datsun76_620

Sold

...almost....

I'll get you an answer later tonight... These are the Alum color...not bronze...

Like This oldskoolvws Yesterday, 10:14 PM Is there a part number on the center caps? Do you need the number to order your own or just curious...they are already in the box ready to go...

Okie...gotta give lyfetakers till Friday (since he asked ;-) Update at 11...

OK...good enough responses to pull it off ebay.... ;-) First $527 sent to my paypal gets the wheels!! (yes that includes the shipping...) firing order: -fivetenguy : waiting for another sale to go through -lyfetakers : talking to now...if no reply by 12noon eastern then: -76620-818 : 12noon 18-19 Dec... -goichi : 12noon 19-20 Dec... They will fit a 620 PERFECTLY!!!! That's what I was going to use them on!! (720...just not as cool as a 620 ;-) Some better pics: http://s298.photobuc...orbubba/- ebay/ There is one wheel with some slight pitting and nother with a very small scrape. Both pictured. VERY MINIMAL....you have to look hard for it. Thanks Guys!!! :-)

Listed on Ebay... NISMO TE37X Wheels (by Rays Engineering!!!!) Looking for $500 + you pay shipping. Will end auction early for a RATSUN member!! Charleston, SC area for Local PU...

....but loosen / retorque an L-series in ANY order???? <-goes against everything I have ever heard....?? (I think I just want to hear you say it again....):mellow:

Why not POR15???

THANKS!!! I appreciate it greatly!! I would have hated to ruin them!!

I've had my torsion bars out for ever and need to get them back in TODAY! I'm pretty sure I miss marked them when I took them out.... :( On the end of the bar there is a L and R mark with an arrow.... I "understand"(???) that the L and R correspond to sitting IN the truck.... ...but the arrows are confusing me !! Do they point the directon the bars should be 'loaded'???? I would think that it would point to how they 'unload' ie exert their force??? Please fix me!!!!

....What to Expect??????? !!!!!FUN!!!!! :thumbsup:

Great discussion fellas....but.... Where do you mount the PCV on: -Offenhauser Mani (I don't remember there being a port there...) or -A Side Draft setup???

Fellas... 1st Thanks for the help! Just saved me another $20ea!! :thumbup: Well here's what you need to do it right: The Biggest help I found was: THE MORE HEAT THE BETTER!!! Removal: -Heat up the outside bushing sleeve (the frame section not the bushing itself) -As you add heat the rubber in the bushing will start to melt. (This is good....ADD MORE HEAT!) Make sure that if you didn't take off the frame crossmember that you heat the back of the sleve through the little hole in the frame. -The trick here is to get enough rubber out of the way that you can drive the inner bushing section far enough in so your 1-1/4 bushing driver (Harbor Freight) will contact the outer metal bushing section without gouging the sleeve! -> -Now take your 3-5 lb sledge and whack the F#&* out of it! It will take time, muscle, and Patience....(the ones I was taking out were only in for 3mos!!!....Not to mention 30 Years!!) -Add MORE heat to the frame as you go....whacking and making sure that you don't gouge the sleve....(oops...repeating myself.... :blink:) -It will come out eventually......Make sure you burn and clean the inside of the sleeve before you go for replacement....and...KEEP IT HOT!!! Replacement: (here's where I played "The Flash"!!!:cool:) -Take you brand new bushing out of the freezer (YEP! Heat expands...cold contracts!!!) -Slop the bushing with Assembly Lube (someone else suggested crisco...???) -Hand set the bushing on the sleeve so it will go in straight -Take your SOFT 2x4 and the sledge you used earlier and drive it in! (Now if it was only that easy!!!?????) -You will probably only get it in 1/2 way until the bushing starts heating up...NO Problem I Say!!!! -Now take you trusty Crafstman 28mm 1/2 drive socket ( I used a Japanese KTZ 28mm because it had a flatter surface on the open side, but the Crafstman will work) and CAREFULLY drive the bushing in the rest of the way by striking the socket on the outer section of the bushing with your sledge....(you DON'T need as much force as you think!!!! Just nice deliberate strikes - maybe just over a tap -) -The key in the last step is to NOT strike the inner / rubber section of the bearing with ANYTHING! (the soft wood didn't do any damage...) -Drive it until it is set equally on both sides and you are done!!!! :) The Final Result:

Isn't THAT the TRUTH!!!:cool: She might have gotten my wallet...but not my DATSUN!!! ....I was kinda sweating it...but then when the cop pulled up behind me as I was flashing my hazards....he just drove by and waved!!! (Really!!) Gotta love being down south!!! -> he's probably heard the story tooooo many times... You fellas are AWESOME!! Thanks!:thumbsup: