This is what came up for me when I did a search for 1973 Datsun sockets, I forget what search engine I used.
It seems that the 5/8" sockets are a common part part for many old cars.
These "Mopar" 5/8" sockets have worked out perfect for me. Just remember to look REAL close for excess plastic flash. If you don't trim this with an exacto knife it can be a bit of a bear to remove the socket.
I did my drawing (see earlier post) of the sockets I received so anyone can compare these sockets to what you have.
If anyone has experience with LED (wedge base) replacements for filament 194 (wedge base), let me know what your experience was.
But before I get to that, there are a few more little electrical mysteries. Please see the photo of the back of the instrument cluster, the items with the pink circles. I have no loose wires. Is something supposed be plugged in?
I was thinking of using wedge base LED lights in the sockets identified by bits of blue tape; anyone have any comments about this?
And then in the photo from the steering wheel side, there is a two-wired bulb in a simple plastic push-in mount. This is not a push-in and twist device. The bulb turns on whenever the headlights are turned on. Beats me what this bulb is supposed to illuminate.
Now the FOUND IT:
Awhile back I asked about where to find the sockets (several were disintegrated). Auto parts places, even Datsun parts places didn’t know where to get the sockets. Well, the sockets are not rare, they are a part common on older US cars. Here is the eBay site I bought from: retromotive (29661) on eBay.
I only bought five because I didn’t know if they would fit. They fit perfectly. I am going to replace the remaining five old ones. Just a little word of caution, some of the ones I received had a teeny bit of residual plastic flash from molding. If you don’t trim this, it can make it very hard to remove the socket if you ever need to remove the socket because the untrimmed plastic tends to wedge the socket too firmly in the circuit board.
I have included photos and a drawing I did of the socket shape with the relevant dimensions.
Posted by 610StaWag
on 15 September 2017 - 08:07 PM
I used my digital caliper to compare the Superbright socket 704/962 sizes with a socket from the 610 and I find all my sizes were bigger. My max dia is 20.08 and Superbright has theirs at 18.42. So I checked some pennies, officially at 19.05 and my caliper said 19.04.
I buy stuff from Super bright, I will check with them about the dimensions.
Thank you flatcat19.
And thank you datzenmike, great to get those numbers. I will post an ad.
Posted by 610StaWag
on 15 September 2017 - 04:23 PM
I am having a bit of difficulty finding an insert and twist socket like the one in my 1973 Datsun. I was told, by auto parts stores, “194” only refers to the bulb. I have done an internet search for “L194”, but I find no sockets. There is a “L194” but this is a round pill. I have found a “T10 194” but this was a bulb and socket said to be for Fords.
On Amazon & eBay I did find a lot of sockets, I saw three types of socket bases, none matched the ones in my 1973 Datsun.
Posted by 610StaWag
on 14 September 2017 - 05:40 PM
Thank you for responding but I am not looking for bulbs, I am looking for a source for the black plastic (insert & twist) dash illumination fittings. Do other Datsuns have the same part? Is there a source for them?
I was a bit perplexed when one line of a circuit was not conducting. I took out the fuse and it checked ok. I checked power to the fuse/fuse block, it was good. I put the fuse back in and I put a probe to each of the fuse holder ends and there was power. I took the fuse out again to closely look at it, I put it back in. No power/current. I rotated the fuse in the holder and found that sometimes there was and sometimes there wasn’t current. On close examination I saw the fuse holders all looked dirty and corroded. I tried simply cleaning with a q-tip and alcohol. That was not effective. The result was the same with steel wool (plus there was the danger of stray bits if steel wool fiber debris causing shorts. I tried 600 grit sandpaper, but that took a huge amount of time and effort to be effective. Then I came up with a very quick, easy and effective way to clean the fuse holders using a Dremel with a wire brush tip (which wore out rather quickly). In case there is severe corrosion or rust, you could try delicately using a tiny grinding tip. Maybe this is well known, but in case there are others like me that didn’t know of this, here it is:(photo shows almost all the fuse holders cleaned).
Where did you get the headliner material? I have not been able to find a match for our 1973 610 wagon, closest I could find is a TIER 1407A. But it isn't completely smooth, it has a tiny textured pattern.
Dorsett makes a wide range of carpet, in our case, the DOR610-Brown loop is really close. I really laughed when I saw the ID was "610 Brown"!
I have not been able to find any seat vinyl that matches our brown patterned seat center panels. SMS, a major auto fabric supplier (I think they are in Seattle) does have a slightly similar material. But it doesn't match, so we would have to recover ALL the seat center panels. And then it wouldn't be authentic. SMS says they can match almost any color.
I am starting to think I will have to make a mold of the unique center panel material and figure out how to make replicas. Maybe making silicone molds (I have experience here) and then casting to make thin patterned material to bond to vinyl. Hey Ratsun folks, is there a business that does this? I only need enough for the two front seat bottoms.
Here are my stickers now. Please let me know what you think about them. One small part I am unsure about; on the INERTIA sticker, at the lower left side it looked like: "14808 U2010". But it was so hard to read I wasn't sure I read it correctly.
I use vector art programs. It is simple to create the art, just a bit time consuming. I plan to get black printouts on clear adhesive stock, then I will attach this to some special silver foil stock I have been saving. The I will laminate thin clear plastic onto this for protection. I have used clear plastic sprays in the past, but I have found that in time the sprayed plastic coating develops multitudes of cracks due to even limited UV exposure.
If the person that has the business making replica stickers is interested, I like doing this kind of art work and I could help out if your interested.
Because the old stickers (on our 1973 Datsun 610 station wagon) are so badly worn, I am about to make new foil backed replicas. There are parts of the old stickers that are worn and blurred. Please let me know if I have anything incorrect. Thanks.
Posted by 610StaWag
on 19 November 2016 - 07:03 PM
Yep, rivet holes. I have had the bits as short as possible in the chuck. I also have used different bit points (tiny steel cutters and also diamond tip bits) in a Dremel to make a starting point. I have been very disappointed in bits at general retail stores I have used common bits, but I find they just don't cut aggressively.. I was really spoiled by the great tool at a machine tool company I worked for many years ago.
Do you mean HSS as High Speed Steel? Or as a brand name? I have seen online ads that mention HSS as a brand name. Is there a retailer with stores?