Aaron

Photoshop. It was the easiest thing for me to work in and separate the colors on their own layers. It took about a night a few years ago, but saved a lot of frustration when I redid the whole wireing in the truck. This is what I had to start with. http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff202/Standaloneae/IMG_0474.jpg http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff202/Standaloneae/IMG_0479.jpg

That's for some smog crap or something. I've removed those on version I did here, The last page shows where those go though. Tore all that out on my truck. The only pedal that needs wires is the brake pedal for the brake lights.

Realized the other link for the wiring diagram I did while doing the rewire for my truck is dead, so here's an new one. 13"x23" (Good size for in the garage) https://docs.google....emZsbmxTd21hS3c Lower Res Version (If anyone has trouble with the download) https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5YNNQ-D8WB4UmhsSUY0Tjc3UkE It's a 9 page pdf doc that hass the full diagram in color with, a page for each indavidual color to help chase down wires, the last page is the orignal diagram with the silly smog equipment wiring still on it. Feel free to share with anyone that needs it. Aaron

Ordered them from rockauto. KYB Part # KG4605A Gas-A-Just Fronts $36 Ea. KYB Part # KG5447 Gas-A-Just Rears $43 Ea.

I was planning on showing up with my 521.

Ok so I finally got all the engine parts back from the machine shop. Here's how it went. Block freshly boared, honed & decked. Masked up for paint. Shiny black. New crank bearings. Pistons are in. Pistons are from a 280. Head and Timing chain going on. Mostly together now and ready to come off the stand. Setup for the flywheel and clutch to go on. Flywheel. Clutch. Mated the tranny to the engine to check fitment. Dropping it in. In and mated to the tranny. Altogether again. First time running. It's a little loud, running with out a muffler. Done and ready to lower off blocks. Now to just work out tuning and some other bugs and drive the hell out of it for a while.

Not a datsun but this guy had the same kind of idea http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ram-rod-30s-style-modern-high-boy-pickup-160512.html

So project got stalled a little while, I've been waiting to get the right pistons for the engine rebuild. Also I pulled off the driver side spindle to take to the machine shop and have them press out the old king pins out and new ones in. No new photos but it took me about a week of spraying penetrating oil and banging on it to break all the nuts loose. That was the last of the dismantling thou, now just to get it all back together.

It wasn't cheep but I found a good shop here in Sac Manual Transmission Warehouse http://maps.google.c...6539792869&z=14 I had the just open it up and tell me what was wrong with it. I knew the 3rd gear syncro was gone and they confirmed it. Replaced all the syncros and a rod that had excessive wear Redid the front and rear seals. Gave me a bag with all the old parts in it to show what they replaced. After all was said in done the price was $450 with a one year warranty.

Ok the wiring pdfs for the 521 color coded. Links below: Lower res file for those with slower Internet (13mb) https://files.me.com...ydesign1/tb5wr4 Hi res file for blowing up to poster size while working in the garage (34mb) https://files.me.com...ydesign1/375f0f Have fun Aaron

The clutch was $95 from rockauto and yeah I think your right that it's just a rebranded japanese clutch. Oh it's got rust and quite a bit of it. The passenger floor is rotting through and the driver side is not far behind. Doors have rust bubbles in the corners and the paint is so thick its starting to crack. The 2002 on the other hand is just wearing out. Engines about had it. It's a survivor and need some attention before it starts going south. It's next in line and will be getting a new under coat, full paint job, suspension upgrade, stage 2 motor with duel sidedrafts, 5 speed and all new or rechromed parts.

Also for all that wanted the wiring diagram, I had to redo it. I lost my final copy of it somewhere, but I'll have it done tonight. Will just post a link to download it here instead of emailing it individually. Thanks Aaron

Thanks, I know what you mean about the disk brakes took me a while to figure everything out. But after doing it I can say mike has put together a really nice kit and it's really straight foreword once you get all the peices together. The main parts you'll need to source are the rotors & calipers off of a '84 720. Hubs off a 620 for stock rims or if your running bigger rims you can use the 720 hubs. I used a master cylinder off of a '79 620 but others will work just make sure it's a cylinder set up for disk drums if your using the stock rear brakes. The threads on the calipers are different and use banjo bolts so new soft lines are you best bet. A hydraulic shop would be able to make some up for you. The bracket mounts on with three bolts, caliper mounts to bracket with two bolts and the spacers go on with a little heat and slide on. Install your new hubs and your ready to go.

The brakes Mikes kit: $275 Rotors new: $40 Calipers new: $90 620 hubs used: $50 New master cylinder: $65 Proportioning valve: $60 And I had new hard lines and braided steel soft lines made up: $170 Total $725 And that's on the high end I could got done for less with rebuilt calipers and going with cheeper options on the brake lines. Aaron

Thanks, It's been a lot of hard work and learning along the way.