Labdork

Great info! Thanks guys!

My crank pulley seal just started leaking. The seal was new with a head gasket 2 years ago. Has anybody shimmed their pulley out a little to bring the wear groove off the seal? Other suggestions? Thanks!

Yes!

And THAT'S why I love you guys... Thanks!

I'm looking at the RockAuto parts listings for ball joints and I'm noticing descriptions like "Front Upper" and Front Lower". This is addition to "Front Upper Left" and "Front Left Lower". So, are they symmetrical and interchangeable left to right? Thanks!

I drove to see this the other day. It looks real solid. I'm interested in the 620 4X4 sitting not too far away. Referring to the K/C in Kennewick..

Sounds like Moses Lake might be the ticket. Would make it easier for the Tri-cities, plus the adventuresome westsiders. Sometime this Spring??

Several years ago at Blue Lake I locked my only set of keys in the trunk of my 510. I persuaded EVERYBODY that walked by to try their Datsun key in my lock. As I remember, it only took about 10 minutes before one opened it!

There was just a thread about the Ford 2.3 a few weeks ago! Personally I love that motor. Almost bought an XR4Ti back in the day. The SVT Mustang has a bit of a following, too. Would haul ass in a 620. PM me if you're up in Spokane..

I can't help but want to jump in here and clarify some things. The mixture screw you are talking about is only for the idle circuit. It is what keeps your engine running when your foot is off the gas. The FIRST thing you have to check, is that you don't have the idle speed screw set so high as to be opening the main venturi. If this is the case, the idle mixture screw won't do anything. If your idle speed setting is ok, and the mixture screw DOES affect the RPM, then you do want to set it for max RPM. If it is too high for your liking at this point, set it back down with the IDLE SPEED adjusting screw. If it is cutting out "when you go to get on the gas" that sounds like it could be accellerator pump. With the engine off, you should see a little stream of raw fuel being squirted into the carb if you 're looking into it from above, as you "pump" the gas. This compensates for drop in manifold vacuum as you open the throttle plates (get on the gas). You see, just as you mash on the gas, opening the throttle plates to allow all of the perfectly atomized air/fuel mixture into your motor, you also play a cruel trick on it. You drop the manifold vacuum to NOTHING and without manifold vacuum, the carb is really just a smelly aluminum paperweight. The accelerator pump mechanically helps deliver some much needed fuel to your motor, in it's most urgent time of need. So... check the accellerator pump. If it's working, I seem to recall a way to adjust the plunger travel to possibly increase the amount of fuel squirted and may want to try to get it to squirt more. If it aint squirting, THAT is probably your problem. I apologize for the length of the post. It's just WAY more fun talking carbs than running an automated blood cell analyzer...... :thumbup:

Good info for us others living in Spokane as well! I don't know much about A series motors or I'd try to help. Sputtering usually means carb in my experience...

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4309487416.html Could transport to the West side for gas money...

Did you get this truck from Eastern Idaho? Specifically a little town called Americal Falls? The initial pic looks REAL familiar...

I bought a white wagon from a wrecking yard in Florence, CO one time. Straight bumpers, factory tach. It was a solid enough rig that after a DGV replacement, I used it to tow my 2dr from San Antonio TX to Portland OR. Saved the tach and bumpers, then sold it for $200 more that I paid for it! Gone are the days.... Good luck with your score!!

Nope. They are different. I got some from a 521 and they do not fit the 620.