Silky_Johnson

Good man on putting your wife before the car. You got your priorities straight. Point well taken! It was the only comparison I could find. :blush: 7hp for $3000? :no: Buy the base model and spend $500 on exhaust...

Fixed. And you forgot your exclamation points Hainz. :rofl: My goon has 3" blocks out back and super stiff lowering springs out front. The back end has the stock springs and regular old shocks, and the PO cut up the rubber bump stops on the axle above the leaf springs to keep it from bottoming out prematurely. There's still a little rubber there for just in case. What the PO failed to consider was the weird bump stop thing that sits right above the differential. With the weight of the car on the wheels, that dang differential bump stop is only an inch or so above the differential. I guess what this means is that over any hard bumps, the rear end almost immediately bottoms out on the differential bump stop and then launches the back end up as a result. I always feel like the back end is trying to buck me out of the car... I'm afraid to take out the bump stop because then I'll probably just start getting differential slap directly on the car. Remedies? I'm thinking about flipping a leaf and then using 1" of 2" blocks to stiffen things up? I'd like to get gas adjust shocks or those load adjusting shocks with springs built in to stiffen things up as well.

This video sucks because the logic is all upside down, but what it does kind of indicate is that the Juke (non Nismo?) and a 510, with what appears to have an N/A SR20 swap (?) among other upgrades, seem to be fairly comparable in terms of speed and handling (on the track in the video). Before I get flamed, I know the video doesn't prove anything and is close to pointless... I don't like the way they look, but might be fun to drive?

You drive a hard bargain...

Don't you think we should maybe ask for more than $1.00? $1.00 isn't exactly a lot of money these days... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DJtHL3NV1o

Get a U67 from the junkyard, mount it on the L20B, and use the L16 exhaust manifold. Or if you want a cammed A87 peanut head with U67 size valves, square port exhaust, and 1.5" port matched intake, I'll sell it to you...

I just installed a Weber 38 on my L20B and it runs awesome right out of the box, no modifications. No stumble, no dead spots, and no dieseling. It doesn't even bog in low RPMs under load. All I did was adjust idle speed and mixture. It's about time I got lucky with tuning...

So that's where the confusion is... I had an idea we were talking about the same thing.

I think you need to put some shoes on. Those feet look kinda gnarly... :w00t:

Wouldn't a thicker gasket lower the C/R? :confused:

If that's the only thing going between the head and block, this must be an attempt to run an extra thin gasket and raise the compression ratio?

A scratch? Your arm's off!

Check with the dealer first. I've been getting really lucky lately as far as availability of factory parts. For May of '69 through July of '71, the part number is 54436-A0800. For anything after July of '71, the part number is 54436-U0101. I think 54436-U0101 will work for any years as that part number "superceded" previous years. Check 54436-U0101 first. See no. 46 below.

Intake flange 0.050" larger than the exhaust flange? I was getting MAJOR exhaust leaks with 0.030" difference?

I made the mistake of taking my exhaust manifold to a machinist for "bead blasting and cleaning," and it came back with 0.030" surfaced from the head side. :no: I then had to explain why that sucked and then take the intake manifold in to get it done too.