haze

this stuff looks interesting....... http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/Automotive.asp especially after watching this video maybe an extreem clean/pressure wash/ degrease/ detail job on the underside then a sand to mostly bare metal on the the outside then coat the whole damn thing with a lplv gun, pressure pot, brush, and roller? then afterwards bondo mirrors and windsheild and finally a touch up with more of this rust stuff?

here are a few pics of my rat..... .....and here is the situation like i said she is a rat and i like her as a rat however i just moved the the california coast (about 100 yards from the beach to be exact) from austin texas and i am trying to figure out a relitively simple and affordable way to neutralize all the rust that is on her that does not involve dismantling her and sand blasting all all the pieces. i am aware that rust typically comes from the inside out but was wondering if there are any alternitives. i spent alot of time and money getting her to be mechanically sound and now i am afraid a couple of years on the coast will turn her into a red pile of dust also i have been trying to do my own leg work on this conundrum but for some reason my interweb speeds have been about as slow as molasas in december for a little over a week now

thanx danielc!!! at least one of my problems is solved!!!

i think local nissan is about 60 to 80 miles away but thats a good call none the less. just had the truck aligned yesterday with new tires and new center link and it was the mechanic that called out the kingpins while the truck was on the lift and they do wiggle. even after the center link, tires, and alignment she drives sloppy with three to four inches of play in the steering wheel and she tugs very hard to the right when i hit the brakes. i also had the shop adjust the brakes while she was up.

72 521 had them done at a machine shop in texas. i am thinking i might just need to redo the shims any advice on this? also i am in the process of moving into a new house for the third time in three years and my parts inventory is highly disorganized and i cant find any of my old shims nissan has them but they want ten bucks to ship a fifty cent part. does anybody have some extras they could throw in an envelope for the same price as the freakin part or dimensions so i could get some made local or find something comparable at my local parts stores? also as a side not i have been trying to get my truck registered with the dmv in california and i cant do it as of yet because i need a second vin that i can not find i know about the one on the drivers side door but i cant find the other one and have been told by the dmv that i have to drive 60 plus miles on funky kingpins to the nearest CHP office so that they can find it

okay i think i got it watch the mcklotz valve videos agian adjust my valves to specs check and adjust timing check compression if under 150 lbs anywhere do a leakdown test am i forgetting anything?

well if it was a green and white 72 it certainly was though i typically stay north of the river.you know after reading through this thread i realized i just need to find a compressor and give this bitch a leakdown test that would answer a whole lot of WTF's past maybe WHY i didnt think of it in the first place.

no sir booger green with a white strip and white top i live around MLK and chicon so you may have seen me around there. i took my engine to South Austin Machine Shop off of south lamar and manchaca needless to say they wont be getting anymore business or referrals from me. Rising Sun automotive was the spot i took her to for the valve adjust and needless to say i wouldn't recommend them either

my move to northern California will actually be taking me right through the L.A. area by next Thursday or Friday with my busted old pickup in tow if you wanna meet i can buy the booze

thank you i will

sounds like tracking down a spare engine would be the fastest simplest option and being i am about to live 50 miles from the nearest parts store i sure would like to have something dependable to get around in. this engine had definitely become a money pit.

i am heading out west to california from austin tx this coming monday and my #2 and #3 cylinders on my 521 have shit for compression even after a valve adjustment (75lbs in my #2 and 100lbs in my #3) the engine shakes badly and my power is garbage. this is my only vehicle and i am about to be living 50 miles from any kind of town. i really need to swap this thing out and fast with something affordable and reliable or else i will be forced to say goodbye to my little green baby. i can leave you with my old block as well if it sweetens the deal at all and you have a cherry picker not sure if this is going to work but here is a general idea of the rout i will be taking west. if you live anywhere close and are looking to part with an engine give me a holler http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=austin+tx&daddr=ukiah+ca&hl=en&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=41.546728,79.013672&geocode=FRHXzQEdK48s-ikvA8ygmbVEhjF61WnUS0abXQ%3BFVtiVQIdmf-n-CnjdQGc_mSBgDHmwE2Dl7zccw&mra=ls&t=m&z=5

basically i am feeling a bit like a patsy, i just found out yesterday my machine shop rebuild of my l16 engine was not done as pro as i once thought. my truck had a bad shake at idle and absolutely no power even going up the smallest hills i checked for a leak at the carb using carb cleaner around all the hoses, cracks, and crevices listening intently for a rpm change with no dice so i checks the tail pipe while the truck was running and felt a hamming effect on my hand from the exhaust(dead hole) so i moved on to a compression test #1-140 lbs, #2 20lbs, #3-30lbs, #4 140-lbs. so i take my baby to what i thought was the best game in town for a valve adjustment. $200 later they tell me they have restored 2 and 3 cylinders and thats all they tell me ( i am planning a move across the county in just a few days and i was too scattered to ask any questions). i drive the car for a couple days and definitely notice a substantial power gain however the shake is still present and that hammering effect is still present at the exhaust so i give the place a call and am told to stop be and they can take a look at it right away. so i drive across town and suddenly they are too busy to fix their screw up or tell me anything about my compression and send me on my way. the following day i make a call being the captain of prick island and am told to come back out and they will make room for me.a new compression check on 2 and 3 reveals 75 and 100 lbs compression respectively and the mechanic that worked on my truck told me my springs are weak and that he can push my valves in with his thumb. this gets a blank stare from me being i am not very knowledgeable in the tuning spec of valves. anyway long story short they tell me i need a complete valve job which could take weeks and atleast 800 bucks and now i am in between a rock and a hard place not knowing who if not everybody is giving me the bone. did the machine shop do a shit rebuild? my water pump housing was pitted badly and my cooling system did develop a leak a little under a couple months after my rebuild was complete and they obviously adjusted my valves wrong in the first place. did my auto mechanic just do a shit job on my valve adjustments and didnt want to take the time to get it right? i have a feeling these guys stripped out my #2 cylinder because i checked my plugs before and after i dropped my truck off and it wasn't broke before (had to run a chaser to get the plug back in), also shouldn't they have done a compression check after they adjusted the valves?why did i have to take my truck back two times before they even knew the pressure in 2 and 3? okay this is getting long (kind of hot at the moment)so here is the situation i am moving from austin tx to mendocino ca on monday i am out of time as far as getting this thing fixed locally and i just dont have the know how or time to do this myself at the moment A)VERY IMPORTANT: what are some jury rigs i can do to smooth out my idle for the time being? presently i am running vr1 20w-50 oil in my engine. until i make some cash at my new job in ca i am going to have to limp her along (shes all i got) i am going to be living in the country so trips to town will be 50 or so miles each way. B)anybody between austin tx and mendocino ca that might be willing to give an honest hand with this? i am tired of being bent over the barrel. C)are there any IDIOTS guides to adjusting my own valves or removing my head for rebuild. D) what are cali prices to get a thing like this done what if i remove my own head first? i feel very stressed out yall, its like austin found out i was moving got pissed and straight bent me over the barrel and now i am worried my little baby is going to die in the middle of nowhere ca after i tow her across the county

so i primed the carb and she started right up however i have to rev the engine for a couple of minutes to keep the truck from dying could my issues be an elevation thing? austin is pretty much sea level and denver is pretty much the rocky mountains?

it sounds just like a bad fuel pump but the pump is pushing fuel, the starter works fine and the engine will turn. every once in a while she sounds like she wants to catch for a half a second but doesnt. i fear it has something to do with the carb because i am getting fuel all the way to it and plenty of spark. the funny thing is there were zero issues all the way to denver i parked in front of my buddies house hung out for a few hours then jumped into the truck to grab some grub and she decided she no longer wanted to turn over. i am about to head to the gas station for a bit of fuel to try priming the carb. but right no i have a big old question mark over my head.