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mikec

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About mikec

  • Birthday 02/17/1990

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UCLA '12
  • Cars
    '85 720 KC, '89 325is

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  1. hey all! need to finish up my 325ix...so i'm letting go of my project wheels. 16x8 5x114 et40. they're splits, all bolts and valve stems included...but no centercaps :( no curb rash, lips have been sanded and the centers have been mostly stripped. I'd like to get $400 for the set! located in los angeles area.
  2. mikec

    how to plug hella H4?

    okay, so far i've followed (+) right low (R/Blk) and left low (R/Blu) backwards to fuses after splitting from a common (R/G) back to #2 light switch. that switch runs from the battery via a green fusible link/red wire. (-) right low runs a red wire to a relay and ground, as well as #19 'printed circuit' that also eventually runs to grounds. so i guess at this point, i'm wondering if i can run my relay at the R/G common low beam and replace the R/Blk and R/blu afterwards with heavier gauge wire the rest of the way powered through the relay via alternator tap? or would it be simpler to run separate relays for each L/R closer to the bulbs? as for the ground, would that relay need to be upgraded as well, or would the factory setup suffice? *head hurts*
  3. mikec

    how to plug hella H4?

    Oh. My. Lord. i'd prefer to run as little new wire as possible, I was hoping to just run the low beam switch to a relay running power from the alternator out to the h4s, leaving the highs on the factory sealed beam circuit. I'll try and dissect that diagram later tonight.
  4. mikec

    how to plug hella H4?

    Can I relay only the lows or do they all run the same circuit?
  5. mikec

    how to plug hella H4?

    no i didn't....the plug patterns were the same, so i was just playing around with them for kicks. are you talking about something like this? http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/85/nissan/720/driving_lights/165mm_rectangular_to_h4_conversion_bulb_55_60w_.html?3593=125277
  6. hey guys, was wondering if anyone of you other guys have tried running H4 low beams in your trucks? i am having trouble plugging them to make the lights all operate properly; i can get them to osculate or have all four run unevenly (low beam switch on only). changing to plug orientation on each light has a unique pattern it seems....
  7. hey guys, wanted to ask about a little issue i've been having on my '85 nissan 720. recently, while engaging the clutch from a stop i have to ride the clutch considerably more than usual to avoid excessive shudder. i recently replaced the carrier bearing that was shredded and clunking around the tunnel a couple months ago. i've owned, driven and maintained the the truck pretty carefully for 5 years....so it's not an issue of not knowing how to drive or abuse. the original trans was rebuilt 16k ago (after theft), and last clutch was in 2004 (30-40k ago?). the driveshaft was properly marked and aligned when i did the bearing, and no vibrations at speed. definitely feels as though the clutch is grabbing improperly/skipping, but no slippage. i don't drive her that often and this is a recent occurrence that is amplified the more often i drive it. would appreciate your input!
  8. was using these as temporary rollers, moved on an need the space. these originally came off an rx7. very clean with no bends. tires are 205/60, but need to be replaced in the near future. selling them for exactly what i paid: $200 in hawthorne, ca yes i know the are on a 4x100 car...but they're sitting on adapters.
  9. i went ahead and bought the whole unit new. i'm just going to tap out the old bearing and put the new one on to be thorough.
  10. cool, thanks guys. so i can just lock it back in? here's the csb. anyone know the nut size?
  11. i'm in the process of changing out my csb and when i pulled the front half of the shaft from my truck, the trans began to leak out fluid. i dropped the front end down to level out the fluid, but i'm wondering if that's how it's supposed to be or if i'm missing an o-ring or something?the trans is rebuilt and has never leaked before.
  12. i haven't really gotten to the nitty-gritty of the driveline, but i assume there is a ujoing in the middle at the support and one at the rear end. visually it makes sense that having an axle change vertical position either up or down while still 'pointing' in the same angular direction is going to kink the two ujoints to a tighter angle, am i right?
  13. i assume it changes the angle at which the ujoints rotate.
  14. after driving around a little bit, i feel as though the tach is off. out of curiosity, i pushed it while trusting the readout, and at 4k the engine was absolutely roaring. at ~45 mph in 5th i'm still around 2k rpms. is this accurate for a 3.70 diff?
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