Xander_42

Mike, To quote Animal Farm (and butcher it) you're more equal than the rest of us.

If these aren't spoken for I would like them. In Bellevue, I have got a hood and a 4-speed (only missing 3 teeth on one gear), that somebody can take if you'll come get them (do not want to ship). Also in Bellevue is a remote ignitor dizzy that I could never get to work, even though it clearly functioned, that I would ship if you pay for shipping. I should be able to meet up with people Thanksgiving weekend to give this stuff away. Also, if somebody will give me (or sell for cheap) a good, stock bore L20B block, I can then give away a Z20 block that is good, minus needing a bore, deck, freeze plugs and paint.

^This is very solid advice. Fiberglass is basically free (okay, a bit of an exaggeration), carbon is very expensive. I have a recommendation of a place to start: Supplies: -Get some glass (actual glass, I call fiberglass "glass" as well) off the free section of craigslist, glass is a great tool for making flat panels. It is easy to release, scratch resistant, and you can get it for free. -Buy some fiberglass and resin (do not buy it at West Marine, their prices are way too high). For learning you can use either polyester, vinylester, or epoxy (more on this later). What you are looking for is a kind of resin (either poly-,vinyl, or epoxy) referred to as "laminating resin". -Get some wax, wax is a pretty good release agent, you could get actual release wax, or TreWax, or just regular car wax. (As a note about affordable release agents, I've wanted to try out RainX, it's fairly similar in concept to my favorite release agent, but I don't actually know if it works or not. My actual favorite release if Frekote 700NC, it's amazing). -Buy some of the cheapest paintbrushes you can find (seriously, you're just going to throw them away). Process: -Release the glass. Put on as many coats as you can, if you feel like you've done enough coats, do two more. -Cut kit (cut your fiberglass to size). -Weigh out the fiberglass you're going to make a panel out of. -Mix up the equivalent amount of resin, and be ready to mix up more (you're aiming for a 50/50 resin/fiber ratio). -Paint a thin layer of resin onto the glass. -Lay the first layer of glass on and get to stipling. Wait for the resin to cure fully (based on the cure times on the can) Pull the part. Good luck, if you did the release right, and you're lucky it'll pull relatively easily, if not, you now have a part glued to the mold that you'll have to separate by any means necessary. The likely tools are plastic scrapers and putty knives among other things. Now a quick note about resin: Polyesters and vinylesters use a catalyst that the amount you use determines how quickly the resin cures. EPOXIES ARE NOT LIKE THIS!!!!!! Epoxy cure time is not based on the amount of catalyst you use, if you use too much or too little part B (catalyst), the epoxy will not cure to full strength.

I've done a bit of carbon work in my time. I'll try to answer any questions you might have. This is a very brief overview of moldmaking, which will be your first step (and absolutely the most important part of any composite part is the mold, personal opinion) http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/fiberglass_mold_making.php It's a complicated topic, good luck.

Good luck, keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Also, I assumed (it looks like correctly) that the car has a manual fuel pump, because an electric fuel pump would be a necessity.

I just don't follow your logic. If the harness is mostly there, just torn apart, it will be way easier to first get the car running, and then slowly reassemble the rest of it. Painless harnesses are for people that know about wiring, it will be no easier with a painless kit. Also, from what I've heard there are many different 510 wiring harnesses, so getting another one may or may not be of much benefit.

wat?

Dude, getting a 510 running is really simple. All you need are three lengths of wire, a starter wire, a ground strap, and a screwdriver. -Attach ground strap how ground straps attach (if you don't know this, WHY THE FUCK DID YOU TEAR THE HARNESS APART?!?!?!) -Attach starter wire to "+" on batt, and the open large post on the starter. -Wire coil to the dizzy, different depending on if points or electronic, but it's two wires, you can look this up. -Use the third length of wire to jump the "+" on the battery to the "+" on the coil. -Use the screwdriver to bridge between the positive terminal on the starter and the signal terminal on the starter. In this case, the screwdriver is your ignition key. This is not a way to drive the car, but a way to make sure that the battery, starter, coil, dizzy, plugs/wires, and engine are all good, also a good way to give yourself a moral boost, and also to start learning what all of the different wires in the car do. Note: this totally bypasses the alternator, and all of the rest of the car's electricals, so you will have no tach signal, no lights, and will be running off the battery without recharging it. Alternatively: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/02/simplified-start-charge-wiring-diagram.html

Crap, I want those Rikens for my RX-7, good price too. Damn I hate being broke. GLWS.

Wow, mine's not nearly that dramatic. I was driving into town in my 510 back when I was probably 17. Driving through an intersection that I had driven through many times already in my short driving history. It was midday and there was some traffic, not heavy, but some cars around. I was driving 5 over in a 35, and I decided to not slow down for a T-intersection. It turned out I was going a little too fast, so I started to gently slow the car, so as to not upset it. At the apex of the corner, I downshifted to second, but being that I was still a pretty new (bad) driver, I didn't rev match, and the back end stepped out. I think this may have been the first time I really experienced oversteer in that car. Luckily, I knew how to handle it, I counter-steered and caught the car just as it started to slide. The scary part was that I ended up in the lane to my left, with a bumper directly in front of mine. When I looked in my rear view, there was another bumper directly behind mine. The gap I ended up in was barely big enough for a 510. Now there definitely was no fear of death, but damn if I wasn't scared of losing my 510, which I was already really attached to.

Awesome. Been wanting to get a Starion/Conquest for a while. Can't wait to see more.

620 don't have subframes in the way that Camaros and whatnot do, they have frames. People usually talk about subframe swaps when they are talking about American uni-body cars. This means that a you not not just be able to bolt the front half of a different frame onto the cab, and go away. Moving to better suspension and brakes, is going to probably involve a bunch of welding and fab to attach to the 620 frame (or a different frame if you choose to swap to one of those. Additionally in much the same way that 620s don't have frames Miatas and 240s only sorta do. Most Japanese cars do not have front subframes like American uni-bodies, because the Japanese actually understand (or at least learned much earlier) what a "uni-body" car is supposed to be and their cars don't have big half ladder frames under them, the suspension actually attaches to uni-body, except where they use a transverse sub-frame. A transverse subframe is what you have in the front and rear of Miatas and 240s (a term I just made up). Miata rear subframe: It is a subframe bolted to the uni-body that holds all of the suspension except for the shocks and springs. For reference, this is a Camaro subframe: It has a traditional ladder frame shape, and holds all of the suspension, engine, steering, bodywork, etc. I feel like I've left out some of the key information, but I'm tired, so let me know if things were confusing, or whatever. Now I would like to ask you why you want to upgrade to modern suspension and brakes? Here's my personal opinion: You don't need modern suspension. People have been making cars handle with shitty suspension for decades. I guarantee you that a properly sorted 620 with stock style suspension will spank a badly done truck with either Miata or 240 suspension. Taking your time, doing your homework, and keeping a mostly stock system will save you money and be a better truck in the long run. But if you just want to have coilovers so you can say you have coilovers, or if you're just going to stance it and hard park it, or drift it, then I really don't care what you do.

I'm just imagining what dis-brakes would be. Dis-brakes? You mean deez-brakes, can you put deez-brakes right here on dis-truck? Sorry, see Mike's post for an actual answer.

Edit: Cool wheel, GLWS.

I have no idea if this is the case, but I would guess, based on the thread below, that you might be able to drop in the LSD from a Pathy. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26561-lsd-into-my-frontier-win/