Williespeed

OK the big update pulled the filter from the pump and spent an hour at the parts store before giving the guy datzenmikes part # and Voila found the part ordered two @ 6.25 per put one in and about 1200 miles without a hickup I gotta re adjust the weber though it's not opening the secondaries any longer. but it runs great. Except for the exhaust note which is the equivalent of the mental brown noise at 70. So a header and full system are in the works, thanks for all your help I truly would not have been able to get it done without you guys.

http://hubpages.com/hub/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You I think Its my pump filter but I found this article interesting.

The truck ran great yesterday under the same test drive 4 blocks up to the grade school a hot lap around the parking lot and home. I got into the secondaries a couple of times to make sure I had full throttle. I went up again this morning to check traction in the snow and test the 4 wheel drive and it died when I got to the school. I think it's gonna be the filter the truck sat for nearly two years with less than a quarter tank before I got it. I need to go to my buddies and get my other pair of channel locks so I can get the filter off the Pump. I also found a guy here in Seattle on Craigslist with 6 OEM NOS pumps for 8 bucks each I'm gonna get 2 from him when he returns home on Saturday. and replace it but I will check the filter first. Tailight anyone yes I already looked in parts for sale.

I'll take the 26556-01W00 left rear 720 tail light lens call me 206 579 8106 Bill

I pulled the 12v connection replugged it pulled the line at the carb and turned the key on and the fuel just trickled out it should push at a fair rate insted of barely coming out. I think there is a fuel pump in my future. The manual said I would have to replace 1 transistor 2 diodes and 3 resistors so a new pump is probably the way to go. IF anybody has removed the pump filter and that is merely a suggestion let me know and i will check it. Thanks for the help thus far anybody got a drivers side tail light lens?

It's a Z22 with electric pump I will pull the connections and check them out and then check the bowls.

I have an 82 720 that was running great after putting on a new Weber 32/36 I took it for a test drive this morning and 4 blocks in it died. I had replaced the fuel filter at the pump when I did the carb that was tuesday. I can hear the pump running there is fuel in the filter at the pump but it doesn't seem to be pulling fuel from the tank. Is there another filter I am missing? has anyone everr run into an issue with the fuel pick up. I just added another 5 gallons of gas and it reads over 3/4 full. anybody got a parts truck with a stock fuel cell for sale? I'm in Seattle.

Ha it's a carb model

Can you put the KA24DE head on a Z22 what did the KA24DE come in and what years and does it have the same bolt pattern for the bell housing as the Z motors for that matter are the L motors the same bolt pattern?

I've got a 1982 720 I just picked up, and I am looking at the Weber 32/36 to make the thing run right. It has 229k on the clock so I will need to tighten it up soon and I have been wondering about what the best option for what I want would be. Key to the build would be reliability and fuel economy as it is a commuter first and a wheeler snow rig second. so what would you all recommend? Datzenmike had some good advice saying that if used the 2.2e pistons to turbo I would most likely always be on the turbo because the low compression would be a dog without the turbo spooled up. Is the purpose of putting a l head just for higher revs or because it will take the higher lift cams? Also where is a good place to source parts for the Z motors. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Datzenmike thats exactly the kind of practical advice I'm looking for, what about a stock Z22 with a turbo?

So what will the L head do for me? and I assume I want to use the L20B head of any of the L's but I don't know

Hi Ratsun.net I'm new here and I just bought me another 720. I've had a few 620's and this is my second 720 my first being a 1980 model. I bought it because it was in good shape a little rust here and there but thats what life is like in the northwest rust is a part of life. The skid plates are all virgin and the wiring harness hasn't been hacked so I went for it. but it doesn't stay running. It runs decent enough but on a slight uphill grade it just falls on it's face and dies it restarts sometimes with a little effort, so I replaced the fuel filter. I'm new to the Z22 and will check the far left fuse for the exhaust side coils. I pulled the carb because I was supposed to get a rebuilt from a guy who hasn't come thru. So I am looking at the webers now as well the Weber site says 34DGEC and I saw it recommended to use the 32/36 and stay the hell away from the 34/34. That all said it has 229k on the clock and I have poked around but I can't find a rebuild kit for the Z22 or for the carb anybody know where I can locate such things or what a painless swap is from the Z22? What I mean by painless is straight swap no motor mt changing or exhaust or any of that. I would kinda like to keep the 22 even though it's only a 3 year motor and the 24 is a little larger. Unless someone has a good argument not to use the 22 any info would be greatly appreciated. I like to go wheelin but the primary use is commuting so reliability and economy are key factors for me. Another question is I had I think 3 hard lines on the carb that were not plugged or connected but one was are some of the metal vacuum lines on the carb unused?