rollinsrods

Just had the first aftermarket brake and the second one was matched up to the original and was 1/4" bigger all around. After cutting the second, it went in fine. Looks like what is being produced right now with aftermarket will need trimmed before install.

Mike-exactly what I was planning. Great score, Charlie69! Bought it a few months ago on a tip from a friend at the bar! Not a factory paint job-seems Maacoish. Even blue masking tape pulls the orange off... :sleep: I want to get the pin striping copied and cut so I can paint it and replace the old school stuff afterwards. MCordero8-thanks! I think so, too! Orangie-a good, sunny day shows the same as the flash pics, so I always suggest hitting the core support with high temp black, even with a silver or other colored grill-makes the grill pop quite a bit. Most American muscle cars have that stock just for that reason. I am also not opposed to seeing shiny high quality radiator through the grill..JMO. Not as nice as my other truck, but great to DD while fixing up the other one. I'll get more pics up when it isn't raining constantly and the holiday travels are over with. Currently an L20b with a 32/36 Weber, 4 speed, 3 inch lowering, 69 Camaro front lip, and Saturn alternator.

Looking to be my DD while my other 620 gets some more love...The orange behind the grill's gotta go when the lip gets trimmed and bent. Loving the old school stripes-so it's hard to paint over this one.

If it is about the long run and not keeping with stock-I would always go with the Weber. More people running that carb means parts availability will be better for longer. IMO the hardest part of owning older vehicles is close availability of parts. As far as emissions goes, tune it right and pay attention to your vehicle-not the distractions like music, passengers, etc. I've witnessed 30 vehicles two to three decades apart, all on the same testing equipment and the oldest one ran cleanest. It was my 1967 Dodge Coronet 318 2bbl in a class with newer Hondas, Fords, you name it... It just goes to show that paying attention to your tune is what matters most.

Just did this swap and I added 1/2" outside diameter nylon sleeves to the turnbuckle eyelets. Just drill out center for bolt and grind down to the same thickness as the eyelet. This way eliminates most of that slop between your stock bolt size and the eyelet inside diameter.

yello 620, just went on that link and it finally loaded '77. Don't know what was up with that, all other years downloaded and printed fine. That was a big issue solved nicely. I pulled parts off a '76 with a '77 swap at some point. The guy had a nice handful of Datuns, so I wouldn't be surprised if he moved everything over to get the nicest body running best. I guess I'm just getting trucks around here with swapped stuff. Not surprising, looking at the major changes over a short period. Still different, coming from an Amerian muscle car background when everything was pretty similar wiring with body style. My bad, time to learn more Datsun...

Does anyone have cutoff dates (approx) for wiring updates on 620s? Engine harnesses are never the same that I find. I don't know if I'm constantly running across swaps/upgrades or if Nissan had an overlap in harnesses. The color coding is ridiculous considering it's a 6 fuse/ 35 amp system on the same body style over 8 years with essentially the same engine. I have 2 1976 620s and their harnesses are significantly different, as are almost every 620 I've found at salvage yards. I'm not just talking added features-color codings are driving me insane. I'd rather not unwrap every harness or ohm every wire to find out what wire ends up where. LOVE THESE TRUCKS! I'd like to approach mine like they are as simple as they seem. Datsun Mike or some other senior member, please help. Even a link to a reputable source for diagrams would be great!

Seriously? That's your response? I'm not telling you how to live your life. Just appreciating Datsuns and noticed a potentially disastrous situation. Sorry for looking out for other members...

Whoever owns the yellow goon with the red passenger fender from Oregon-please change your right front tire ASAP! You're puting your Ratsun, your life, and most importantly-other people's lives at risk driving on that tire. Don't know the story behind the bald tire, but avoid that as much as possible-especially at highway speeds. Just coming from someone that's worked in the auto industry and tire business, and had blow outs when I was younger.

Bottom and 2 outside are fuel tank. Center is vent canister in wheel well. Top is license plate bracket. All should be available at a salvage yard for pennies compared to the pain of fab. Let me know which one you need and I'll keep an eye out for it.

Finally installed fuel tank and brackets! All new hoses and grommet in crossmember. Took longer than expected, but hey it's not on a lift and it's tight getting under that sucker! Also installed black two tone grill last night. Next week it goes to the exhaust shop!!!

Picked up my fuel tank brackets, canister bracket, and license plate bracket from the powder coater. Looking forword to installing the tank and routing fuel hose on Monday! [/url]">http://http://s90.photobucket.com/user/121977/media/Ratsun%20gas%20tank%20brackets.jpg.html'>

So should I plug the vacuum fitting on my intake and just run straight to the dizzy off the canister? Anyone know the interchange on a charcoal canister for this? Restriction stay pretty constant, or am I looking at huge differences between Nissans? I always question the Chilton manuals. I'd rather get correct info from people (without my terminology hickup and lack of photos). I've run into a ton of major mistakes in those manuals over the years and factory manuals are $$$. I have a Chilton for my truck but half the stuff seems overly generalized and the other half is missing plenty of info. Thanks for all the help, guys!

Is this something to pick up at the salvage yard, or should I try aftermarket? How should I plumb the lines off it into a Weber 32/36 set up?