JoeR

After more poking around, I realized the A/C unit between the blower motor and heater core is filled with water. I don't think its drainging properly. I checked the core and it was fine, no leaks. It was replaced before I bough the truck, anyway. Does anyone have pictures/advice on removing the A/C box so I can re-connect the drip line?

No, I was driving so I couldn't see where the water was coming from. It was dripping, not a constant flow.

I was driving yesterday and noticed that there was some water leaking out of the cabin fan housing. I was running my A/C and the water was cold. I drove this morning as well and was not running A/C and water still leaked. Not sure if its something to do with the heater core or maybe the A/C drip line is clogged?

I would have re-used the old drums except that they didn't have enough metal on them to be turned. I also checked the front rotors and pads and they are fine, they were replaced a few years ago. I know it's the rears because I feel the pulsation more through the seat and floor than through the pedal. I may have over ajusted the shoes. Should I back off the adjusters so there is no resistance or leave them with a little resistance?

Just changed the rear drums and shoes on my 85 720. They had never been touched as far as I could tell. Once I got everything back together and adjusted, they still pulsate. I am wondering if I over-adjusted the shoes or if the drums need to be turned? Any input would be appreciated!

Last time I adjusted the valves in my truck, it was a pain to get all the adjustments done in time. I would prefer to adjust the valves while the engine is cold. Does anyone know the COLD valve specs? Much obliged...

I've checked the timing at its right on. Where should I be looking for this vacuum line? Stock timing is 3 degrees so check and stick to that. There is a vacuum switch that under heavy load turns off the exhaust side plugs. The distributor automatically advances the timing to compensate for the longer burn time. This was introduced by Nissan to reduce engine noise under heavy load. The noise might be the two flame fronts from both plugs meeting and sounding like detonation. Maybe the switch is stuck or the vacuum line to it is cracked. Might be worth checking out.

Yes! I do the Crenshaw climb 4 or 5 times a week, as well as the climb up Hawthorne from PV drive west every day. They can get the engine pretty warm! I've heard good things about Walton's but I have had good experiences with hilltop automotive as well. Thanks for the advice!

Latley my 85 720 has been pinging more than normal, mostly when climbing hills or if its warm out. When I first bought the truck it had 65K miles on it and ran fine with our 87 octane cat piss. I've had it now for almost 4 years and it has 126K on the odo. For the last year and half, I've started to run 89 octane in it which helps the pinging but the engine still pings when I'm climbing or if its hot out. I bought the truck in Norcal and had it up there for three years. I have moved back down to Socal and I'm thinking the warmer average temp has something to do with it. On the flat, the engine runs great but when I start climbing and the engine gets warmer, it starts to ping and I loosed power. I am using the reccomended NGK plugs and there is plently of coolant in the system. I haven't adjusted the valves in a while so that may be the culprit as well. Would using hotter plugs help? Any thought/reccomendations would be helpful!

So I'm changing out the front bearings on my 720. The passenger side outer bearing is pretty much gone, I found metal shavings in the rollers once I pulled it out! I had a little trouble getting the races out of the ub, but a little work with a punch did the trick. My question is: what is the best way to get the new races back into the hub so I can reassemble everything. Thanks!

Thanks for tips about getting the crank handle off! BUT...the reason I wanted to take the door apart was to get to the regulator mechanism. For whatever reason, my window will not roll down anymore and I think something is jammed in the mech. I'd love to be able to get the regulator mech out to look at it. Is this possible without having to roll the window down or can it be in any posistion? In other words, what is the easiest way to remove the window mechanism?

My drivers' side window will not roll down and I figure I need to get into the door to see whats wrong. Whats the easiest way to remove the window crank? Does one need a special tool? As usual, Chilton's instructions are a little vague. Thanks!

I had a similar problem with my fuel pump relay. It would start clicking and then the truck would die. I took my old one out and took it apart only to find that the inside looked like someone hit it with a blow torch. When I went to get a replacement, Oreilly no longer stocked it, even though it shows up on their website. I got mine from NAPA for about $75. The most difficult thing about dealing with it is mounting back onto the firewall, best get yourself a right-angle screwdriver.

Checked the fuse, it was OK. Otherwise the truck ran fine today. I'll report back if I have any problems. It could be our gas, who knows, up North I would run 87 no problem but due to the slightly warmer weather down here, it knocked a bit more than usual so I've been running 89 and it seem to like it a bit better. Thanks!

Ok, cool, I'll check the fuse, but where on the carb is the idle adjusting screw?