blackwolf

hey all the helpful ppl short update on my gutless wonder ive determined that the top plate of the carb is warped so ordered and weber kit gonna simplify all the vacuum lines and cali emission crap i dont need here but im also in need of the exhaust collector it seems to be cracked pretty bad any suggestions for new or custom jobs?

hey i have a similar issue my collector seem to be cracked on the engine side pretty bad form the sound of it anyone know where i can get a new or good used one or would it be easier to just make one i have a '84 z24 720 btw

fuel is fine blow at the dot even at WOT new fuel pump and fuel filter at the beginning of jan. mileage has improved since i capped all vacuum line but the distributor, its close to normal not 100% with the 50mph head winds we get here this time of year but is getting better mileage but has no top end tops out at 70 with tail wind as for TDC i checked it on the 2nd even set it to TDC by hand and both valves r 100% closed dowel is in #2 not sure if it was vertical have to check that while im off next week but the rotor was point at #1 and timing set at the same place as it was when it was running perfect has anyone ever hear of the secondary vacuum valve wearing out i didnt think about checkin it better just pumped it and it push air out but i pumped it kinda quick wasnt sure if pin holes could have formed it factory original as far as i know

smoke....its not the vacuum advance line its lines for the altitude sensor that mine has never had.....ggzilla.. the fuel in the line was there prior to the rebuild part of the reason i rebuilt it thought it had a blow gasket in the carb now im wonderin if the carb is cracked somewhere and i just dont see it...i disconnected all vacuum except the vacuum advance on the dizy and the booster used 1 gal less of gas than it normally did but that still aint right tryin to find cheap weber to test the crack carb theory but not many near me

dead center of the dot never has been higher since ive had it

so quick update im running the distributor straight off the carb bypassed all the valves and smog bs disconnected the smog vacuum lines still gutless even my mileage has dropped to a record low for the truck 18 mpg was getting 23 not a good thing running 65 miles a day min. have discovered that i seem to be getting fuel in a vacuum tube on the top passenger section of the carb (red outline) so i think the carb is done for anyone have any ideas why there is fuel there??

yea i know just wasnt sure if it mattered which port i used my book said one or 2 was venture vacuum and the others was something else

update for ya'll timing chain is dead on wires all in the right order seem i forgot to push the brake booster line on completely so that fixed my idle issue purrs like its new but still gutless, from what i can tell my secondary is not opening at all unless i red line it then it just cracks a hair it use to open at 2200-2800ish rpm (depending on my lead footedness) when accelerating and closed once my speed leveled off and since at 70mph it only turns 3000 rpms worked great, my new question is which vacuum tube should i hook to for my vacuum advance if i just run it straight with out the thermal valves??? gonna try and weed out cracked lines also

i was wondering about it being a tooth off too but it idles fine without vacuum at 3 or 4 degrees like the tag says on the hood, valves are set did that about a month prior to the head gasket not sure on the wires gonna double check them....im going to school so replacing stuff is a little out of my price range

hey people hope someone here can help. I have a 84 720 kc with the z24 and it is just down right gutless as of late wont run over 70 and wont run over 50 with a 30mph head wind just replaced the head gasket thought that was the problem but didnt solve anything really rebuilt the factory carb replaced cap rotor plugs fixing to change wires it acts like it randomly misfires even when i just rev it up to 1600 rpms it stutters or misfires not really sure which any help would be great cus i am just lost here

lol naa i saw your post but it was mostly greek to me

yea i ive see that on here but the highest amperage ive found is 95 and with 1100 watts pulling i think it will still be pushing the alt. hard especially if i add lights and upgrade my headlights buddy of mine is retrofitting projectors with the 35 watt or 55 watt HIDs so was kinda wanting 110 amp minimum

i agree with datzenmike im running the 60 amp alternator with a 2200 watt series capacitor and 1100 watt amp pushin 2 10s on my 84 720 and the alternator is slowly dieing been hearing a whine coming form it lately. anyone know which alt will fit with minimal modifications other than the pulley really wanting to upgrade it, plan on adding a push bumper and fog lights sometime so will need the extra power

they look like mine which are pacer 16x8 with a 13-15 offset cant remember for sure i know they are just a little more than the stock steels they rub a little with 225/60R16 but nice sledge hammer or body hammer fixes that issue ride great

this mite help you out rerunning the lines