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heyman421

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  • Location
    Yokohama, Japan
  • Cars
    Oscar Mayer Weiner

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  1. Well, I'm embarrassed to have to tell you guys this, but I figured out my problem today. The collector was, in fact, hitting the torsion bar. The reason, however, was because the #1 cylinder primary was hitting the motor mount clamshell. I ended up 're-engineering' the pipe with a hammer about 1/8" and now it fits fine. I'm still not impressed with how unnecessarily tight the clearances of the header are in a few spots, or the way the included pipes are routed, but at least I can get back on the road. Thanks again for all of your help, anyways. I probably would have just lit the truck on fire, had I not had somewhere to vent my frustration.
  2. I just realized how dumb this question was. I don't even know what a motor mount looks like, but i can see the drivers side one in the second picture i posted. Is that a legit mount 'cushion-y-thing?' That looks suspiciously not unlike the PO replaced a dried mount with some random piece of poly. If that's thicker than it's supposed to be, that could be my problem right there. Anyways, I'll take a look at the passenger side in the morning. I've decided i may as well enjoy my evening at this point.
  3. Good lord, nothing ever goes right with this truck. Thanks to everyone for your help, unfortunately I've been stuck at a family gathering with a dead cell phone battery so i couldn't get back to update. datzenmike, you're correct in that the outlet needs to move towards the engine (passenger side) about 1/2 an inch or so, but radim's probably right about it being a broken or worn mount. I've just recently been hearing a 'knock' immediately after coming to a complete stop, and a broken mount sounds about right... I'm now completely out of my element, and i've unfortunately spent all my money repairing a blown headgasket with just enough left to fix the oil leak. Is there an easy way to diagnose a broken motor mount? It would likely be on the passenger side, since it's raising the header towards the torsion bar. Are they easy to access, at least? I likely don't possess the know-how to fix it myself, I'm just curious how big of an undertaking it's going to be to have someone fix it ...
  4. Sorry about that, mentioning 4wd in my original post sounded more like "i know it's difficult to install headers on a 4wd, but i didn't expect problems on a 2wd" in my head. My truck is a 2wd, and i can even read the 2wd part number in my 2nd picture (1112) , so i'm 100% sure i received the right part.
  5. EDIT: My truck is 2wd. Sorry for the confusion. What am i doing wrong, here, i'm having a heck of a time getting this thing on my truck. I've verified that i ordered and received the correct header for 2wd (part #xxx2 and not #xxx3) If you guys could help me out and tell me what i've done wrong, i'd greatly appreciate it! Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us The torsion bar is RIGHT in the middle of where the pipe needs to go. It's close enough that all 8 bolts line up with the head, but just enough in the way so that it wont sit flush.... :( Could this have something to do with the particular ride height of my truck? Would raising or lowering it move the torsion bar out of my way? I cut the EGR pipe to get the old manifold off, so there's no turning back at this point. I have an appointment tomorrow to get an oil leak diagnosed & fixed, and i can't very well take it there without an exhaust. WORST EASTER EVER!
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