650savag

Thanks guys. I did post in the classified. Rock auto has the right side door window for $94 plus shipping. That may be the way to go. I wasn't sure if that was the one I needed.

Should I be looking for right hand side or left hand side glass? Lawn mower slung a rock and knocked out the glass on my cousins 1979 620 standard cab and I'm trying to help him locate a replacement glass for it. It's the passenger side door glass. Is there any place to order a new glass? I don't even know if the king cab glass would fit a standard cab door. Any help would be great. Thanks!

I just recently replaced the Hitachi on my 78 620 with the Weber 32/36 and I used my existing cable and bracket. I think all I did was cut the little ball off the cable and put the one on that came with the Weber. Your carb should have come with the brackets to hook it all up and instructions. I have the brackets and extra stuff that I didn't use if you want mine you can have it free. I can probably ship it to you for $2 or $3 shipping. Let me know if you need it and what your address is. Dan

I wasn't offended at all and I certainly aplaud you for finding the info you needed and glad everything worked out for you. I have learned so much about my Datsuns on here and I just like to help out others when I can.

I din't tap mine out but I could have. I have some pipe taps in the shop and several size tap handles. I worked maintenance in plants for years and was a machinist and tool and die maker for 16 years before retiring in 2013. I knew enough about fitting tapered pipe fittings that if it screwed in by hand 1 1/2 turns that I could make it seal with teflon tape and tightening the crap out of it. If you look at my pics you can tell the nipple that is in the housing did not screw in as far as the end that is screwed into the tee but it sealed and hasn't leaked a drop in about 10 years so for me it was a Happy Ratsun ending that cost me nothing but an hour or two of my time! I understand if someone wishes to use the OEM parts and searches to find the exact size that it calls for. I certainly respect that and it may help someone in the future who runs in to this same issue. For me, it's all about what works and what is the least hassle for me to get the job done and get my truck going again. I knew that I had the option, if it did not seal, to back it out and run a 1/4 NPT tap in there about 5-7 rounds and then I know it would seal. I got lucky and it was close enough to the right size and TPI that it worked without tapping it out!

You may find some good ideas if you read the posts in the thread titled: "Replaced Hitachi with a new Weber" in the "engines" forum. I was experiencing a similar stumble after installing the new Weber and finally got it out by advancing my timing to 15 degrees and changing out the primary idle jet from a #60 to a #65. I actually enlarged the jet to a #65. My L20b engine wasn't actually misfiring but was bogging a little when I would first start to give it has. You could have a vacuum leak also if you recently installed the carb. You probably know how to use carb cleaner to spray around the base of the carb and adapter plates and intake. I had a lot of trouble getting my 32/36 to seal and had to remove it 2 times and reinstall it. I had to wind up lapping the surfaces of the adapter plates flat and using gasket sealer on the gaskets.

This is what I did on my 78-620. I threaded a 1/4 NPT nipple into the lower housing, then used a 1/4" ss Tee to hook up my two hoses. The heater hose fits good on the 1/4" nipple but I had to use a stainless steel tubing fiting for the top (smaller) hose. I had all these fittings available to me (fringe benefits) at the time so I was not out any cost. I don't really know how much they would be to purchase them.

I believe this is the same part I replaced several years ago and I wound up getting a ss 1\4 npt nipple and put Teflon tape on the threads and screwed it in as far as I could and torqued it down good and it sealed fine. I will take a pic tomorrow.

http://rs161.pbsrc.com/albums/t207/650savag/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg~320x480

You stated the pipe size was 25/64 ". Do you have a thread gauge to measure the tpi (threads per inch)? It sounds like 1/8 th npt to me. The od of the nipple is .405 " which is a tad larger than 25/64th. 1/8 npt - 27tpi.

I reamed out the #60 to a #65 size .025 and that little difference let me adjust my mixture screw down from 3 turns out to 1 1/4 turns off bottom and that small amount of increase took out all of the stumble! Thanks again to everyone! Dan

Thanks King Rat and Doc for all the great help. I think I have the stumble issue solved and hopefully the "hard starting when hot issue" also. The bogging issue turned out to be the primary idle jet just like several of the great comments suggested. After I got my timing set right, I pulled the primary idle jet out and it was a #60 If I understand correctly, that indicates that the hole through the center is .6mm. Instead of ordering the next size jet, I chose to employ some "Ratsun engineering". I will post a pic, but what I did was grab one of my tip cleaning sets (I have about a dozen of them lying around the shop), and took it apart and measured the sizes with my Starrett dial calipers. The tip cleaners have a smaller, smooth diameter for the first 3/8ths of an inch and then the serrated diameter starts which is a tiny bit larger od (like a tiny round file). The third from the smallest measured .021 and .023 respectively, and the 4th from the smallest measured .023 on the smooth end and .025 on the serrated od. So, according to my calculations, .6 mm is .0234 which is what the hole in the #60 jet measured. to go up to the next jet size, I needed to open it up to .025 or maybe a tad larger. .7 mm = .0273 so I didn't want to jump a whole size just yet. So I took the tip cleaner that measured .021/.023 and reamed the hole out until the next size tip cleaner (.023/.025) would barely slide through the hole. I reinstalled the jet, set my idle to the slowest idle that the truck would run at. I was then able to adjust the mixture screw and got a real smooth, slightly faster idle at about 1 1/4 turn off bottom. PERFECT! I raised the idle up to 700 rpm, closed the hood on my truck and took it for a spin! Absolutely no more hesitation, bog or stumble and it honks!! I am stoked!!! I will know more about the hard starting issue after I drive it some more Thanks for all the help that I have gotten on here!

Thanks Lockleaf! I will check out that book on Amazon. I was surprised to find it was not set up at all out of the box! The first thing I checked was the mixture screw and it was set 9 1/2 turns out. I knew that wasn't going to work. The auto choke would not close at all so I had to set the tension on the spring and also both idle screws. The only thing I haven't done is change out any jets.

Thanks, Turbo! I can see where trying to time it like that could be inconsistent with too many variables. I will wait until tomorrow and set it with the timing light and then maybe tinker with the carb after I get that set to 12 degrees. It's possible that I still have a small vacuum leak that I can't detect with carb cleaner. I have it completely desmogged and everything plugged and the egr blocked with platecand gasket. It runs so much better than it was with the old stock carb on it that I'm content to put up with the very small lag. It really romps and stomps all the way through the throttle range especially when the second throttle plate starts coming in. It never ran that strong with the Hitachi so I'm not going back. The hard starting when hot seemed to be much better today after I smugged up on the carb nuts. That seemed to have eliminated the tiny vacuum leak. I took it for a test down the highway and was running it up through the gears (not pushing it to the 2d throttle plate but close). When I started to go to 5th, I looked at the speedo and it was up to almost 70! I bwas shocked because it never ran like that with the old carb. I will update tomorrow after I check the timing!

Thanks guys! I will put a spot of paint on the pulley notch before I try to adjust the timing. The way I checked it manually was I took the cap off and bumped it around with the starter untill the rotor contact got close to the #1 position (I had marked it before removing the cap). Then I turned it by hand untill the rotor contact was dead on the #1 position. When I looked at the pulley, the notch was past the 20 degree mark on the plate. Probably like 5 degrees past. I figured there was some slack to deal with but i still think it !might be advanced too much. Would you call that advanced ? Would it still run OK there? What would cause it to move because no one has ever worked on the truck that I know of and it has 116,000 actual miles on it.