Apex944

All part's located in Sacramento, CA Brand new authentic metal Fairlady Z emblem $38 free shipping New quarter window glass to frame seals for all 240z, 260z, 280z 2 seater car's. Will not fit 2+2 quarter windows. $40 free shipping New front upper door seals, these are the one's that go into the front door jamb and are attached with the plastic clips to seal the door to the A pillar by the dash. $20 free shipping How to restore your Datsun Z car, like new. $15 free shipping ZAP Z accessory catalog in good condition for it's age. $18 free shipping Take it all for $105 shipped Only PayPal is accepted for payment unless picked up in person. Shipping is only to the U.S.

If I hadn't just bought a ton of AR part's I would have picked this up for my 620.... Great deal, somebody local needs to pick this up ASAP.

30mm is a little over 1 inch more towards the driver, if I remember correctly the MOMO hub is about 3 inches or so in length already. Have you tried sitting in the car and doing a mockup of how it is currently spaced with just the MOMO hub in place and you holding the wheel up to it?

I've seen the 240sx hub suggestions and no they don't work as you've seen for yourself, the hole is to small on the 240sx hub and the "fix" that comes from the people who suggest the 240sx hub as working file out the threads until almost none are left which allows it to barely fit the 240z column. There isn't a readily available hub with a Nardi bolt pattern for a 1970-1978 Z car that I've ever come across. Every once in a while you'll see one advertised as being a Nardi hub adapter for a Z car pop up on ebay from time to time and come from Thailand. Never bought one though as they look like cheap knock off's. There is a MOMO to Nardi adapter but that adds to the thickness of the MOMO hub and spaces the wheel even closer to the driver. I ended up making my own using a trashed 240Z steering wheel, some aluminum stock and using the Nardi wheel for the bolt hole template. Cut off the spokes from the stock 240z steering wheel, determine the thickness of the aluminum stock you want to space the wheel as close or far as you want, use a hole saw to cut a circle to match the diameter of the 240Z steering wheel hub and be sure to cut a circle in the center of it to allow the horn button and wire to fit, weld the two pieces together and use the Nardi wheel to mark the holes to drill and tap.

Well in just the elk grove area you've got- Waterman, grantline, and bradshaw is all jacked again since they decided to tear it up after they just repaved the whole thing. I'm on the border and technically live in Sacramento now though and also drive alot on south watt, power inn, florin, 47th, gerber and alot more. Heck, the speed bumps in my neighborhood are HUGE and I've already caught a little of the exhaust on one of them with the car's current height. I cross a set of rail road tracks at least twice a day too, the kind where if you don't have at least a 3 inch or higher rocker panel to ground clearance and going no faster than .5 miles an hour your gonna do some damage. I've driven a ton of low car's, most of them being exotics and driving anywhere in the Sacramento area is a major pain in the a** with a lowered car. You should have tried the entrance to the warehouse area where my old shop was on grantline and 99, if the car was lowered you had to take the long way out the back and around the corner to get out without worry of ripping anything off the car or getting stuck.

Thanks for the compliments. It's only on Tokico HP's and 280z 185F 200R Tokico linear springs for now. Already cut off the flat coil from the front to make it even front to rear with about a 2 3/4 inch fender to tire gap until I figure out if I want to go to a 60 series tire for more comfort and determine ground clearance before cutting anymore. It's current height barely clears most "obstacles" in the Sacramento and surrounding area's which include steep entrances, over sized speed bumps, pot holes 3 inches or deeper that are unavoidable 90% of the time due to there being groups of them thus leaving you the choice of which one to hit and which to avoid and so on. The other issue is the R200 with stock u-jointed axles possibly bottoming out and causing damage or snapping an axle u-joint and causing major damage if it's lowered to much under stock height. Still working on a solution as the only 2 choices that are reasonably priced at the moment lack a decent LSD option due to obsolete parts and weak unobtainable cv axles. There are "upgraded" cv axle options but with the quality control issues happening I wouldn't even want to chance snapping one due to poor quality. The 300 ft/lb's it has right now will definately do some rear drivetrain damage let alone the Trickflow 170 heads and other goodies that are the next step for the stock block 302 that's in it at the moment that should put it into the 350hp/400trq range. It's mainly a street car so the less I have to worry about bottoming out on something or breaking a drivetrain part the nicer it is to drive for right now hence why it's still sitting so high.

One of the pic's of my car at the photo shoot we did today at the Aerospace museum. IMG_3486 by Chris.Feulner, on Flickr

Not a chance.... A set of 15x7 Enkei 92 wheel's with 225/50/15 Falken tires rubbed both of my front lower spring perch's with a +20mm offset. Stock offset for the 1970-1978 car's is 0mm, I wouldn't go more than a +15mm with a stock strut/spring suspension. Also since you already have fender flares on the car those wheel's will be sunk in way to far as will any other + offset wheel, a quick search on here or over on hybridz should give you an idea of what offset and backspacing you'll need to fill in the G nose flares if those are the type of fender flare's your running. You could use some crazy wheel spacer to space the wheel out to fill the flare with those +33 wheel's but I wouldn't ever trust a wheel spacer on any car. ( can't stand all the cheap people who run those spacers and actually drive near me on public streets with them! ) I'd pass on them and find a proper set of wheel's that will fill in the flares without needing any spacer's at all.

Any chance you've got a working stock 620 tachometer?

PM'd about horn button.

PM'd Price is listed in the 1st post.

PM's replied and price dropped even further, need these gone ASAP

Yep worked out perfect, thanks again. You got a PM.

PM's sent and price dropped.

Located in Elk Grove, CA 95624 SOLD