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wayno

Member Since 16 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:28 PM
*****

Topics I've Started

Electronic Ignition Upgrade for your Datsun 320 Truck

07 February 2017 - 09:30 PM

I have done a lot of upgrades over the years, but I have to say right now this is hands down the best upgrade I have ever made to a 320, my 1963 Datsun L320 has been a bitch to start for years, everything had to be perfect for it to start and I still had to turn it over quite a while before it would even try to hit/start, well yesterday and this morning I modified a matchbox distributor, put it in the truck, wired it and I removed everything(wires) that would smoke my harness/generator as it is still positive ground, wired the EI distributor to the EI coil(neg ground), made it so the starter would work, pulled the choke on, pumped the pedal 2 or 3 times, I left the key in the off position and made sure it was in neutral as I am doing all this from the engine compartment, gave the coil power, hit the starter trigger and that thing started in less than a second stone cold, never in the entire time I have owned it has it started like that even after it was warmed up, shut off, and started again.

OK, this is how I did it, first you need a matchbox distributor from an L block(Hitachi D4K) from a 1979 Datsun 620 or a 1980 Datsun 720, and you need your E1 or J13 series distributor, there are likely other L block cars that had the matchbox also.
The Matchbox I used had been in a pile of distributors outside on a shelf under my patio roof for years.
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You need to remove this gear from you 320 distributor(it's a bitch, has solid pin).
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or from your J13(a lot easier, dowel type pin)
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then you need to remove the gear from the Matchbox distributor.
DSCN6466.jpg, Now you put the 320 E1 or J13 drive gear on the matchbox, I also used the J13 mount bracket, I believe that is the easiest one to modify.
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This is Mikes photo, you have to file this hole open a little on the J13 mount bracket to fit it to the matchbox housing, I also cut the other end of the bracket off just past the other oblong hole.
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You can see where I cut it in this photo.
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This is what the plate looks like mounted on the block, you can also see better how I cut it.
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OK before you put the dowel pin in your going to have to buy one at the hardware store as the solid pin I hammered out got ruined as it did not want to come out, and the dowel pin for the matchbox gear is too short, you are going to have to orient the drive gear in the correct position on the shaft, standing at the side of the engine you want the rotor pointed at around 2pm with the vacuum advance pointed the same direction, around 2pm, you can also see in the photo below that the matchbox gear pointers inside the distributor are aligned.
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The small side of the drive gear will be towards the front of the engine, by the way your engine should be at TDC.
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The mounting plate needs to have the oblong hole pointed towards 2pm also, this is the bolt that mounts the plate to the distributor.
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Now if the plate is on correctly, the rear oblong hole will be towards the rear of the engine, and that is the hole used to mount the distributor to the engine.
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Now if everything has been done correctly, the top front spark plug hole on the cap is number one, the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise.
Now you also need an electronic ignition coil, and I repeat, this is a negative ground setup.

I will update this post when I think of things I should have put in the post, or when you good folks point out something I have forgotten. icon_e_smile.gif
 

I have a problem here

13 October 2016 - 09:53 AM

I have an issue that only happens when I am logged onto Ratsun, I have 4 windows open, and it never happens in any of them other windows, it only happens here on Ratsun when I am logged in.

I get this page with a lot of red and white, it has a women's voice telling me I need to call this number, (877)505-0004, I searched this number and this is what I found.

 

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I got this pop-up message on my computer: "A username and password are being requested by http://sub.inconsistentog.top. The site says: “Security Update Error 0xB6649373 Help Desk: +1 (877) 505-0004 (TOLL-FREE).” Also a Firefox browser tab was open. The URL read "data.text/html;base64.PCFETONUWVBFIGh01..." A fake Security Essentials panel said "PC status: At Risk." Under that it said "There was a dangerous try to get an access to your personal logins & bank information..." The rest is written in more poor English, with another fake notification box that said "Windows Security Essential wasn't able to block virus... windows couldn't install the definition update" and to "Please Contact Help Desk: +1 (877) 505-0004 (Toll Free). I used Task Manager to shut down my browser, then ran Malwarebytes which found nothing wrong. I believe this is a phishing attempt by hackers in a foreign country and can be safely ignored. Do not call the number because that will give them your phone number.

 

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Has anyone else on here had this happen?

I repeat it only happens to me when I am logged in on here, if I am not logged in it does not happen, and it don't happen anywhere else either, just when I am logged in on Ratsun.

 


Email Solicitation(Ratsun???)

22 September 2016 - 12:39 PM

I have started this thread because I have an email I received from a guy named "Venu Gopal", and he says he is selling a website

named OIC.io, I was wondering if anyone else received anything from this guy, as "OIC" is something that is pretty much a Ratsun thing.

He actually says he is auctioning it off on "Flippa", I am thinking scam, and wonder if others on here have received anything from him.

Do not open anything if you have.


LZ23 question

24 August 2016 - 07:47 PM

So I had another Z22 block built, but I might have screwed up.
The first one I had built was made out of a late Z22E with EFI block from a car, and it turned out great, everything looked normal when I put it together.
Today I went and picked up the second one that I am in the process of building and the pistons on this one don't come all the way up to the deck of the block like the first one I had built did, they come up about 3mm short, I am a little worried now about my compression ratio.
So I started looking into why the two block builds would be different and I went to the Jason Grey info on here and found this below, what may have happened is that the first block I built was a late Z22E with the 149.5mm rods, and this block was a Z22S with the 145.9mm rods, so this seems to me to be a problem, or my first block I built doesn't have 8.9 to 1 CR I thought it had, it is likely higher, maybe a lot higher.

Connecting rods 
Center to center length, all use the same 21mm diameter piston wristpin. 
L18, L28, L26--------------130.2mm 
L16, L24---------------------133.0mm 
L13----------------------------139.9mm 
L20B, Z22S, early Z22E-145.9mm* 
Z20S,- ------------------------??** 
Late Z22E-------------------149.5m* 
Z20E--------------------------152.5mm 
Z24, KA24-------------------165.0mm 

Does anyone know what the compression ratio will be on this block with a closed chamber head?
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“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein