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Member Since 16 Jun 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:55 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: A 521 in Massachusetts

Yesterday, 08:40 PM

So does your 72 already have the captive nuts in the door pillar? My 70 does not, and I'm casting about for ideas short of welding onto the inner pilar

You access the bolts to mount the door hinges to the pillar on the inside of the cab behind the kick panel.

In Topic: A 521 in Massachusetts

Yesterday, 07:39 PM

The hood gap by the cowl is regulated by the front of the hood aligning with the front of the fenders, the fenders are regulated by the gap between the fender and door, the door gap starts at the rear door gap, so one starts at the door and works their way forward.

Like I said, I don't pay a lot of attention to that stuff, as long as it functions properly, doesn't chip paint, and as long as it is not so far out it looks stupid, I really don't care myself, to get all the gaps even and the same is better than they came from the factory, the ball bearing thing didn't happen yet when these were built, at least I believe it happened later.

In Topic: 521 on d21 frame

Yesterday, 04:28 PM

Hey Charlie, what I did  was take the stock bulb holders and rip out the positive metal piece in them that supplies the power to the end of the bulb from the circuit board, then I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the holder, then I found 2 clicker pens with springs in them and cut the spring in half, I then removed the wires out of an aftermarket bulb holder and a couple 720 front turn signal housings for the flat ends on them, I put the half spring on the wire and then put the wire into the holes I drilled, I put the bulb in the holder and then tested them and they worked great.

Next I put the bulb holders in the instrument cluster making sure the negative side metal piece left in the bulb holder was on the power side if the circuit in the circuit board on all 4 bulbs, and the wires coming out of the holders were all put together into one wire, I took the 2 wires for the dash lights coming out of the 720 wiring loom and connected one to the plug going into the back of the instrument cluster for the dash lights, the other I connected to the wires coming out of the bulb holders, I used a 4 wire plug for the instrument lights(2 wires) and brights indicator light(2 wires), so now I have the 2 plugs and the speedo cable to disconnect to remove the instrument cluster.

I mounted the 720 dash light adjustment switch in the headlight switch hole in the dash as I am using the 720 combination switch assembly for the lights, wipers, turn signals, and 4 ways, there are 4 holes in the dash, I am using the choke and heater switch holes, the dash light adjustment switch is used for the 3rd hole, and the 4th hole is empty at the moment, I was thinking about using that hole for an e-brake light.






None of the bulb holders uses the negative side of the circuit in the board as that messes up the 720 circuit, I cannot delete that negative circuit in the 521 instrument cluster board because other things like the charge, oil, and turn signals use that circuit also, I could not find any bulb holders that fit into the holes of the instrument cluster as Radio Shack is no more, so this is what I came up with.

In Topic: 521 part # thread

Yesterday, 04:01 PM

Try Ebay is your best bet, if you have lots of money Kotto Auto Glass in the greater LA area will make you one, search the name, call and ask for Eddie, the guy is not cheap.

In Topic: A 521 in Massachusetts

Yesterday, 03:57 PM

Most of mine have a 3/16ths or less gap between the hood and the cowl and a 1/4 inch gap between the hood and the fenders.

You must keep in mind that stuff like that is not on my top ten list, I just try make sure that when I open/close stuff it don't hit anything and chip paint.