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hogboy52

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Old Lompoc
  • Cars
    77 620 KC, 210 wgn, 52 Harley, 62 R60 BMW
  • Interests
    computer gaming and modding, shop projects
  • Occupation
    philanderer

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  1. I would rather not try to adjust pushrod valves with feeler guages. Over time the valve stem tip will wear a divot into the rocker arm surface and a feeler guage will give a false reading. Instead I turn the adjuster to snug so the pushrod will spin with some resistance then back off the adjuster a set amount and tighten. The A-motor screw threads are 1mm. so 1/4 turn would be .25mm., however the rocker ratio is greater than 1/1 (don't remember the actual ratio) so I back off 1/6 turn (one nut flat) or maybe less. This is very much quicker and all the valves lash are very close to each other. There was a tool made for this at one time. It had a disk with numbers for various engine models.
  2. If the car will start and idle, run a jumper from +12 to the coil and see if it will operate normally in the other gears. If so this will isolate it to a wireing problem.
  3. The neutral safety switch will only run the starter in P or N but ignition in any gear. Yours will crank in any gear but only run in P or N. Sooo...... (wait for it)........ The wires are reversed. The ignition wire is attached to the neutral switch and the start wire is attached to the ignition coil I would say (I don't have an auto). If it starts and revs fine why spend all that money on ignition parts?
  4. The owners manual will give the locations, but do you mean frame number? There were none till near '80's.
  5. Volvo B20B (2 liter) with twin HS6's used KN needle. Should be quit close.
  6. The valve cover is the fresh air inlet. Nothing should be coming out. Air enters the top and is drawn out the bottom into the intake manifold. That's why it's called ventilation.
  7. White sludge on filler cap is from too cold a thermostat and/or PCV not working correctly. Water vapor from combustion will rise up from the crankcase and condense on the cooler metal of the valve cover.
  8. The steering geometry is engineered in such a way that the steering axis at the ground intersects the exact center of the tire patch and slightly forward (caster). This is to assure neutral steering inputs with braking and road surface irregularities. Judging only from the small photo in your avatar the wheels are offset quite far out so that road surface drag pulls on the steering and a difference from one side to the other will pull in that direction. Adding to that there also appears to be a severe camber issue in which the inside and outside of the tire must travel a different distance and so are always scubbing and creating more drag. Bikers call this sort of thing "profiling" and simple tweeks won't likely change the problem much.
  9. hogboy52

    520 cab removal

    First off does the parts truck have a title? If not you will need to do a title search or do a numbers job or risk the consequences.
  10. The "81 510 at Columbia Pick&Pull has a very clean and complete motor, 110k on odometer.
  11. Judging fro the position of the dist. cap slot, it is at the 1&1/2 position not #2. Never mind, The first pic it points at the clip and is half-way.
  12. The right side of the lid I see now is the fuel inlet but on the left side it looks like a hose going somewhere. It looks too cluttered for a '76 model carb. Those are air bubbles and are coming from what would normally be the fuel inlet to the accelerator pump. It seems that also air must be being drawn out. The small BB at the bottom of the pump that acts as a one-way valve may be missing. In any case it could hardly have any fuel in it to be pumped into the carb.
  13. The float bowl is normally vented to the outside air but this one is sealed with a brass fitting and line to the manifold vacuum to draw off gas fumes. I can see it at the 2 o'clock position. The bubbles are air drawn in through the bottom of the accelerator pump which may be why the pump doesn't work well. The fuel level looks to be too high but I can't see where the line is. The float also looks like it has sunk some. It's brass and might have leaked some fuel inside. I would take the line off the bowl fitting and plug the manifold end.
  14. Take the rocker arm off, spray any type of penetrating oil around the stem, place a bit of wood over the valve spring and tap on that with a hammer.
  15. Is the vacuum advance working or has it developed a leak. Check timing at full advance not just at idle.
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