mattykrab

Also, its worth mentioning that Tom stopped answering my emails/calls long ago after promising me reimbursement and then not delivering. I tried not to badger him, but even being subtle and patient seemed to result in ghosting. Not exactly the respectable actions of a stand-up guy. There's no "sides" as far as I see it. There's just a right and wrong in relation to specific deal involving 620 window seals. The dude is and always was wrong. I'm still amazed that there's a sense of defensiveness to it.

Hold on.... since this conversation before you only involved 2 people, who are the "bunch of idiots?" I do feel for the misfortune the guy has apparently had, but there's no great excuse for not reimbursing by now. He played the role of service provider and failed the deliver the service, so I'm owed. End of story. The circumstances are unfortunately inconsequential to me. I never heard any excuse given about wrong dimensions and company refusing to reimburse. That is absolute news to me coming from a stranger.

Haha. I don't care about salt. I just want that money back with interest!

Yikes, really? I was always annoyed that I never got seals or my money back. I honestly feel bad if the dude really croaked, though

Relevant thread regarding this post is here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7161-620-king-cab-window-gaskets/page-22 Hate to dig up a 5 year old topic, but a while back when I owned a 620, there was a guy named Tom (dat620) who had this whole group buy for custom window seals. Long since sold the truck, and it looks like dat620's last post was in 2012. I honestly forgot about this until just now. Did anyone else fail to get a refund on the $100 they sent that dude? I tried repeatedly to get in contact with him, even via phone in 2013/2014, but it seems he just disappeared with most people's money. The old thread was locked before the issue was resolved. What the hell happened? Did he die?

It can definitely connect pieces of metal together, but it won't be pretty. Expect to do a LOT of clean up grinding afterwards. A buddy got one and we found that MAX would blow most welds on sheet metal through, and MIN would generally spatter all over the place. It's pretty awful.

i paid for one set about a couple years ago.... have requested a refund a few times to no avail. Los Angeles, CA

Haha. I bought one, painted it, but have yet to install it. It will indeed cover most of your imperfections, leaving only bits around the vents and some along the bottom. The MAIN reason I've held off on putting it on, however, is that it will completely trap in the inner instrument cluster panel, and the only way to access wires and bulbs behind them, will be to loosen the ENTIRE dash. I'm curious to know if anyone has modified their cluster panels to be able to fit trough the much smaller access hole as a result of installing a dash cap. A better solution might be to find an alternative to glueing the dash cap on...maybe metal snaps and/or industrial Velcro. Or perhaps just a few well hidden and disguised screws. I would totally recommend for an easy $100 dollar eye pleaser if you plan on selling it though :P

Hey Tom, I've PM'd you a couple times to no avail. I'm still waiting on that refund whenever you have a chance. Thanks, and hope things are well

I dunno, I used the 2 ton jack stands under a Plymouth valiant and watched one start to bend! I can show you a picture of it. Scared the shit out of me. I'd only use them on tiny cars.

Here's a few pics: Trying to show my timing plate, it's around the middle of it, so I feel like that's good. But that's with the dizzy rod one tooth off, clockwise. This is where the matchbox would be, but speaker wires are coming out instead... ....They lead to this, which is mounted with a couple of long sheet metal screws just beside the coil. The casing has a good ground wire to the body. I went ahead and grabbed a Blaster 2 today, along with a new set of plugs. I'm pretty sure this was running with the stock coil before.

hmm.. yeah I'm wondering if the previous owner did a similar thing when they installed the dizzy. I had to throw it a tooth over, because at 11:28, I couldn't get the reluctor to line up...It would only give me 20degrees or more advanced, so I couldn't get it to run less than like 2000rpm. So now it's at 12:05 or so? *shrugs* :P No idea if the timing plate is old or not, because I only have experience with this particular dizzy. Have never seen a stock one. But the matchbox itself was separated from the dizzy and mounted over the driver's side fender..... connected with speaker wire I think! haha. I didnt realize that exhaust heat was an issue for that until watching your video. (good stuff!) Maybe that was the previous owner's workaround Why 11:28 by the way? why not 11:30? And thanks for the advice, dude. I'm owin ya already :)

Yeah i did watch the vids. Thanks! I ended up reinstalling the oil pump yet again, this time a tooth further clockwise and THAT gave me the clearance i needed on the timing plate. I'm not sure why I had to do it all wrong, but after doing that and lining up the star, it fired right up. I did my best to give it a quick timing, but it seemed to want to die under 900rpm at 12.5deg. Compression is pretty though, 150psi in all cylinders, except 2 and 4, which are like 135-140 The whole motor actually seems much more shaky now (i installed new mounts)....and it's making my exhaust bang up against the bottom of my truck quite a bit if it's shaking. It used to happen occasionally when the motor was too low of an rpm. I guess my main problem now is the smoke being emitted from the back of my manifold. Antifreeze is leaking out somewhere there and cooking. Maybe I should just plug up those intake coolant holes again.. hmm.... I only get a few hours here and there to mess with it.... haha. But at least it's good enough to move for street cleaning again tomorrow! :D

After checkin out a few old posts and olddatsuns.com, it seems like the reluctor should be able to line up with the star wheel at TDC. I'm not sure why I can't get it to other than the fact that it's not the stock dizzy.... Maybe I should just start flipping the dizzy rod around on different teeth until i find something that works?

haha... I need to get the basics down first and then I'll start swappin bits. I had to work for a bunch of days again so I haven't been able to do any car stuff. But I'm back on it tomorrow! So, I got a chance to take a glance at my motor again and I have a VERY basic question that I cant seem to find an answer to so far. Theoretically, when the timing chain is installed correctly (mine is dead-on the dash at the 1 position on the cam, crank is dead on zero at the compression stroke), and the oil pump is installed correctly (11:28), should these points be able to line up and touch? This is little on the advanced side, right? And it's spun as counterclockwise as possible with the range of my dizzy adjustment. My assumption was that when the whole system is at TDC, then a good starting point for the dizzy line-up would be these points touching, or being a little advanced. this picture is with the oil pump configured correctly. I tried flipping my dizzy rod a tooth over and I have a similar problem, but it's about that far off on the retard side, as the dizzy is spun as far clockwise as it can get. Maybe it's not a problem? I'm just trying to get into my head the basics of the timing thing and i would like to feel comfortable about slapping any random distributor on, with knowledge of the firing order. Any thoughts?