Flashing_Banana

Any idea on what shipping would be?

Yeah, I'm still looking for one, would prefer a dry intake one and one that can has the smog crap option. Had a H72 on it, but as long as it fits, I'll take it. Thanks guys!

Well, an update I guess, machine shop called this morning to tell me my block is all clean. He also said that he has a friend in Phoenix that has a head for me! I called that shop and he said he has two heads, a H72 and a H89. Sweet . He said they would be $250 and $295 respectively, for the head, resurface, valve job, and a 3 month warranty. I think this is the better way to go, because I just don't know what Autozone is selling. And, of course, I'll be getting the H89. Freeing up a few ponies is always good!

Thanks metalmonkey47! Shipping cross country seems like it would be pricey though.

Well, looks like a H89 is out of the question, I would just like to drive this thing before I have to tow it cross country. I'll be in northern Michigan sometime next month. The head from Autozone is a new head, or so said the young'n on the line. The only thing he told me is that it's a bear head. I don't know which head it's modeled after so it would be a gamble as to which one it really is. I now know from this thread that all the heads have the same bolt pattern for the intake and exhaust, just a little confusion. Z_Rac3r, sometimes you just get a parts guy who knows the numbers and not about how to work on cars, haha. If the price of shipping plus the head and the machine work done to it comes close to the price of the new head, I might as well get something with a year warranty. If I go that route I'll take plenty of pics and stuff to let you guys know that there are new heads out there, that are in some warehouse in a box. Just hope its not a round port, that would suck.

Dguy210, That would be my price range depending on shipping, a resurface and valve job will be $140 before some amount of tax. Then again, springing for a new head wouldn't be that much more, it does have a 3 year warranty. I just realized this, I looked at that head from Autozone again, it says it weighs 383 Lbs. Whaaaa? Thats more than a whole A14! DRIVEN, I know of that site, and I have poured over it. I even put a link to the H89 in my previous post. I know that the H72 is midrange and whatnot. I guess whatever has the same stock intake manifold bolt/stud pattern would work. The H89 says that it has a new intake bolt pattern. I'm sure to save money and whatnot, Datsun stuck with the same or similar bolt pattern. Aren't all the exhausts the same? Mine does have that little heater flap for the carb. I'm just trying to understand all of this. Thanks all!

I know that it's not the best head out there, but I just need something. I think it was the H89 that some considered good, I don't remember. Do all the heads share the same bolt pattern? Just some have wet and dry manifolds? I'm sure you could plug or drill the holes needed to make whichever one work. I talked to one of the shops guys today and he said that he could call around and see if he can find anything nearby. I checked craigslist for most of Arizona and Las Veags, just hoping to find something, I found a few B-210's, but they were whole clean cars. I guess I can call some of the Pick-A-Parts in Phoenix and see if they have any. The reason I asked about the cam bearings was that the guy at O'reilleys said that the box only had 4, I told him I needed 5, he looked confused.

It's been awhile sense I've been here, and now, I need some help. I tore my A14 apart and sent the extra block and old head to the shop to clean them up, they hot tanked the block and I'm currently still waiting on my cam bearings and freeze plugs so they can put them in for $20, worth not having to rent the cam bearing tool. Quick question about the cam bearings, there should be 5 right? Anyway, they cleaned my head and found that between the valves the head was cracked. Just to put it politely, I spouted a lot of profanity. So, I either need to find a shop around here that can weld an aluminum head and not mess it up or get a new head. I know that there were others here that told me to get a new head, but out here, there just aren't any old Datsuns. I really don't want to pay $321 for a new head from Autozone, that is my absolute last option. That price is just utter madness. Anyone out there feeling charitable? My head is a H72 with stock intake and exhaust.

Found this and thought I should share. RPM Machine and the prices seem almost too good for the "Gold Kit", for a A14 anyway.

Well, some more news, I am currently unemployed, again. So, this is what I think I shall do, clean the short block, get a gasket set, skip the bearings because they seem to be fine and whatnot, rebuild the carb, already got the gaskets, reuse the valve train from the runner, and get the head cleaned up. I've been watching ebay for a bit, the lightened lifters popped up, also a normal set. I think it would be a good idea to compare the cams in the engines to see which one looks better, cleaner and whatnot. I know I shouldn't be cheap, but it seems I need to go that way. The only oil pumps I can find are 100+ new at part stores, I take it you can't rebuild them or anything. I've got two other oil pumps, but not sure of their condition. I replaced the pump that was on this block because there where times were it wouldn't create pressure for some time, up to 30 secs. I knew it had oil in it, I would check it every time I would start it in the morning. The pump on there now works much better, but it maxes out just under 60 psi, low at 12-15 at my erratic idle. I would like a new one or figuring out if the other two are any good. Again, any input or criticism is appreciated. Why does the economy have to suck? Why can't it be like the olden days, where you talked to the boss man of the place, he sat you down, asked you a few questions, shook your hand and you had a job. Not all this stupid online stuff where your graded by a computer to see if you would do the right things.

Well, I get about 19 right now with the auto, and running on 3 weak cylinders, and idling around 400-900, and burning a quart every 80 miles or so. Hey, I'm drivin a two stroke! Fill the oil and check the gas.

Took a few hours to get the pics, but I also looked over most of them and tried to figure out where they went. Used a real camera and the shots look much better. Oh well, lots of interesting parts and mystery electrics! Nothing all that surprising here, tail lights, side markers and licence lights break, seat belts get loose, but horn pad wears out? Not sure about that, only found one turn signal lense. Top right is smog crap, top middle, dark bags front bearings I believe, and below those is a tranny filter I'm guessing. It's got dirt and crap in it, not useful anymore me thinks. The front calipers are rusted solid, new shiny alternator, but it needs an external regulator. Found an extra oil dipstick, really? Does anyone know who either breaks or loses theirs to need an extra? Lets play a fun game! Name the electrics, I know what some of these are, others, not so sure. A few relays, maybe circuit breakers/blinkers, silver canisters, light sockets, transistor box, and switches. There are a few I have a feelings don't belong, such as the big red chingadara and maybe the two thermo dohickies. I also don't think the two switches on the far top left are related. Are those round black plastic devices electric chokes or something? This is the extra valve train, well, almost a whole one. I dumped the sand and crap out of the box after this. There are 15 valve springs, 7 intake valves, 7 push rods, and 6 exhaust valves. I guess some weren't up to this guys standards. The timing chain and sprockets seem to have only 12k on them. One of the rocker arms seems to be seized, or just needs gentle persuasion. Heater core and, heater core? I'm sure if I looked at the service manual it would explain. Is that also a fan spacer on the corner? I have an electric fan and it seems to work just fine, for now. I think the thermo switch for it is busted cause the fan never comes on, and I remember it coming on before, when it was colder out. Maybe I bumped it at some time. Two small bags worth of stuff minus the hardware/fasteners. What are the round vents? Where do those go? The bottom left two objects have me baffled, the right one maybe bent, it could be normally flat. Larger bag full of goodies. Not sure what the brackets are top right and bottom left. Good to know I have two extra rad caps just in case. The round object on the top right seems to be the auto handle mount. Big ziploc bag, with Japanese characters? It says nothing important, just thought it was odd. The car is left hand drive, but maybe the 2nd owner was Japanese. Just another thing to ponder about. I've said it before, but every time i get under this car, I find something new. Still don't know what that tiny toggle switch does though.

Well, the place I live in has proven itself again to how much it sucks to live here. None of the auto places I've been to have plastigauge. If you don't know what plastigauge is, just click here. Well, if no one else has had any issues with re-torquing the stock main/rod bolts, I'll just reuse them. Reason I didn't get to the parts cataloging is I had to get a molar pulled, $202 total, my rebuild money basically. I didn't exactly feel like doing all that, but I shall do that tomorrow and get a list of all the stuff I don't need. I still have some money, but if someone has a head in or around the tri-state area, let me know.

Today I shall grab some plastigauge, and measure them all either today, or tomorrow. I know that tomorrow I will drag out all the parts and catalog them, and put them in their respective boxes. I don't need/want all these parts. I seriously don't believe I will be breaking an axle housing. So, some, if not most, will be for sale. Not sure how the parts out in the real world are, but I shall see. I shall also keep an eye out for new followers. At some point in time, you could buy a H95 head from Autozone. I'll see what I can do with those "coil-overs" too. So, reuse the rod bolts, or not? I've read that they only torque once, then you need to replace them. Stupid question, but I'm sure I can't use some grade 8 bolts and grind the bolt head down to fit, seems like most everyone would do this. Do they not torque right?

Ok, took bunches of pictures to please the forum gods. I would love to build a engine the proper way, but I'm tight on funds as I am going to be moving cross country. I would like to have my car running well at least. I won't be driving it, it shall be towed behind my parents car, maybe, or the moving truck. This current engine in my car has around 187k on it at the moment. It would be better to use the cam in the short block if it's in good shape? I just said using the original valve train because I know it should be in decent shape cause my engine is running now with no ticking or anything. If I had it my way, if I had money to spend on myself, I would build it up, stoke it out and make it a great daily driver with a 5 speed. Power down low, and just drive. Alas, I can't do that unless I win the lottery. As I said, I have 3 cam's, 2 rocker shafts w/ rockers, and 2 sets of push rods. Well, I said I had the cams. Rockauto has just the one set, O'Reilly only has the upper and lower end gasket set, I would have to buy them seperatly. They don't have the full kit. I priced out at O'Reilly and it would be around 150, main, cam, rod bearings, and gaskets, minus FREIGHT. Yes, freight, for things that you can send in a small box, thru USPS. Bull dingle berries. Rockauto supplies both gaskets, I know I have the oval ports without the water passages, or welded sealed. Now, for the good stuff. Don't hate me too much, this started out as a post about my car, then about my engine. Hell, it's all one already, waste to start a new thread. I wish I could tell you what this material is, but I haven't got a clue. He spent a good bit of time getting it to match the dash, when it's in place, it's snug, doesn't move, or rattle or anything. Maybe some sort of pleather? It's streched, and that pattern/indentations, I'm not sure if it came like that or if the 2nd owner did it himself. I'm guessing the latter. He also made some arm rests, the seem quite warn, so I'm guessing they are quite old. You can see all the silicone the guy used on the flat places, it wasn't hard to pull out, or put back in. YEAH! More silicone! Still leaks! I haven't popped it open, because its sealed shut inside and out. It's getting warm and I want my sun roof to pop up. Here are the dual fuel pumps, which can be turned on independently, also the fuel filter is there, I think it's bout time to change it. Hard to see, but that shinny thing in line with the nut is the switch for selecting the fuel pumps, and that tanish button is the starter button, turns the engine, but no power to the coil. Like my custom coil-overs? I know I sure don't. They not only look scary, but they lift the back up by about 1.5 inches. Tires are 175 70 r13, almost the same size as stock, speedo is off by about 10 mph when cruising at 45, I think I'm going 45 anyway. Here is the sad, unhappy, and plumber taped muffler. I know, I need a new one. Here is my manual coke, I'm sure there's nothing stock about it. This is my fuse box, there are many like it, but this one is mine. There are also inline fuses in random places, so it causes even more fun! This is really cool though, if a fuse goes out, the respective led comes on. Yet another thing this car does differently. One day, this will look nice, but that day will be full of words and pain. Right, windshield wiper speed control thingy, bottom control is the A/C on off and temp knob, those two switches are pretty self explanatory, but not what they really do. Horn switch is an on/off for the horn on the steering wheel. But, there is a button and switch on the passenger side so they can operate the horn independently of the driver, regardless of that switch, so the passenger can beep, but not the driver. The fan switch is kinda similar, it controls the fan in the sense that when the little thermo switch says to turn the fan on, this can turn that off. But, there is another switch that turns the fan on regardless of the thermo switch and that switch. I can not fathom this mans reasoning. A/C evaporater is in the black thing, and the stock blower is on the bottom of it. Just found out recently that the fan still works, you pull on the hot/cold selector thing. Fan works with the A/C, just didn't realize it pulled out. The driver vent was broke, it wouldn't close, and several of those plastic rings were either cracked or not inline with everything else. It hurt to tear it out, but, I got a perfect spot for my tach. Just need to seal it better because I can feal air coming in around it. Just not sure what to use. Well, quite off topic, but if I get yelled at, then so be it. Every day I get in my car on my back, I find something new. It's an exciting adventure so far. Just one thing I not sure of what it does. In the pic with the fan and horn switches, you see a red light and a very small switch. The light comes on when I press the brake pedal, when the brake lights come on. The switch though, I've tried my best to follow it without removing anything, and all I can say is that one wire goes into the dash, and the other gets lost. I know the wire color is blue/yellow, or some color similar to an old looking yellow. Hope this pleases some of you, if I can get a chuckle or three, then it's worth it.