Zonker

Ha, Two sides of the same coin

Finally figured out uploading images

I'm looking for someone in the Bay Area who can work with me to build an SR swap 510. I want to be up front, so here's my situation: I have the opportunity to build a car I've been dreaming about for a very long time, but I have a limited time frame in witch to build and drive it. No, I haven't been give a year to live, but I am loosing my vision. It's all good, that's life you know. I really want to build this car right, but at the same time the longer it takes the less I'm going to get to drive this monster. I could really us some help, and would be more than happy to work something out with an SR whiz with some time on their hands. My project is all about fun, low stress collaboration. if you're interested, or know someone who might be, let's talk. mastersr6@yahoo.com or 415 377 8400 The car we are building is NOT a powder puff show bunny, but a purposeful, minimalist, driving car that looks good, and goes like hell. The goals is to maintain a reliable, 250-hp drivable street car at 10 psi with the ability to turn up the boost to 22 psi and get silly at the track. Hoping to reach around 400-whp. Check out my build thread atviewtopic.php?f=3&t=15379 Thanks, Ron M. Here's some of the work so far Chases Suspension, break & body. Spherical rod-end control arms, tension/control rods, and steering links front & rear coil-over suspension (all rebuildable) with camber plates - stainless steel brake lines on all four corners - Wilwood big brake kit, front and rear - new brake/clutch master cylinder - slotted rear X member, rear & front sway bar, razed control arm pivot points on front X member- bump steer correction - enlarged 3" cross-member exhaust tunnel - body bonded 6-point roll cage - refinished pedal and steering assembly - fiberglass hood and front valence. Still Need: fiberglass bumpers, mirrors, Drive Train: (at this point):: SR20DET S13 with 24K street - lightened flywheel - Nismo clutch - HD poly engine and trany mounts - Ron Davis Intercooler and Radiator with pipes- Log style T3 manifold - Garrett GT3071R turbo with 3" V band exh & 4" intake - Tial waste gate & boost controller - Stainless steel turbo oil/water lines, custom Water neck - Z32 Mass airflow sensor - 4" Apexi air filter housing, all parts needed to fab down pipe. 5 spd trainee that came with the SR, 2004 WRS sti R180 long nose LSD, custom one piece drive shaft, Still Need: fuel system, custom stub ends and CV axles, BOV, rear wheels 8X15 -20 offset, front 7X15 0 offset all with stock 4 bolt pattern. I'm speaking with with Troy Ermish (the guy who built the chases) to have him fab the down pipe & exhaust, also notch the rear trailing arm and open the wheel well and fender a bit more to accommodate an 8" rim. - stainless lines & fittings, pumps, pressure regulator and gage, secondary slosh tank. At start up I'm going to us race gas to match stock ECU tuning for higher oct Japanese gas, injectors, and boost levels until I get everything stabilized. Once the car is running well I will upgrade whatever I need to get 400 plus hp. To Get 400hp Still Need: Tuned, or stand alone ECU, 750cc injectors, Air in-take manifold, possibly cams, springs & stays, Electrical: I have the stock 72, 510 harness that will run the lights, blinkers, etc. and will be getting a modified S13 harness that will make the motor run on its own, but I need help figuring this all out. Still Need: Gages & sensors for tack, Speed, water temp, oil pressure, voltage, I have boost gage S13 harness. Mechanical: I need to figure out a gas pedal, parking break, cable trunk release, seats, 5 point harness.

check this out. more industrial techno, but silly sickhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acWMaqHynKo

DAAAAAAAAAMN! OK, Ya you might qualify for the afore mentioned exemption for fire breathing drag car!

IMHO to hack a car up like this is a crime. That being said, I'm no purest, and if there's one thing on a 510 i'd be willing to compromise in the pursuit of GO FAST it would be those skinny ass wheel wells. My question, if you're not just doing 10"and box flares for the look, at what point dose the Sawsall come out of the tool box? How much more performance dose another 2" really get you? Girls please don't answer that question. I would think at some point (depending on the application) the law of diminishing returns kicks in. OK, if you've got an 800hp fire breathing drag car, but if your doing auto-X with a respectable 250hp I would think the advantage of a lighter more nimble drive train would be the quicker set up. Again if this is about a cosmetic choice, please disregard.

30 years ago my first car was a 510 and this day I'm still sick with the dime fever. IMO you couldn't ask for a better first. Kid, If there's one thing I can pass on it's this, Short cuts are expensive. Take your time and do it right the first time. God speed Jr.

With a motor that light aren't you worried the front end will float around once you hit 60 mph? Better get a scoop Dude.

What is your reasoning for 10 wheels? What do you want to do with the car? What kind of HP are we talking about? More info PLEASE!