Archie
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Posts
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About Archie
- Birthday 05/23/1955
Profile Information
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Location
Sarasota, FL
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Cars
86 Nissan Hardbody, 2000 Grand Am & several Mopars
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Interests
Boating, Muscle cars, car restoration
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Occupation
Civil Service
Archie's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
10
Reputation
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Yes but it ran dry at one point, so I re-bled the master, on the vehicle, before bleeding the rest of the system... THX
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Hello All, Installed new clutch and new slave cylinder. Clutch Master cyl was replaced less than a year ago. I have bled this system four or five times, starting at the Master, then the valve thingee on the firewall, ending at the slave cylinder. I have to pump the clutch pedal a few times at first to get enough pressure to shift into gear. After driving a bit and shifting through the gears, the pedal is nice and firm with perfect shifting.. Next day, same problem.. Could the master have failed????? I am quite sure I got all the air out of the system... THANKS
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Well I finally pulled the tranny out and split the case. Sure enough, the 5th / reverse gear shift rod was bent.. (Installed a new reverse light switch into the tranny that was a 1/2 inch longer than the correct part!!!!!) That $12 WRONG part cost me a lot of time..... Anyway, I was able to straighten the rod while still in the tranny. It took a couple times of putting the front tranny half on & off to make sure it shifted ok. The tranny is back in the truck with a new clutch kit and all is good!!!!!! It is amazing how many different switches were "the correct part" but turned out to be wrong in one way or another... I finally, after several different local parts stores, found the right switch....FROM EBAY!!!! ON TO THE NEXT PROJECT!!!!! :thumbup:
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Hey Guys, The world has changed. Us DIY er's are Fucked!!!!! I had this driveshaft issue with my '87 D21. I found the same size ujoints that were made for a pto shaft and were like $12 a piece. I couldn't use the inside "C" clips because the of the yoke design. So I Lightly "C" clamped the joints into the yokes to make sure they were snug and centered. Then I lightly tack welded the caps to the yokes...That was well over 50,000 miles ago and all is fine!!! :thumbup: It is great to be able to give the joints a shot of grease once in a while.
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Well I took a look with the bore scope. It wasn't a real clear view, but looks like the sensor screwed up against a shifting fork. Probably bent the shift rod just enough to bind the mechanism, preventing shifting. Oh well, another blunder to add to the record book!!! :( Better check the rum stock before I pull this tranny out!!! :thumbup: I was going to try and repair it, but I think I will just use another 5 spd I have from a prts trk and call it a week........ THANKS for all the input !!! :thumbup:
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Shifter will go to the right, as if to go into R or 5th, but will not move forward or backward, hence not go into gear.....
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Yep, got nuetral gate and no 3,4,5 and rev.... I can drive the vehicle in 1 & 2 no problem. Shifts nice and easy into 1 & 2..
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Yes the shifter will move all the way to the right and shifts into 1st & 2nd fine.. Before I remove the check sleeve, should I drain the gear oil??
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It is on the front case, just behind the slave cylinder/clutch arm on the passenger side. The shift boot is at the back, on the top of the trans????? I find it hard to believe that a 1/2" would do anything either, but the trans shifted perfect prior to messing with this switch. And the end of the switch was boogered up a bit, like it rubbed on something. Any other suggestions to determine the problem?? Should I pull the shifter and if so where do I go from there? A mechanic @ work offered his bore scope, so I am going to try and take a peek inside. The thought of pulling the trans has me reaching for the RUM bottle!!!!! :crying:
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Hello All, I believe I did a major boo-boo to my 4cyl, 5spd manual transmission on my D21. I had to change the "reverse light switch" on the transmission. Not CLOSELY comparing the new sw to the bad sw, I quickly installed the new switch, so I wouldn't lose a bunch of gear oil. Suddenly, I only have 1st & 2nd gear, I can't shift into 3, 4, 5 and rev..... I pulled out the new switch to find the end was slightly messed up. I then found that the new switch was a 1/2" longer......... I suspect that I have bent something inside the trans, a shift shaft or fork tube or whatever...... :crying: .I looked into the hole and can see a metal piece that runs front to back, and can feel an indent that I believe I made with that switch. I also had someone try and shift the trans, while I observed the hole and the metal piece did not move..... What the hell did I do??????????? Does this mean a trans case split to replace whatever???? I have looked quite extensively for an exploded view of the trans to maybe get an idea what I must have bent, but have not found one. Any help from my fellow Nissan'ers would be muchly appreciated...... :) THX,,,AL
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Morning all, Is rebuilding this tranny difficult? Are special tools, pullers needed? THX :)
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Good Morning guys, I found what I needed!! I did a search on "dashboard removal" and whaalla, there was a pictorial with step by step instructions.... :cool: There are 3 or 4 bolts at the top of the dash that I access by removing the 3 defrost vent covers and it should come right out. I will try and copy a link to here for everyone...Not sure how to do that so I might be asking help on that too :blink: THX GUYS :)
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I don't have a pic at the moment, but I will take some tomorrow and send them If I don't get any further. I need to have it driveable for work Monday. The core has been bypassed for a while now, so I don't have to put too much back together to drive it. But it would sure be nice to get the old one out tomorrow... Gonna keep searchin too. THX
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Nismo, THX for the reply.. I am down to removing the heater box. It is attached behind and uptop somewhere and I can't see where!! Do you have or know where I can see a schematic showing all the connection points?? It seem like the ductwork is holding it, but I can't get the ductwork out!!
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Hello All. I need to replace the heater core in my 87 Hardbody PU. Do I need to pull the whole dash???? :blink: I pulled the fan box and the evaporater box, but i still can't get the heater box out..Looks like I need to remove the ductwork too.. Again, I can't get it out.. I have the dash loose at the bottom but I can see bolt heads up in there at the top of the dash... AGAIN, I can't get to them to loosen them. :angry: ....HELP!!!!!!!