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Member Since 16 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:55 PM

#1553272 A 521 in Massachusetts

Posted by wayno on Yesterday, 08:40 PM

So does your 72 already have the captive nuts in the door pillar? My 70 does not, and I'm casting about for ideas short of welding onto the inner pilar

You access the bolts to mount the door hinges to the pillar on the inside of the cab behind the kick panel.

#1553262 A 521 in Massachusetts

Posted by wayno on Yesterday, 07:39 PM

The hood gap by the cowl is regulated by the front of the hood aligning with the front of the fenders, the fenders are regulated by the gap between the fender and door, the door gap starts at the rear door gap, so one starts at the door and works their way forward.

Like I said, I don't pay a lot of attention to that stuff, as long as it functions properly, doesn't chip paint, and as long as it is not so far out it looks stupid, I really don't care myself, to get all the gaps even and the same is better than they came from the factory, the ball bearing thing didn't happen yet when these were built, at least I believe it happened later.

#1553223 521 on d21 frame

Posted by wayno on Yesterday, 04:28 PM

Hey Charlie, what I did  was take the stock bulb holders and rip out the positive metal piece in them that supplies the power to the end of the bulb from the circuit board, then I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the holder, then I found 2 clicker pens with springs in them and cut the spring in half, I then removed the wires out of an aftermarket bulb holder and a couple 720 front turn signal housings for the flat ends on them, I put the half spring on the wire and then put the wire into the holes I drilled, I put the bulb in the holder and then tested them and they worked great.

Next I put the bulb holders in the instrument cluster making sure the negative side metal piece left in the bulb holder was on the power side if the circuit in the circuit board on all 4 bulbs, and the wires coming out of the holders were all put together into one wire, I took the 2 wires for the dash lights coming out of the 720 wiring loom and connected one to the plug going into the back of the instrument cluster for the dash lights, the other I connected to the wires coming out of the bulb holders, I used a 4 wire plug for the instrument lights(2 wires) and brights indicator light(2 wires), so now I have the 2 plugs and the speedo cable to disconnect to remove the instrument cluster.

I mounted the 720 dash light adjustment switch in the headlight switch hole in the dash as I am using the 720 combination switch assembly for the lights, wipers, turn signals, and 4 ways, there are 4 holes in the dash, I am using the choke and heater switch holes, the dash light adjustment switch is used for the 3rd hole, and the 4th hole is empty at the moment, I was thinking about using that hole for an e-brake light.






None of the bulb holders uses the negative side of the circuit in the board as that messes up the 720 circuit, I cannot delete that negative circuit in the 521 instrument cluster board because other things like the charge, oil, and turn signals use that circuit also, I could not find any bulb holders that fit into the holes of the instrument cluster as Radio Shack is no more, so this is what I came up with.

#1553219 521 part # thread

Posted by wayno on Yesterday, 04:01 PM

Try Ebay is your best bet, if you have lots of money Kotto Auto Glass in the greater LA area will make you one, search the name, call and ask for Eddie, the guy is not cheap.

#1553176 From France to USA : help please!

Posted by wayno on Yesterday, 12:27 PM

Furthermore, the one in Portland seems to be full of new parts for the price of $ 2600. Is it really possible?

That truck in Portland is not stock, it likely has an engine(napZ) from a 720, if done properly it likely will be fine, but it is not what the 620 came with.

#1552621 Smoking engin possible piston rings

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 05:02 PM

I would just buy a good used L20b, put the L16 oilpan on it and install that in your truck.

#1552617 1980 720 Bed Swap

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 04:55 PM

Im actually talking to charlie right now about both tailights and tailgate


I looked and do not have what you need taillight wise, I have the left side surround with a notch cut out and the bulb assembly, that is it, I don't have a lot of stuff like that for 720s anymore except lenses.

#1552611 1980 720 Bed Swap

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 04:45 PM

It might be alright, not enough damage to warrant a new box, I would try to find the taillight mount bezel and taillight bucket assemblies first.

The missing tailgate is an issue though, I see them for sale every once in a while on craigslist, I believe they are all the same until the change in 85/86, some people like that box better and all kingcab boxes are the same length, so any year kingcab box will fit a kingcab, it's about the wiring of the taillights starting in 1985.

#1552604 Just bought a 521

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 04:32 PM

I have found bad grounds to be a pain in the ass, generally when I have a bad ground when I turn the blinker switch on all my rear lights blink instead of just the light that should be blinking, it happens a lot with my 521 when I have the park lights on, and I cannot seem to figure out which light has the bad ground, I have considered going to LED rear lights just to get rid of the ground issue as they have ground wires instead of using the housing for the ground, but I have a flatbed with round trailer type lights instead of stock plastic 521 buckets.

You can always add new ground wires to the 521 buckets to supplement the original ground wires, we have been lucky not to have them using salt on the roads around here so far, but Portland is testing that option now. :( 

#1552562 The turbo.........does not fit............

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 12:40 PM

I have both my Nissan 720 diesel engines turbocharged, the engines are not tilted towards the driver side, they sit straight up and down, also gas engines are likely different than diesel engines.

That said one of mine is a remote turbocharger, and one come directly off a modified exhaust manifold, the remote turbo engine has the pump turned up(modified) while the other is in the stock configuration, the remote turbo in my 720 is mounted way forward and high beside cylinder #1 and I had to cut the hood to clear the turbocharger, the other is in my 521 kingcab is beside #2 cylinder and it just clears the hood, it is very close to the the master brake cylinder, it is basically 1 inch away from both reservoirs, I had made a heat shield after a couple months of driving it but it eventually rattled/vibrated and broke off, I have grabbed the plastic reservoirs and have never found them to be hot, my brake line is a half inch away also and after driving steadily on the freeway for over an hour my brakes work just fine also, I have thought about rerouting that brake line to the other side of the master away from the turbocharger but never got around to it and eventually forgot I needed to do that, I actually had to re-position the brake master as when I first put the turbocharger in it the brake master was in the way, after looking at it closely I determined that the brake master was angled towards the engine and it worked fine, now it is straight out, clears the turbocharger barely and it still works fine.

I have a vacuum assist on the back of my alternator for the power brake booster, but these trucks with diesel engines came with that stock, this is all very tight in my 521 kingcab engine bay, there is not much room in there, while the 720 has a shit load of room compared to the 521. DSCN6959.jpg




I do not know how hot gas turbochargers run on a gas engine, but this gas turbo on my diesel is for a 1800cc gas engine and I am using it on a 2500cc diesel engine, it doesn't run particularly hot ever, I have seen 1300 degrees a couple times going up a steep hill at 3000rpms on the hiway, but normally it runs at about 600 degrees at 5/6 psi at 3000rpms and raises too 900 degrees on normal hills of less than a mile in length.

You can see in the photo above that I put the pyro sensor after the turbocharger, that was a screw up, there is a place for it before the turbo but by the time I got this far I wasn't going to take it all apart just to mount it in the right spot, at that point I wasn't even sure it was going to work, my other one in the 720 runs the same exhaust temps as this one(around 600 degrees on the freeway) and it has the pyro sensor in the correct spot.

#1552527 1980 720 Bed Swap

Posted by wayno on 20 March 2018 - 09:25 AM

That cross member that the tailgate bolts to is bent up a little on that side, the bottom edge is supposed to be level with the fender bottom edge.

It might be able to be straightened with a little effort as it likely wants to be straight, but one has to know how to deal with it without denting it up trying to straighten it.

#1552280 1980 720 Bed Swap

Posted by wayno on 18 March 2018 - 09:54 PM

Use a trailer taillight converter and get the taillight harness with the box.

#1552279 521 on d21 frame

Posted by wayno on 18 March 2018 - 09:44 PM

I know nothing about new stuff, and like any new stuff they make it so that you need to buy everything to make it work instead of having it adjustable to work with what you have, but they likely do it that way to make money and keep people like me from calling tech and complaining that it don't work. :lol:

#1552235 521 on d21 frame

Posted by wayno on 18 March 2018 - 05:53 PM

I have nor read this thread in a while, are you using the 521 dash cluster or something else?

#1552229 521 on d21 frame

Posted by wayno on 18 March 2018 - 05:35 PM

I just finished putting a 1980 Datsun 720 wiring harness in my 521 work truck and I figured out how to have the dash lights adjustable.

Have you got all your electrical components working?