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fiveNdime

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fiveNdime last won the day on June 14 2008

fiveNdime had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington
  • Cars
    Turbo 70-510, 1948 Rat Rod &1962 Willys Trucks
  • Interests
    All Datsuns, working on cars, fabrication, Camping, Fishing, Wheeling, Outdoors etc.

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  1. Got time to put the car on the lift. Time to get some things done that have been on the back burner for a while. I'll start with the rear sway bar. Pulled it, painted it and put some new end links on. Not sure why but one broke so now I have to address that. I think I will re-design that link design. I picked up a sway bar from Quickor Suspensions that said it fits a SR or KA swap. Well its close but not bolt in. I'm working with the tight tolerances which means removing coils and cycling the suspension. With that came the need to cut and move the crossmember more. So I welded it into a jig and cut it up. Welded some 3/16" plate over the ends. Then a 1-7/8" x 1/8" wall tube between the ends to tie it together. Its mocked up and looking good so far. The brakes, tie rods, idler arm, master cylinder and a few other issues will be tackled as well. Last but not least is I took the driveline in for service. A ballance and 2 new u-joints. The joints werent bad but they were getting close. I'll try to get some pics up.
  2. Been some time now. The car has sat quite a bit with me driving it less then 10 times a year. I got the bug to get back to work on it. Since the last time I was on here posting about it, it has been street tuned running 10psi. Its scary to drive at times. It made the first trip to Canby a couple years ago. Then to Blue Lake. Its running good but needs more work. Ive put it on the lift for a bunch of new work on my list. First oder of business is to clean up and close up the wiring harness. Build a relay bracket and bracket for the AEM computer. After that will be suspension parts. 1. New front sway bar from Quickor Garage 2. T3 front lower control arms 3. T3 tie rods 4. T3 idler arm bushing kit 5. T3 280zx big brake kit Then its time to pull the trans so it can get a once over and freshening up. New ACT XRT6 clutch that was on backorder but hasnt been put in yet. Its amazing the OE replacement Excedy clutch is holding as good as it is. After all this im going to tighten up loose ends inside the car like shifter cover, stereo, and other misc interior parts. Maybe ill search for new wheels some day but all this stuff comes first so here it goes.
  3. Good to meet you guys and get a chance to chat. I don’t get to the Datsun stuff as much as I used to. I'm just glad to be back in the scene. I will have more stuff to do on the car now that I have it running. Going to do the Intake, injectors, clutch next and then tune for as close to 500 hp as possible for kicks. I would like to keep it at 300whp though. I'm also going to be doing a 300mm disk brake swap up front to stop the thing. Drum will still reside out back for now but may do the disk swap. Also have to figure out a new rear end, I don't think the R160 will work well. My trans is also making tons of noise so I think a re-build is in its near future. Just never ends. I look forward to seeing you guys and others at Blue Lake show!
  4. So I have one of these for the truck if you guys think you want it. Made for the truck. It's a custom laser cut stainless Ratsun emblem. I hope it was okay to make this since I didn’t ask permission to use the logo. Its 2 5/8" wide by 3 5/8" tall. Not sure where it will go, but I will bring it to the show if you guys want me to. I'm still hopeful I can make it to the show. I got my car tuned enough to drive but I have a main seal oil leak to fix and a cooling issue to work on before Sunday. sorry for the large photo
  5. Yeah, that’s the bolt I took out to add water. It needed quite a bit of water to top it off. I had a funnel with a small hose I used before and it worked great. I was able to put it on the lift and see exactly where the oil was coming from. It is from the front main seal and I think my problem is that I drove the seal in a little to far. I have it all pulled out and tomorrow I will toss it back in. I am going to polish up the crank surface though first with a dremel tool to try and smooth it up a bit. I'm anxious to get it out and drive it! Here it is before I took it to the shop. Just parked like I own it lol.
  6. We finally got it. I spent a while using a straw and water. I know it sounds random, but it worked perfectly. I think I may pull the radiator and build a box for the cap to sit up just above the rest of the cooling system. At this point though I have a few more issues I need to address as they rose they’re ugly heads today while tuning. First issue. After shut down I noticed a small puddle of oil under the front of the engine. I was hoping it was the return line for the turbo but not the case. The new front main seal is not sealing. I will pull the balancer and take it to a machine shop for them to turn and polish the surface smooth again. There was a small grove from the original seal and thought it would be okay, but not to my luck. Second issue. I have 1 rather small electric cooling fan on the aluminum radiator. It works good till you sit for extended periods of time or if your in the throttle a lot. Should be able to remedy this with 2 fans to cover more radiator surface. Third issue. Injectors are way to small, but I knew that since I have the factory ones installed right now. That just screws me royal for power right now. I can only pull 9lbs of boost and it revs to about 4k. I should be pulling hard till about 7k with at least 12lbs. I think I will toss the injectors in when we dyno tune since it will screw the current setting up. Fourth issue. Brakes! They suck something terrible. I am going to need to source out something that will work on the 280zx struts, but still clear a 15" wheel which I will probably be going to later. I may end up saying forget it and going with 17" wheels like I have now. I am also going to be pondering the idea of running a different aftermarket intake manifold. We will see, got more important things to throw time and money at right now. Im just super stoked its running well. Big thanks to ETS for top notch help and workmanship!
  7. So I finally got the car to run again. I left it alone and put it on the trailer to haul down to ETS. Once there this morning we figured out there was an issue with timing and so we fixed that. Idle was way off so we figured there was a vacuum leak. Took the intake pipe off and pressurized the engine to about 24psi or so and it definitely had some leaks. We fixed those and kept on tuning. the engine started to run hot and then upon my mistake the radiator cap was only half on so it puked water out. That snowballed into air trapped in the engine so I fought that for a couple hours trying to get the system back to square one. My radiator sits lower then the rest of the upper cooling system so that is why its hard to bleed air out. Once we got the air out I drove it around for 15 minutes and it stayed at 180 degrees and not a degree more. We are still working on it. Its hit and miss to get the help to tune since I stopped by without a schedule, but I had a whole day to kill. I will update the status of its driving later when we do a driving tune.
  8. Took the valve cover off. Checked everything and its all exactly where it should be. I try to fire it up and no go. So I have the wife sit in the car and turn it over while I check where timing is with my timing light. I am not even close. So I end up moving the distributor till it sits in the timing range. Fires up there, high idle again. I havent set it to TDC and checked where the rotor sits now in correspondence to the #1 socket on the cap. I will have to do that later. Also has a terrible stumble in the throttle, really bad.
  9. Hey guys, Question here. I worked on this car all day yesterday and could not for the life of me get it running. Timing was set right internally. I set the engine at TDC on compression stroke, lined up the marks on the distributor. All goes in and lines up as should. I am getting some trying but the car wont start. If it does it runs like shit and dies quickly. I wonder if the plugs are fowled? I wonder if I have a bad MAP sensor even though it was working before I rebuilt the engine. I did have the car running earlier in the day. I was running great but it was idling stupid high around 2k. Timing had to be moved 1 tooth to hit 10 BTDC. I realize 20 is factory but this is turbo so I need to set the timing at 10. I am at a loss as to why it ran before and not now. I'm ready to hand it off to a shop since I have no clue. I'm going to try and figure it out today but I literally spent all day yesterday screwing with it until about 10pm. Neighbors probably didn’t like the backfires. Any ideas are appreciate! On the plus side the engine is in. Just got to get this thing running so I can tune it to make it to Canby!
  10. Crunch time is here for me. Trying to get this thing going before the show and I'm running out of time. I have been busy after work though getting it put back together. Ran a tap through all the main stud holes and installed the ARP studs. Then I dropped on the Cometic head gasket. When I took the head to the machine shop they made sure to polish the head surface instead of just leaving the cross hatch. Its a much better mating surface for the head gasket. I dry fitted the head and made sure it slid on nicely with the new head studs. All was free and clear of any binding so I lubed up the bolts, washers and nuts with supplied fastener lube and dropped the head on. Installed the head and then the cams in correct orientation. Took the engine off the stand and did the rear main seal. While I was doing the timing and tensioners I went to torque down the chain tensioners to proper torque specs and I ended up pulling the threads on one of the upper aluminum holes. I had to wait for the night and head to town after work the next day for the m6x100 thread repair kit. I went to a local place called Parkrose Hardware. That place is a freaking candy store for hardware. I bought a pretty nice little kit for 47 bucks. Tapped the hole and installed the helicoil. Then the bottom hole did the same thing. So, I installed another one on the bottom and torqued it to factory specs. Tossed on all the rest of the normal boring parts. This is how it sits as of tonight. Ready to be dropped in. My Clutch is still on back order so the stock one will have to hold for now. If you notice thats an L-series alternator that I swapped pulleys on to get serpentine ones.
  11. So I've been crunching numbers and It appears I missed on particular measurement. That said I figured out the ring gaps. Here is the way I'm doing it. CP Carrillo Pistons sent a spec sheet out for the specific pistons I bought. Bore Diameter was specified to be set at 3.524". Ring Gap should be BORE x .005". So 3.524 x .005" comes out to 0.01762" for the top ring only. Feeler gauge reads .017 on the nose but its snug. For the second ring the gap size is BORE x .005" +.004 to .008" larger then the top ring. So 3.524" x 0.005" = 0.01762" + .004 comes out to 0.02162". If you add to the .008" it comes out to .02562. My second ring measures out at a snug .024" so its within the specs. For some reason the shop laptop wouldn't let me paste the pic link. Here it is.
  12. I have the B210 Booster, 7/8" master cylinder and a turbo that sits right next to the setup, so I went this route for my brakes. On a road course the pedal feel is slightly firm but really close to like driving a new car. I like it that way, not to stiff. Took the guts out of the master cylinder and welded some caps on. Then I made a reservoir and -4an Teflon lines. Drilled and tapped for -4an fittings. Put it all together and now it clears the turbo just fine. I may yet have to build a small heat shield for either the turbo or master cylinder. Hope this helps?
  13. Had a little down time while the engine block and head were in the machine shop. Started with some more time blasting parts in the blast cabinet. Primed and painted with a black wrinkle finish. Got the block back late Thursday afternoon. In time to get it painted before I started the build this weekend. Took the ugly starter and cleaned it up a bunch. Blasted the outer body and contacts, then sprayed with high temp semi gloss. Sorry for the fuzzy photo. Got some more parts. ARP main studs, ARP head studs, Eagle H-Beam rods, CP pistons, and Commetic head gasket, and ARP rod cap bolts. Head was decked and polished. Block was decked and honed. Then I proceeded with the engine build. Started by cleaning the threads with a tap, and compressed air to make sure they were super clean. Brake cleaned all the mating surfaces and cylinder bores to remove all honing particles as best as possible. I also cleaned all ARP parts and used correct ARP assembly lube. Then I dry fitted the main cradle and ARP studs to make sure there was no binding. All looked and felt good so I clamped it all together dry with some Plastigauge to see what my clearances were. .002" clearances on all 5 mains is pretty tight but in the margin. I then put assembly lube on the main caps and crank surfaces. Made sure the ARP studs were hand tight and put it all together. I went with 4 torque sequences instead of 3, and finished with 60 ft. lbs. Next was to check the ring gaps. This is where I am parked at the moment. So I took the pistons and rods to the machine shop to have them hung and weighed so all 4 were the same balance. The bore was then matched to the spec. sheet that came with my pistons. After checking ring gap I noticed that they are quite a few thousandths off. I will have to wait and call on Monday to find out if they are either the wrong rings or if the bore was bored out to far. I don't have the option to check the bore since I don't have that tool. After that I went ahead and dry fitted a piston. Checked the bearing clearance and that was in range as well, its kind of hard to see but you can see the lines for width.
  14. Been watching this the whole way through from day 1. Props to those who have helped, offered time and sent money. Unfortunately I have been putting all my money and time into my build. Its been a 3 years since I last had it on the road, and its my only datsun to drive. Ive got a thread on here for it. On a side note is there going to be a reicept made for the purchase of raffle tickets so we can write it off our taxes since its going to charity? Thanks guys, and again very proud to see the group coming together for such an epic task.
  15. I've never understood why people have such a hard time with other people's ideas. Should we all build the same datsun? Or maybe all of us should just use factory parts? How about keeping it just Datsun/Nissan? That should give you a great deal of diverse rigs huh. I would never do the V8 thing, but I will be the first guy to support it. Maybe peoples hate is based on the fact that they're own skill set would fail in the attempt to design and build it. I think more often then not its people who simply dont understand and just need to talk crap about someone elses rig because they wouldnt do what you have done. Ive built many vehicles. From custom tube chasis ground up builds, to builds using only factory parts. My latest build involved a 1948 4x4 Willys pickup dropped to the ground and all the 4x4 world got pissed on the forums. What they didnt know before I got the chance to build it, was that I was keeping it 4 wheel drive. It was way more work then just going the same route all others usually go, but why be like others. And Guys, keep in mind that there are plenty of people that hate us with our lowered "ricer" cars. Yes, they still call them ricers in there ignorance. On that note just go for it and keep your dream goin. Good luck with the build.
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