BOZO

The Centerline Autodrags are almost as timeless as the Cragar SS. I have been on a casual search for a set ever since I bought my truck. One good thing about Autodrags is they are about as light as anything you can buy (cheaply), and lighter is better handling. I have a set of aluminum wheels on my truck that are similar to Autodrags but they have angled slots and they are lighter than my stock wheels.

If you try to use the thinner bearing you will not be able to tighten your driveshaft all the way down. That's how I found out I had the wrong bearing. When I took the bolts back out there was an imprint of the bearing spindle in the end of the driveshaft. I had to machine a spacer.

Concerning the carrier bearing. I used to go through one about every 2 years in my 69 Chevy truck until one day I filled one of my new carrier bearings with silicon rubber and let it set up for about 3 days until it hardened. That carrier bearing has now been in the truck for 12 years. I tried this trick with my Datsun about a week ago and it runs smooth with no vibration. If you are at your wits end trying to make these bearing last, try this trick. Be sure to clean the mold release compound out the inside of the rubber cup first so the silicone will adhere. The job I done on the Datsun, I just used the leftover caulk in the caulking gun from sealing around my sink.

I been having carrier bearing replacement issues on my 74 620. I ordered what I thought was the proper replacement for the truck and the bearing width is too narrow resulting in the nut not tightening down on everything properly and the threaded end of the shaft protruding too far out to tighten down the mating driveshaft yoke. I took the carrier bearing out of a 77 I have and the width is (approx.).945 (which would solve my problems). My new bearing is only (approx.) .658. Some sources show a different bearing for 73/74 compared to a 77. Other sources say all are the same from 72 to 79. Has anybody run into this issue before?

Just so everyone will know. I done this conversion on my truck and I love it but, the led light that I put in the charging/alternator position would not allow my alternator to charge. I have the Saturn alternator in my truck and it appears the led light bulb does not have enough resistance ( at least in my truck ) to excite the alternator. After installing it my truck would not charge. It still would not charge after turning it around, but after putting my original bulb back in it worked just fine. Just passing along this info just in case somebody else runs into this problem.

Could be an unvented gas tank. Maybe try feeding your gas from a separate container. Or even just temporarily removing the filler cap just to test.

That module MAY be an overspeed indicator. There was one of those on a speedo I bought out of Canada. Lights up a light when you go too fast. Unused in my dash now because I don't have the corresponding light.

The Z-Store has a set of studs and nuts for $31. I can't remember where I got my stud set, but they even came with Allen wrench holes in the end for screwing them in. Used the studs for all my intake/exhaust clamping and had some left over. They worked excellent. You can put a bit more torque on them when you aren't afraid of stripping out the aluminum threads.

It wasn't too hard to get used to but when my exhaust installer went to put it on the rack, he crawled out of the truck and said "YOU drive it up on the rack". I was tired of the stock clutchs which never seemed to live up to my expectations so I bought this one. It has done all I expected and more.

Thought I would post this about my original problem which I finally solved. I dealt with the slipping problem by bleeding off the pressure occasionally because I knew I was going to put all new running gear in my truck pretty soon. Well, this spring I put a totally rebuilt L20b and another 5 speed in my truck. Some of the things I replaced was another clutch master cylinder and a hydraulic rubber flex line to the new clutch slave cylinder. Since then there has been no problem with the clutch. So I checked out my old flex line and it would barely pass fluid through it! It had broken down on the inside and was quite restrictive. I think the problem was in the master cylinder and the flex line. My new clutch is a Exedy Stage 1 Sport clutch and be forewarned it is stout. I am not complaining, but it takes much more effort to push in. But it does NOT slip. I posted this because it seems some people never come back to post their solutions and it leaves other people wondering how the problem got solved.

Nevermind about my question about the pipe, Klotz just sent me a schematic of the flange which answered my question.

Thinking about it, it may be better like you said to run 2 pipes down under the truck and then join them under the cab with a merge collector. That would solve the problem of whether or not the Columbia River collectors would fit. Does a 1.5" pipe fit inside Klotz's flange?

Well, I have read on here that people have used Mr. Klotz's down pipe flanges and the Columbia River merge collectors together. I was just trying to come up with something to make my exhaust installers work go quicker as he charges by the hour. I think buying one premade (approx.$45) would be cheaper than having him make one. I intend to have a new 2" system to the back. I would be doing it myself but the recent installation of a defibrillator in my chest ended my welding abilities. Firing up a welder could end up in getting kicked in the chest like a mule. Columbia River has a merge collector that is twin 1.5" inlets and a 1.75" outlet. I think that is the one I need, I was just concerned about the spacing of the twin inlets.

I have bought one of blue hands 4 cylinder L series down pipe flanges and I intend to purchase one of Columbia River Mandrel Bending Companies 2-1 merge collectors but don't know which one to order. I am running an L18 exhaust manifold on an L20b in a 1974 620. I intend to run a 2" exhaust system. CRMB website offers many different options and I want to get the right one the first time. I know that I want a 2" outlet but I am not sure of the inlet sizes (1.5"?) And is the spacing correct? Does anybody know either the proper part number or the right sizes to accomplish my goal?

I wish I had measured across the bolt holes on my 74 kingpin frame and compared it to the 78 ballpoint frame to see if there is a difference while I had the motor out of the 74. But hindsight is 20/20. If there is a difference it might help to solve future problems juggling motor mounts. I also wish I had checked to see if there was a width difference between the L18 and L20b, but I was just busy trying to get my truck back on the road.