I used a pittman arm puller from Autozone along with my air impact wrench. I got it hand tight onto the arm first and then I blasted it with my air impact. Came right off. Probably not the safest way to do it, but...... Drilling those damn holes were the hardest part for me. That is some tough metal! Make sure you get a solid one that fits right. The ones that pivot slip off for this job.
MantisX
Thanks. I used redeyes mounts. It's a tight fit, but they put the engine pretty much where it needs to be. It's a tedious swap, but in my opinion, not overly difficult. If I can do it, anyone can!
MantisX
So the unpredictable nature of a blowthrough carb setup was very fun. But I wanted a little more stability in my mini truckin life. I went ahead and put a SR20det in. Its dead reliable and it starting on the first try is the highlight for me lol. With that said, im pretty sure the turbo carb setup I cobbled together was faster haha. Im already dreaming of ways to get more out of this thing.
https://i.imgur.com/pXoNz6k.mp4
Well the guy that made the samurai swords on the side must've forged my steering arms because I cant drill them and one machine shop has said they cant do it. Im taking them to another machine shop but I had no idea that this would be the hardest thing about this swap! I even got a cobalt drill bit and it did better but ultimately gave out!
Well you sir are a trooper. I couldn’t get my bits to cut it. I even tried slowly increasing bit sizes. So I took the arms off the truck and to a drill press. Same result. So I’ll be taking the arms to a machine shop to do it.
What kind of drill bit did you use?
MantisX
The passenger side mount gave me the most grief lining up. So I removed the driver side rubber mount to get better position on the passenger side. Once I got the passenger mount to fall in, I lifted the engine just enough to get the driver side rubber bolted up and sat it down. I havent gotten around to putting the trans on yet as im waiting for a clutch. I may end up having to drop the engine to get the trans on, but my eyeball measurement says the trans should go on without having to move the engine.
MantisX
Here are some pictures so that others can see how these mounts place the SR20det. Im very happy with the fitment. I had a mini stroke getting it in there but I have that issue with every engine I put in/take out.
Also, visual proof that the aluminum engine is alot lighter. Ill need to lower the front end again lol.
The only clearance issues ive run into so far is the wastegate and the alternator. A slight shift in the wastegate mount should clear it easy. I am going to try a few things to try to get the stock alt to work, but if not I will go the Justy route.
Thanks Redeye for a great product!
MantisX
Thanks Hainz. Sorry, I meant the lone black ground wire thats above the starter solenoid wire in the diagram. Is this meaning ground in general, or is there a specific ground wire out of the harness that I need to ground?
Thanks
MantisX
Ok, Ive located all of the wires in the diagram except ground. Am I looking for a black wire coming directly off of the ECU connector, or is it a black wire in the same set as the other 8 wires?
Thanks
MantisX
With a T25 turbo, lightly grazing the gas pedal should build 45psi in 1st gear. I feel your pain Jalj47, I gave up on finding a KA where I live as well. SR20 it is!
MantisX
I see what you guys mean. But, should'nt the carbs only go lean if im decelerating in gear? In my example above, I was decelerating out of gear which means the engine should idle as it would if im sitting still right?
MantisX