Digi7al Trauma

Technically, transmissions are rated for a torque figure. Mike, if im wrong just correct me, but iirc the FS5W71B is rated for 215ft/lbs, but there are a few people running more than that on theirs with no current issues. Oh no he didn't! jkjk. ^^^^ +1 Farmer Joe

There have been days I swore the search function was nothing more than one of skib's dreams. Like seriously, look through the forum and tell me the search function is real. Thread;"How many doors does my car have?" "What is this thinggy" *pic with arrow pointed to a wheel*... and then the "what about this xyz25006 engine swap with quad turbo lazer inductors and 10000bhp, cheap? " *edit* forgot to answer... search is working fine for me

clogged line/filter as Osoi stated. Or bad pump... check the easier parts first

First, your question has allready been answered in the comments of the video you linked... and in the sentence you got the part number from, no less^^^^^Also comp cams does sell cams for this motor as well. Secondly... want to point out that you want a camshaft that sounds like this.... are you going to run the same exhaust, manifold/header?I know you aren't planning on running the same carb as the weber 38 outlaw on the truck in the video. So ill just say, your truck may sound far different than this one even if you happen to use the same parts. Mine is not to judge, but there will be more work than just swapping cams... id suggest you read about the nissan anti performance z24 engine to see if this is really worth it for you. Here is a freebie search to get you started http://community.ratsun.net/topic/12503-z24i-infoperformance/ http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71102-napz-engine/?do=findComment&comment=1449195

I like metal, and dislike folk music. My neighbor blasts "All things considered" and loves folk music.... my point is "sounds better" is VERY subjective, and also HIGHLY dependant on supporting mods (exhaust, cam, dished or domed pistons). As for "better pull" you will get mostly subjective answers sans dyno tickets. These motors (stock) aren't really massive power makers, so a total or 2mm of carb difference may be semantics. Plus its not like you cant rejet either one. From experience, tuning maters more than those 2 mm, so choose the one you feel is easier/better for you to tune, upkeep, afford, or find first.

hood pins. jkjk. Btw search is your friend. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/67752-620-hood-alignment-and-latch-problems-unexplained/?hl=%2Bhood+%2Blatch+%2Badjustment This thread may not answer every question you have in detail, but searching and learning is important.

Got it. And yeah i get the point you made, why worry about the frame if the motor is shot as well? I have some ideas on the frame (yeah these are longshots but bear with me) 1- find and mod another datsun frame 2-build your own tube frame (this one is the biggest long shot, expensive and time consuming) 3- Buy a donor vehicle: eg bronco, blazer, s10, ranger. and bodyswap (still a bit out there, but can be done) edit: i just remembered you said you wanted to stay original when it comes to the frame, so my post is for the most part a waste of space. But ill see if i can fill in other stuff. 1. If it's a 4 speed manual, then why no rpm gauge? -Kind of common. There are a good number of vehicles during and before this time with no tach. "just shift by ear" or "by feel". You could always throw on an aftermarket tach... but some look TACKY... sorry.. 2. Do any of the features listed above give away it's history or modification timeline? -Its not stock, and no... dana 44's have been around since the 50's. Datzenmike already touched on this. 3. Frame is broken on both sides as it a raises towards engine... maybe pinch weld area. Where do I begin to look for replacement frames? I know I want to stay in the same year/family. Limited welding experience. Excellent in the bolt on department. -Even if you find a frame, it wont be "bolt on". Welding/cutting will need to be done for thetransaxle, front suspension, and maybe some body mounts... once again, the kingrat has that info. 4. Any links to threads about initial engine startup to do list prior to starting up something that has been sitting so long? -Check/replace fluids, check spark, clean points or get new dizzy rotor and cap, fresh fuel, new filters, make sure the webers bowls are filled/primed, check battery voltage. Could go futher like devarnishing the fuel tank ect... but its up to you how in depth you go, 5. Any links to threads about initial turn over of carburetor, radiator, electrical, transmission prior to first start? -Huh? like... how to check to see if these work or in serviceable shape? ah well shit,looks like 90% of my post is just wasted space.

*reading though thread and slams into rust pictures* Mother of dog.... screw the lack of a tach (my 79 didnt even come with one either), gas tank? who cares? forget the wire hanging from the carb,.. because you will have some wires to disconnect here in a bit when you do SOMETHING with that frame. I mean am I just being cynical or should we worry about replacing that frame before worrying about a wire? Ill be over here chewing on my fingernails while following this. And looking for frames in the Washington dc area. Oh and welcome to rustson...i mean ratsun

Stick with the A series, it may not be AMAZE-balls, but it will work... for cheap... and wont eat all your money, and you wont be eating ramen. Ka24- Wires.... TONS of wires... plus brakes and suspension mods, plus fuel system mods, plus a crap load of wires.... rotary- not the most reliable, good luck finding rotors or housings that are in decent shape, i have a rotory in an mg midget and decent parts are getting scarce, add in apex seals, expect to rebuild any you buy... once again, brake mods will be needed. l20b- Meh... i see no real down side, i would consider working some better brakes into the car possibly... and depending on your skill, it wont be impossible but it will take time (which a dd cant afford to be down for) Tbh, willz hit the nail on the head, any of these swaps will need more... and that is on top of sorting out the vehicle's systems other than the motor. (electrical, wiring, fule/brake/water lines, diff fluid,broken and worn parts, ect)

I Know Right! thats what im fkin talking about there kaoss.... you get a +1 for saying it before i could Onto brass tacks! No one here is a lawyer, so stop giving legal advice. But the ACTUAL professional artists that's cool, inform him of what they know, as an artist and not an interwebz lawyer that grad-e-a-tud form the school of no one gives a fk.... and so far i have noticed a few people claiming highly incorrect things about laws and intellectual property (I have gone to court over having my int. prop. copied, but i'm not a lawyer so my OPINION of what the law states is just that an opinion and will stay to myself). And lastly.... stop arguing.... go fking work on your dattos, drink a beer, eat a steak, get laid and chiiiiiilllll the fk out peeps...

....trust me it would be awesome to be in Seattle with all the datto parts nearby