Drifter

Three thumbs up!! edit: by the way: Did you use the s13 x-member and front arms in the original lenght? What kind of aproximate cambers did you get on the front wheels? Just asking since mine is near -10 degrees, and couldnt move the arms inward, without destroying the suspension geometry completely.

Thank you. Progress has been slow this summer. Done since last time: * Mounted s13 transmission. (Gearbox mounts under production). * Fixed mounts for the dash. * Played around with rear fender options... not sure I like this... have to try out something else before I start welding,

True that. I`m afraid your not gonna like the lates addition either... Rear track is for the moment widened using huge spacers... waiting for new rear axle. Wheels are 7,5 x 16 with 225x50x16 rear and 205x50x16 front. Dont remeber offset atm.

Yeah. Front Coilovers would have been perfect. But im in economy modus until it gets started.. Have done a little bit since last. Mounted the Engine and painted the underside of the car. Front suspension is also in. Rear next. Had to move the front hubs 2 inch forward to be able to obtain sufficiant steering lock.

Time to finish up the suspension. Got hold of some Cusco S13 rear coilovers for parts. Gonna be using the original S13 front struts for now, with the cusco springs. Shaft collars is ordered. Using the original 120y/b210 top mounts. No front flairs needed :) Next up: Customizing caster-arms-framemounts and painting engine compartment

hm....Almost none of these cars ever lived in Norway..... Does anyone know what kind of diff / strenght the 1982 Nissan Laurel is packing in its rear axle?

Thank for all the answers. I belive the RX7 to be the least hard car to find here in europe. Love that it comes with lsd. With is no problem. New wheeltubs is to be made to fit anyway. This is probably a stupid qestion... but: If i weld up the spider-gears in my original axle. Will this add torque-strenght to the diff, or just make the shafts snapp even earlier? (what is the weak-spot on the H145?

Hello. I am trying to find some reliable solution to my drivetrain problem. The laws in Norway wont let me convert my B210 to a IRS-setup, because that will cause me to have to weld new mountingpoints in my frame. Rewelding mountingbrackes in a different axle is allowed. Therefor I need another rearaxle that can hold from 200 - 300 bhp. Preferably with same bolt patern 4x114,3. Any ideas to a donor car?

Man, stripping paint, oil and old tectyl takes time.... This took about 10 hours so far :) (on the positive side: Almost NO rust anywhere) Will be picking up my new cusco Coilovers and other goodies later this week

Thanks. Me 2 :) Having major head acke removing all the oil and tectyl under the car. Anyone have some tip or tricks for easy removing?

Defibrilating this thread again. BBBzzzzzt!!!... New garage = new motivation. ZG Fenders next on list. Expect fast updates. Stating from scratch

90 euros (+shipping) ?

Had these manifolds made for the yamaha R6 carbs (keihini 37mm), to use on my A12 engine. Now for sale. Bids!

Hmmm... not a bad idea :) To bad the AE86 was never sold here in norway so no part to get hold of. S13-everything:

I`m probably going for a S13 rack, and just cut it a little. My box orginal box is shot. I belive 2" to be the most you can posibly move it. Probably a little bit less if you dont want to use a hammer. It worth noting that the subframe sits realllllly low under the car. about 1,5 - 2" lower than the standard x-member. I realy did not care, since I get the motor as low as possible in relation to the body. But it is realy the lowest part of the car by far. Also the 120y mountingpoints for the caster-rods gets way to high, so s13 ones will have to be used, or custom fabricated. I`m also planing the s13 irs, but dont have a welder in my little garage, so will have to wait... :)