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Archie

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About Archie

  • Birthday 05/23/1955

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sarasota, FL
  • Cars
    86 Nissan Hardbody, 2000 Grand Am & several Mopars
  • Interests
    Boating, Muscle cars, car restoration
  • Occupation
    Civil Service

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  1. Yes but it ran dry at one point, so I re-bled the master, on the vehicle, before bleeding the rest of the system... THX
  2. Hello All, Installed new clutch and new slave cylinder. Clutch Master cyl was replaced less than a year ago. I have bled this system four or five times, starting at the Master, then the valve thingee on the firewall, ending at the slave cylinder. I have to pump the clutch pedal a few times at first to get enough pressure to shift into gear. After driving a bit and shifting through the gears, the pedal is nice and firm with perfect shifting.. Next day, same problem.. Could the master have failed????? I am quite sure I got all the air out of the system... THANKS
  3. Well I finally pulled the tranny out and split the case. Sure enough, the 5th / reverse gear shift rod was bent.. (Installed a new reverse light switch into the tranny that was a 1/2 inch longer than the correct part!!!!!) That $12 WRONG part cost me a lot of time..... Anyway, I was able to straighten the rod while still in the tranny. It took a couple times of putting the front tranny half on & off to make sure it shifted ok. The tranny is back in the truck with a new clutch kit and all is good!!!!!! It is amazing how many different switches were "the correct part" but turned out to be wrong in one way or another... I finally, after several different local parts stores, found the right switch....FROM EBAY!!!! ON TO THE NEXT PROJECT!!!!! :thumbup:
  4. Hey Guys, The world has changed. Us DIY er's are Fucked!!!!! I had this driveshaft issue with my '87 D21. I found the same size ujoints that were made for a pto shaft and were like $12 a piece. I couldn't use the inside "C" clips because the of the yoke design. So I Lightly "C" clamped the joints into the yokes to make sure they were snug and centered. Then I lightly tack welded the caps to the yokes...That was well over 50,000 miles ago and all is fine!!! :thumbup: It is great to be able to give the joints a shot of grease once in a while.
  5. Well I took a look with the bore scope. It wasn't a real clear view, but looks like the sensor screwed up against a shifting fork. Probably bent the shift rod just enough to bind the mechanism, preventing shifting. Oh well, another blunder to add to the record book!!! :( Better check the rum stock before I pull this tranny out!!! :thumbup: I was going to try and repair it, but I think I will just use another 5 spd I have from a prts trk and call it a week........ THANKS for all the input !!! :thumbup:
  6. Shifter will go to the right, as if to go into R or 5th, but will not move forward or backward, hence not go into gear.....
  7. Yep, got nuetral gate and no 3,4,5 and rev.... I can drive the vehicle in 1 & 2 no problem. Shifts nice and easy into 1 & 2..
  8. Yes the shifter will move all the way to the right and shifts into 1st & 2nd fine.. Before I remove the check sleeve, should I drain the gear oil??
  9. It is on the front case, just behind the slave cylinder/clutch arm on the passenger side. The shift boot is at the back, on the top of the trans????? I find it hard to believe that a 1/2" would do anything either, but the trans shifted perfect prior to messing with this switch. And the end of the switch was boogered up a bit, like it rubbed on something. Any other suggestions to determine the problem?? Should I pull the shifter and if so where do I go from there? A mechanic @ work offered his bore scope, so I am going to try and take a peek inside. The thought of pulling the trans has me reaching for the RUM bottle!!!!! :crying:
  10. Hello All, I believe I did a major boo-boo to my 4cyl, 5spd manual transmission on my D21. I had to change the "reverse light switch" on the transmission. Not CLOSELY comparing the new sw to the bad sw, I quickly installed the new switch, so I wouldn't lose a bunch of gear oil. Suddenly, I only have 1st & 2nd gear, I can't shift into 3, 4, 5 and rev..... I pulled out the new switch to find the end was slightly messed up. I then found that the new switch was a 1/2" longer......... I suspect that I have bent something inside the trans, a shift shaft or fork tube or whatever...... :crying: .I looked into the hole and can see a metal piece that runs front to back, and can feel an indent that I believe I made with that switch. I also had someone try and shift the trans, while I observed the hole and the metal piece did not move..... What the hell did I do??????????? Does this mean a trans case split to replace whatever???? I have looked quite extensively for an exploded view of the trans to maybe get an idea what I must have bent, but have not found one. Any help from my fellow Nissan'ers would be muchly appreciated...... :) THX,,,AL
  11. Morning all, Is rebuilding this tranny difficult? Are special tools, pullers needed? THX :)
  12. Good Morning guys, I found what I needed!! I did a search on "dashboard removal" and whaalla, there was a pictorial with step by step instructions.... :cool: There are 3 or 4 bolts at the top of the dash that I access by removing the 3 defrost vent covers and it should come right out. I will try and copy a link to here for everyone...Not sure how to do that so I might be asking help on that too :blink: THX GUYS :)
  13. I don't have a pic at the moment, but I will take some tomorrow and send them If I don't get any further. I need to have it driveable for work Monday. The core has been bypassed for a while now, so I don't have to put too much back together to drive it. But it would sure be nice to get the old one out tomorrow... Gonna keep searchin too. THX
  14. Nismo, THX for the reply.. I am down to removing the heater box. It is attached behind and uptop somewhere and I can't see where!! Do you have or know where I can see a schematic showing all the connection points?? It seem like the ductwork is holding it, but I can't get the ductwork out!!
  15. Hello All. I need to replace the heater core in my 87 Hardbody PU. Do I need to pull the whole dash???? :blink: I pulled the fan box and the evaporater box, but i still can't get the heater box out..Looks like I need to remove the ductwork too.. Again, I can't get it out.. I have the dash loose at the bottom but I can see bolt heads up in there at the top of the dash... AGAIN, I can't get to them to loosen them. :angry: ....HELP!!!!!!!
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