Tech-guy

Thanks for all the great information guys.

I put Maxima rear disk brakes on my 510 but kept the 3/4 inch master cylinder. That combo had more pedal travel than I like. So, I went to 15/16 inch master cylinder. I like the pedal travel but the pedal effort is very high. I am thinking about adding a power brake booster. But there is not a lot of room, especially since the engine has dual Mikuni carbs. Does anyone have a suggestion as to which power brake booster would most likely fit?

Thanks guys, I did find a used one which was in good condition.

My fuse box is cracked and I would like to replace it. My box has 2 large multi-pin connectors and 3 individual wires; one white, one black/white, and one red/white. Fuse boxes I have seen online do not have the red/white wire. Are there some simple wiring changes I can make that will allow me to use the fuse box without the red/white wire?

If I put a 280ZX 5 speed on a L20b, which clutch parts (pressure plate, disk, bearing, slave cylinder, and master cylinder) should I use?

The 23 tooth pinion gear works perfectly. Indicated speed now matches GPS. As for GPS accuracy: I checked GPS speed vs speedometer speed in both a 2013 FRS and 2008 Mazda 3, in both case they matched. I do not know what this 23 tooth speedo pinion came out of; it was an optional gear available for several different 5 speed gearboxes.

I have one of those sleeves with a 17 tooth gear installed. email me at: Richard-crowell@wowway.com

I would like to put black windshield wiper arms on my 510. But, what I find on-line are silver. Can anyone recommend a place to buy black wiper arms. I could paint the silver ones black but I am a poor painter.

It is a 280zx 5 speed with a 4.11 LSD and 195/60R14 tires. Driving this car in 5th gear at an indicated speed of 70 mph, my GPS unit indicates 64 mph. So the indicated speed is 10% higher than the actual speed. I removed the pinion gear and counted the teeth: there were 21. In order to reduce the indicated speed by 10%, I need to increase the number of teeth by 10%; which in this case is 2 teeth. So a 23 tooth speedo gear will give me very close to the true speed. Oh yes, I found a 23 tooth gear up in the NE.

I am looking for a 22 or 23 tooth speedo pinion gear for a Datsun 5 speed. Part number 32703-86402 or 32703-86403. Nissan no longer makes the part. Does anyone know another source for that part?

On the brake hydraulic distribution block located on the left side of the engine bay, what is the electrical connection for? I cannot find it on any of the wiring diagrams that I have been able to find.

OK, the mystery has been solved. The brake master cylinder mark only as "AB-02" has a 0.75 inch bore.

After milling the mounting surfaces to be truly parallel, the slight misalignment of the brake pads relative to the rotors has disappeared. They now make contact across the full face of the rotor.

Rebuilt master cylinders do not come with reservoirs. I read something on another forum (do not remember which) suggesting that Tilton plastic brake reservoirs would fit on a 280zx master cylinders. Can anyone confirm that? Is there another source for reservoirs?

I also recently upgraded my rear brakes to the same configuration: Maxima calipers and 200sx rotors but I did not install a manual proportioning valve. After an initial 2 mile drive using the brakes hard I was disappointed in the weak rears. I inspected the rear brakes and saw that on both the left and right the pads were not making contact across the entire surface of the rotors. On the outer side of the rotors the pads made contact on the outer one third of the disk. On the inner side of the rotors the pads made contact on the inner one third of the disk. Bottom line is that the pads are not totally parallel to the rotor, they are skewed slightly! This could be due to the mounting surfaces on the adapter plate not being totally parallel. With pressure on the brake I could observe good contact between brake pad and rotor out near the edge of the rotor. But there was an observable gap between the pad and the rotor near the axis of the rotor. I tested the gap with an 0.008 inch feeler gage and it would not go in. I have removed the adapter plates and plan to have the two surfaces milled parallel. The other possibility is that the backing plate mounting surface where the adapters mount is not totally perpendicular to the axis of the rotor (rear axle). On a drum brake system there is no reason for that backing plate surface to be highly controlled. This may all be a mute point because after some miles the pads will wear in and make contact across the entire rotor surface.