jwerty1

I wish I did. Just kinda wondering,I've not seen mention of an h190 lsd before this thread but a quick web search confirms it. Wondering if it would be worth extra modding of the h233 if I could just find an h190 lsd.

So, I know I'm beating a dead thread here. The 4 cylinder locking h190, is it possible that I could just transplant the third member into my 620 with minimal mods? I have know idea if the axle splines would be right, and I'm thinking the driveshaft mating flange could be different. .

So, this is a dead topic I know.... I have not done measurements, or weight calculations... Im wondering what the OP decided to do with his acquisition. I recently came across a vk56 that I may be able to bring home, for free. It is a 40K 2011 motor that was misused from the original owner. It burned oil and was a lil slugded up. I figure a good cleaning and valve seals it'll be fine. It runs just fine. Anyhow, since I may be able to bring this beast home for free I started searching for stuff on ratsun about VK's and found this thread. I think a vk would kick a** if given the proper installation with supporting mods....

It's a z reman, no it's not marked Mhub, I did adjust the pushrod as per the service manual. After I drove it and came back, both the discs and drums were hot to touch(I was trying some all out stops) so they were definitely all getting used

The front is on the front and rear is on the rear now. I know it's backwards, but it works, kinda like me

Nevermind, I switched the front circuit to the rear and vice versa. Stops like crazy now!!!! Threw my passenger seat back the whole way forward. This truck has never stopped so quickly

It's a hydraulic c clamp, not that difficult.

No

Not sure on that one, just installed a reman booster yesterday. Not quite the same symptom, the rears will lock up, but I have to stand on the pedal, light braking is pretty bad, but it's tons better than it has been, without the booster

I apologize, just to add, I haven't gotten one bubble the last two times I bled the system, so it should definitely be bled. Also, can I switch the front and rear circuits on the master?

So, I have a 74 620, no nlsv as I've read. I made my own front brake conversion with silverado rotors that I machined the center bore on and 12 Altima front calipers. Upgraded to a 7/8 master from a z, just installed a new booster as mine developed a leak. Have bled the brakes several times. My brakes suck, at best. Before the new master they were really bad, then they got a touch better, but I had to stand on the pedal for anything. With the booster I thought my issue would be solved figuring the rock hard pedal was due to no power assist. Well, I can tell the assist is there but the brakes are still pretty marginal. Today after a little ride I felt the front rotors and they were cool to the touch. The rear drums were hot! Yes they are adjusted ok, just checked at work earlier today. Seems weird to me that when bleeding the rear, whether at the master or at the wheel cylinders I get a lot of fluid when I crack the bleeders, for the front the fluid doesn't come out nearly as fast and furious. I was thinking maybe the front and rear were switched on the master, (front should be rear circuit on master, correct?) seems to me it should push more fluid to the front than the rear. Also, the rears definitely aren't dragging, but when I stomp the pedal the rear will lock up pretty easily. Please help

Interesting

Oh yeah, fuel slosh hasn't been an issue and the level sender is still as correct as it has ever been

If you're not gonna be tracking the car... I bought a replacement in line electric pump(don't remember for what) for around $30 on ebay, made my own brackets and mounted it to the frame rail on my 620 lower than the tank. It easily puts out 50 psi, I just have it regulated down because of being carb'd still. I just got some high pressure rubber lines and also some brake lines and made my own return system straight to the fuel filler neck. Pretty ratsun style if you ask me, but I spent less than $100 for a fuel system.

U wanna do it? Go for it, when you give up, ship the car to me and I'll put my extra l18 in it