Kisor

That and I'd rather put the same ~$100 toward a forged setup than OE cast.

EricJB, if you buy them are you willing to sell the remainder you don't use? I have a 90mm KA block ready to go and want to do a 12:1+ E85 build. I would love to get these true flat tops and avoid having to deck my block and head to get there with SOHC pistons. PM me if interested.

Nm, link no worky...

Just got this one last night 135963478519117 Good till May 5th

Your car already has electronic ignition. The pic you posted of the inside of the dist shows a magnetic pickup.

Did this guy leave?? Don't leave dude!!!!

Double check all grounds to the ecu. Injectors receive 12v+ with ign on and the ecu provides the ground to open them. You may have a loose or incomplete ground to the ecu and it is back feeding from somewhere else. If your noid is weak there is prob a circuit issue. You can make a crude "loading test light" to test the 12v+ supply using a brake light bulb or equivalent. 7443 bulbs work good, they have pins that are easily bent out to hook to. If you are using a multimeter to see if voltage is present it won't show a high resistance if there is a problem in the circuit. loading the circuit will reveal this type of issue.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M-8wwmUYWx8/UR9JO8QAwMI/AAAAAAAAABc/jynDpk3OWks/s580/13+-+2 That looks like factory electronic ignition yo begin with. There is no advantage to the petronix. I'm on mobile so its hard to determine for sure jut put that back and don't mess with it. Lol... Edit, yea stop doing whatever you are doing and return all that mess back to factory. Please tell me the big red and black wires connected to the coil aren't running directly to the battery. :( I'm not trying to be disrespectful but please do more research about what you have before throwing parts at it. Looks like you have a California emission car that came with EI and air pump. The air pump you can lose, keep the factory ignition, its better than the petronix anyway. You may have egr also, I would leave it as it doesn't affect performance and may help with fuel mileage.

Yay Ohio.... I had to drive my B210 untill last week when I picked up a beater. Went through a couple good saltings down here though. :crying: Welcome to the Rat hole.... er Rust hole.... :thumbup:

This was just posted today: http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/3605948027.html

Interested in making some more rockers?

Remember the RB series engines have nearly identical bolt patters to the KA and L series. The RB20** used the same series transmissions too. They also tilt to the left about the same 10-15* as KA and SR. Quote from pic source: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=64635.15 "With the magic of television, I overlay them: SMT798B is KA SMT534A is RB There's the bolt on the right that the KA has that the RB doesn't, as Juls rightly pointed out, but they look pretty close. Oh well, don't know for sure. I am reminded of E series and GA series, they also differ in this way, the E has a bolt on the right that the GA doesn't, but they interchange, I have physically examined a GA bolted to an E gearbox, so I'm not relying on my eyes for that one. Regarding the L/RB thing, I thought there also was a couple of different bolts on there, but you could either lose one bolt or gain another to change, but I don't trust my memory on that one anymore." Another useful thing may be the shifter location differences in the KA/SR and RB. The RB20** trans has the shifter moved forward about 15mm.

Def aren't the same bolt pattern. And looking at pics of mounting angle, it does have a tilt to the left. Not positive on degrees but I have seen 15* quoted a few times. Looking at the oil pan it's noticeable:

I agree. There is no reason to dog the Ford 2.3, dollar for dollar it is far more capable than most of the others Skib listed.

Good general video: The 3N71B is very close in design to the Ford C4 trans, I haven't watched all 8 of this guys series but the more you watch the better.