...at least in the front. I manufactured a pretty sturdy mount out of some threaded rods, thin plates, washers, and nuts. The sides are still loose, but I have a couple ideas on how to support them. I just have to decide on either a combination of them or which one would work best.

I've been talking with the guys in the weld shop at work. They had someone dump a bunch of stainless steel containers that used to hold chemicals for working on the planes. They asked if I could use any of them for personal use: Fuel Cell Surge Tank They're going to start work on them this week. The fuel cell will be right around 15 gallons...maybe a touch under, and the surge tank should hold another 5 gallons (maybe a bit more after I have it reshaped to drain to the engine feed fitting. I'm hoping the machine shop can get my ITB manifold finished too. They've been busy machining parts for the aircraft so my part had to be put on hold. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

15x10 -38 195/50/15

Nothing recent. The heat in San Antonio has been horrible. My garage has a west facing door, so working on the car at 4-6PM in 105-110* heat hasn't been working. Currently I've been working on getting the rear axles ordered so I can get the diff built and the rear wheels ordered. I think I'd have a more flexible work space if I could get the car on wheel dollies. Plus I can finish the brake system with lines and rear calipers and be able to pull the car in and out of the garage if needed.

Finally picked up some new shoes for the front. Now I can start working on the rear axle. I guess the next purchase will be a set of axle shafts for the 8.8 so I can start working on getting the rear wheels and tires. Not at full lock, but I seem to have quite a bit of space to spare. Should be more work on the fenders than anything else.

Thanks. I'm really stoked that things came out as neatly as they have.

I had the bore milled close to the Silvertop ITB bore. It's actually a little undersized. I planned on using the BT ITBs from the get go, but the ST bore was easier to design. The BT bore will solve any alignment issues that are present.

Well, I've been nervous about actually sizing it up against the head. I've only been able to test fitment by printing my workflow images from AutoCad/Inventor. Seems everything is going to be okay though: It's not seated completely against the head in the images. I need to clearance the bolt holes a tad bit. Good thing is that all the cylinder ports and the coolant passage line up as I intended them to.

From: To: The machine shop still has a couple hours of machining to do on it to clean up the edges and they said they're going to polish it up. They still have to match the taper on the ITB bores as well. The figure '8' piece on the head flange had to be redesigned due to restrictions caused by the type of CNC machine they have. They're going to make a 1/2"-3/4" thick spacer flange that will have those curves included.

I also took the time to weld up the three small holes on the fender. I may have to do some small welds to fill in some pin holes that remain, but for now they're semi-fixed.