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revolt510

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About revolt510

  • Birthday 03/23/1972

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle
  • Cars
    '72 510 2dr

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  1. Does anyone have a picture for how they routed their heater control cables down the side of the heater assembly?
  2. cool, thanks for the help. I pulled the stock datsun harness caused when I got the car the harness had been hacked to sh*t with alarm system, a switch for a radiator fan and other stuff that was just in there and hanging behind the dash. A few of the light connectors the wires had kinks where the insulation cracked etc. Basically its 40 year old wire that's seen 40 years of use - same reason people re-wire the house. I do it myself then if something goes wrong its only my cruddy work to troubleshoot! thanks again.
  3. Hey all, Hoping someone can save me some time and headache and hope my description isn't too confusing - its making me dizzy! If you've installed an EZ wiring harness into your 510, I have a question about how the ignition switch is wired up and then what's the connections to the starter, coil and ballast resistor? EZ wire doesn't provide a schematic for their fuse block and all the diagrams are US motors. I should note I pulled this harness from another project and could be missing a wire that's not connected to the fuse panel. I have an L16 with MSD coil, electronic dizzy from datsun parts LLC and - they told me to keep the ballast resistor. I have an internally regulated alternator, so external voltage regulator is gone. Datsun stock wiring you have direct from the switch the black/white and black/black connecting to either side of the ballast resistor and the black/blue connection going to coil positive. This doesn't really jive with the EZ harness wiring coming from the panel, so hoping someone can give me some clarity? Into the engine bay I have from the EZ harness: Coil Pos (pink) ---> ? to coil positve (+) but not sure how this goes with the ballast resistor? Tach (purple) --> coil negative IGN START (purple) ---> I'm connecting direct to datsun black/yellow on the switch (see below) the dizzy 'T' connection: 'I' bottom connection goes to coil + '-' top connection goes to coil - On the 510 Ignition switch: From the EZ harness I have IGN SW COIL (pink) and IGN SWITCH IGN (brown) that I'm not sure how to wire. 1 - Battery Input, Datsun white/red wire ----> I've connected to EZ IGN SWITCH Power (red) 2 - Battery input from fuse (ON), Datsun black/white ----> I'm not sure ?? IGN SW IGN (brown)? 3 - Starter Out, Datsun Black/yellow ----> I'm connecting EZ IGN START (purple) 4 - ACC/ON, Datsun blue/black ----> I'm connecting EZ IGN SWITCH ACC (orange) - connect brown IGN SW ACC here too? 5 - IGN out, Datsun black/blue ----> ??? IGN SW COIL (pink)? this goes thru a fuse and becomes Coil Pos (pink) do I take this to the coil positive terminal, connect one end of resistor and the other end of the resistor go back to where? any help appreciated.
  4. awesome, thanks for the replies!
  5. Anyone in the seattle area have a 2 door sedan with the panels and would also be willing to let me come by and trace them? Please PM if so. If not, can someone post the thickness of the core material? 3/16", 1/8" ?? thanks
  6. I have a new mechanical fuel pump I don't need. Ad posted to Seattle craigslist. no problem shipping it if anyone needs it. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/2806266339.html
  7. Looking for bumper mounts front and rear for my '72 510 sedan.
  8. cool, thanks for all the feed back. They didn't match what is shown in Haynes, so I figured they weren't stock. thanks for the help. Ryan
  9. I don't follow your question. I have a clymer manual, haynes manual, and L-series engine rebuild manual, none of them mention a gasket between the pump and block - only a gasket for rebuilding the pump. Rockauto doesn't list that gasket. I purchased a complete engine gasket kit a while back, which doesn't list a mounting gasket on the box. I haven't removed the pump from the engine yet, so it runs right now with it 180 out. So the next step was to ask the guys who've worked on these motors more - aka ratsun. So now I went to NAPA with the part number that was given and they can't find it at all in their database. Next step - if I want is to remove it and make a gasket. Or just leave it like others have suggested, which is now the way I'm leaning. <_< thanks for that input though, very useful.
  10. But "I" know the difference! I bought my 510 and the engine had been newly rebuilt, so I got an elec. dizzy, thru it in and couldn't get her going. Realized its 180 out. I know my thinking isn't completely rational, but being particular the #1 piston should be the #1 piston. Won't take long to do anyway..
  11. I'm an engineer by profession - my ego screams that its a half-ass job, so I can't rest until I put it right. :D
  12. The timing gear on the oil pump of my L16 was installed so my timing is 180 out (basically #4 acts as #1 piston). I like things to be right so I want to pull the pump and correct it. The only mention of a gasket I can find is the one internal to the pump if you disassemble it. Is there a gasket between the pump and block I need to get? thanks
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