610StaWag

I did not "restore it to make money" (I think that concept is an oxymoron). I am now elderly and I would like my wife to have some idea of the worth of the car (she bought it in 1983) if something happens to me.

Finished the restoration work now. If this were your car, what price would you sell it for? 1973 Datsun 610 station wagon1 by Donald Broz, on Flickr 1973 Datsun 610 station wagon2 by Donald Broz, on Flickr

I have tried the vise/clamp/press/zip ties procedure. I actually lived, unharmed, in my three (unsuccessful) attempts to get this to work.

OK folks, I will try again. I know of spring compressors being used on large USA cars and trucks, but what about a Datsun 610? Has anyone used the OEM#25336 or STECK#21910 door spring compressors? Are they small enough to use on a Datsun sedan? Which is the best?

OK, got it. I was unsure about removing the socket. It did not appear to be the usual push /twist socket. I took a chance and the socket was a simple plug in, plug out. I put in a 9 LED Pilot brand LED. That really helped with the knob illumination. I am a bit concerned with excessive heat. I had previously bought LEDs from Superbrights. Those LEDs got too hot for me so I switched to Pilot. I have had another nine LED plugged directly into the terminals of the battery (and inside a closed clear case) for over an hour and the "bulb" is definitely warm but it is not at all hot.Does anyone out there have experience with using an LED as the light source for illuminated knobs?

Since the car is apart I thought I might replace the bulb that I assume is in the box that provides light for the fiber optics to the dash knobs. Has any one put an LED "bulb" in to replace the stock rather dim bulb? I have not been able to find instructions on how to access the light source bulb. I did try several Ratsun searches using as many terms as I could think of. I had no luck. Does anyone know how the get to the fiber optics light source? I did replace several of the dash lights with LED bulbs and that did improve the illumination to the gauges.

Thanks, Yes. The rubber piece slips off. I will be able to [wrap around and] glue the front edge of the headliner to the sheet metal part and then slide on the the rubber piece.on. What did you mean by: ".use that strip across the back to evenly pull the headliner taught.." ?

I apologize. No problem here. I see that the headliner wraps over the curved metal piece. The screws are hidden under the headliner. So simple, I get it now.

Thanks datzenmike. I just looked at the car again and I see what you mean about the piece being put in under the windshield. On closer inspection, I noticed that, yes, that piece should have been put between the body and the windshield and it wasn't. So I'll just have to make do; I'm not in a position to afford to replace the windshield. What are my alternative choices to attach that curved piece with the seven holes?

Yes, I have the bows. Both bows and holes were numbered per Ratsun advice. The car appears 100% stock with unaltered/replaced windshield. The head liner was glued to the underside of the curved metal piece. Most important to me now is that I need to know how to attach the curved metal piece that has the seven holes. I could make a trim piece to cover screws (?), bolts (?), other (?). It seemed to me that starting in front made sense. Thanks for the second.

Headliner re-install questions I am putting the headliner back in. I lost the baggie that I had put the fittings into. I do not find I have any screws or bolts that appear to fit correctly. To take this photo, I have temporarily held the top cross piece in place with partially screwed in crude over sized screws. Question #1 , What type and size of attachment fittings go here (the red arrows above)? Question #2, I don’t have a photo I took before I took the headliner out and I am a bit perplexed as to the re-assembly. From the glue marks on the metal I assume the headliner edge glues to this crosspiece AND this crosspiece then goes on top of the headliner. I just don’t remember what this looked like. Is this metal edge supposed to show? Is there an interior appearance trim piece that is supposed to cover this piece? Or are the exposed heads of the attachment fittings supposed to show? Question #3, Is it best to re-install the headliner at the front windshield first and then work back to the rear? Headliner question - 1 by Donald Broz, on Flickr

I own a 1973 Datsun 610 station wagon (that was actually made in late 1972). Please see the photo below. All three sensors have almost the same dimensions (miniscule difference) but only the original sensor, that is now defective, actually fits into the threaded hole of the engine block. Does anyone know of a place to get a sensor that will fit into the engine block hole and if so, what the model number of that sensor is? I was told on two separate occasions that the replacement sensors I purchased would fit, but they don't. The original sensor barely fits; it is almost too big to go in the hole. Oil sensor switch by Donald Broz, on Flickr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-5-8-Dash-Bulb-Sockets-For-194-Bulbs-5-Pack-5-/132339221719 This is what came up for me when I did a search for 1973 Datsun sockets, I forget what search engine I used. It seems that the 5/8" sockets are a common part part for many old cars. These "Mopar" 5/8" sockets have worked out perfect for me. Just remember to look REAL close for excess plastic flash. If you don't trim this with an exacto knife it can be a bit of a bear to remove the socket. I did my drawing (see earlier post) of the sockets I received so anyone can compare these sockets to what you have. If anyone has experience with LED (wedge base) replacements for filament 194 (wedge base), let me know what your experience was.

To both of you ... thank you, thank you, thank you.

Found it! But before I get to that, there are a few more little electrical mysteries. Please see the photo of the back of the instrument cluster, the items with the pink circles. I have no loose wires. Is something supposed be plugged in? I was thinking of using wedge base LED lights in the sockets identified by bits of blue tape; anyone have any comments about this? And then in the photo from the steering wheel side, there is a two-wired bulb in a simple plastic push-in mount. This is not a push-in and twist device. The bulb turns on whenever the headlights are turned on. Beats me what this bulb is supposed to illuminate. Now the FOUND IT: Awhile back I asked about where to find the sockets (several were disintegrated). Auto parts places, even Datsun parts places didn’t know where to get the sockets. Well, the sockets are not rare, they are a part common on older US cars. Here is the eBay site I bought from: retromotive (29661) on eBay. I only bought five because I didn’t know if they would fit. They fit perfectly. I am going to replace the remaining five old ones. Just a little word of caution, some of the ones I received had a teeny bit of residual plastic flash from molding. If you don’t trim this, it can make it very hard to remove the socket if you ever need to remove the socket because the untrimmed plastic tends to wedge the socket too firmly in the circuit board. I have included photos and a drawing I did of the socket shape with the relevant dimensions. Thanks! 194 wedge bulb socket diagram by Donald Broz, on Flickr Back of instrument panel by Donald Broz, on Flickr Unknown bulb in dash by Donald Broz, on Flickr