BluEvo210

At what mileage do the odometers roll over in these cars? My WHLB310 has 195,xxx miles right now, and the odometer shows it accurately. (It's the trip odometer that has broken. 😟) The aftermarket radio is probably par for the course, isn't it? I can't imagine the original radio surviving this long. I'm pretty sure the 5-speed was an extra-cost option and there are some going around with a 1.2L engine and a 4-speed.

For those like me who hope to afford a carbon fiber hood for their Datsun one day... The Restored web site is still there, but I can no longer find the link to their one-time U.S. vendor. When I went to that vendor's web site anyway (Mastermind) I found that they're still selling Restored carbon parts for the old Celica, but not for any Nissans. :crying:

Yep, that worked! I had a triumphant drive around town this afternoon. :thumbup: It still idles quite rough, as if it's not using all the cylinders. I may yet want to look for jets and clean them out. But, should I also take the spark plugs out and see if they all look the same?

The wires are completely broken. When I touched them, they felt brittle. I ordered a new solenoid, thinking it would be nice to fix. I had no idea it could be causing the whole problem. :hmm: ...And RockAuto sent me the wrong part. I filled out their online return form yesterday. Are they pretty good about returns?

I think I need to try this next. Your Datsun ran rough when it warmed up? Mine won't run at all when warmed up. Either I nurse the gas pedal (hold it at 2000rpm or so, if I'm in the driveway), or it sputters out. I bet I just have a worse version of the problem.

So, you got some 280ZX front struts, and modified them to splice on Ground Control coil-overs? Great respect to you, sir. (I can't even figure out why my B310 doesn't run this time.) What spring rate did you use? Can you tell us what front alignment you ended up with? Is that -2 degrees of camber?

I suddenly have 2 3 regrets: * I haven't done these mods to my 210. * I can only "like" this post once. * I can't save these photos!!!

Heck, since my previous post, my distributor cap and rotor button went out again. I was silly and thought "I just replaced the cap and rotor a few years ago. It must be something else." Nope. Spent money on parts that didn't help, a mechanic friend tried different things, and it turned out to be the cap and rotor. :rolleyes: I can't have put very many miles on it since I previously changed that stuff, so I'm starting to wonder if these things just have a "shelf life". These are some of the least expensive things you can change, and even I can do it, so it might be worthwhile. My latest problem is I live in Virginia now (Virginia Beach = :poop:) and my Datsun failed inspection because the driver's side seatbelt is frayed. Not because it won't retract, not because the brake feel is sketchy, or because the clutch pedal stopped working minutes after the inspector handed me back the keys...

Thanks! I found my silicone sealant, took off the water outlet neck, and saw what I had done wrong...as a result of trying to work when it was too dark. The cylinder head has a circle cut into it for the thermostat, and it's visible if I'm working in daylight. :rolleyes: Once I saw it, the thermostat sat neatly in place while I bolted everything together around it. No more leak! ...And the car runs like normal again! No more bogging down whenever I try to pull away from a stop sign. Maybe my gas mileage will go back up now. :D

I'm back with more questions. I decided to change the thermostat, and when I got the old one out it was in peices. ...So, water has been flowing pretty freely. I scraped out the old gasket and put in a new gasket and thermostat. I can't find my manual right now (which is pretty frustrating)... ...Anybody know how much I'm supposed to torque the bolts for the water outlet? I started the car and verified that it's not tight enough, and it drips water when running.

Thumbs up for replacing the front fascia and not getting aftermarket ricer stuff in its place. :thumbup: Does it have the electric shoulder belts that slide on the rail over the door frame? If so, you may be interested to know that S14 seatbelts are almost a direct bolt-in. I put some in my 1992 S13, and I've been meaning to take photos now that they're in.

I think I solved at least part of the MPG mystery. I was trying to change the fuel filter (in front of Advance Auto Parts) and realized the adjacent hoses were brittle and cracking. I replaced the hoses, and the car ran better. Driveability below 2500rpm is much improved. ...but the fuel smell got worse on the way home. I looked under the hood and the fuel return line looked wet. I touched it, and my thumb tore it open. Wide open. Need to get new hose before driving it again. Soooo...next tank of gas the results might not suck so bad.

Update: I'm starting to think something is installed incorrectly, or the spark timing might be out of spec. It's hesitating a lot when I try to pull away from a stop, and it's getting really crappy gas mileage. I'm driving on rural roads at 65mph or less, and getting 26mpg. I think I should be getting 40+ in these conditions. I looked at my factory manual, and it seems to assume I'm a mechanic and I know how to adjust timing. :rolleyes:

Supposedly, the distributor advance plate was broken, but a new distributor didn't solve the problem. The timing chain was the next thing to check. It's bizarre, but it was the only thing left that made any sense. Whether the mechanic was honest, or made up a story, I'm not going back to him. Too many communication issues, and he was too far out in the boonies.