1970 Datsun

Looks like I need to still work on some rust from what I found out from the other forum, but the pics would help out a lot once I get done cleaning the contacts. james

Thanks for the replys, guess I gotta head back to the fuse block and try cleaning everything up better. Will update after rust removal is over. james

I have a topic started in the electric forum on my head light switch problem, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a replacement head light switch setup for the '70 521 or maybe even how to wire up the relay, power, tail and head lights on the cheapo after market two position switches? thanks \ james

Thought about the rust build up so I did use a file and clean up both the fuse box and light switch fuse post. Same results, but the light relay for now is not wired into my light circuit at all from the headlight switch. Does anyone have a diagram for how the original head light switch should be setup for testing? It seems like the fuse box provides power to the switch then when turned on the switch powers the relay which in turns powers the tail/head lights????Right now its seems I am running power straight into the head/tail lights bypassing the relay all together which seems to be overheating the circuit. anyone have any ideas how I can setup the wires so i can at least use the lights for now untill I can hunt down a new switch or figure out how to make one up?

Have a '70 pickup 521. I have posted on this forum before with pics, but been so long since I came back I had to re-register. Will throw pics back up once I get the lights back in shape. When I searched the topic found more info on none working headlights vs. my trouble of "Over-working" headlights. So all lights work with the exception of pass. side markers and reverse lights which need new housings so for now they are disconnected and taped up. Then one morning lost headlights all together and found I blew a fuse on fuse box....upon replacing fuse/cleaning fuse box contacts noticed when lights were on fuse got super hot really fast. Figured got a short so i started witch checking continuity on light switch. There I found out orig light switch had been replaced with $3 two position switch from a part shop. It's the basic 5 post with 15a fuse built in power post, park post, headlight post and two tail light post. Here is were I found first problem: First owner unplugged stock headlight switch from wiring harness and connected 5post aftermarket switch with just some wires with the proper male and female wire connectors. The stock wire harness has a 6 pin harness with the headlight, tail light, power and relay pins along with two empty spots. but he connected the new after market switch with one wire from power slot to post on switch one wire connecting headlight slot to proper post on switch and one wire connecting taillight slot with proper post on switch, however, the relay slot was left empty. after reading post by ???Daniele C??? about the 521 headlight wiring I figured the lack of the relay switch being in the circuit now is leading to the over heating, blown fuse and over heating/blown fuse of the after market switch. Just recently I changed to a job which requires a longer so commute so I am assuming the lack of drive time before was enough to allow me to use his wire setup without a blown fuse, but now for whatever reason it's popping them. with aftermarket switch I get continuity power to taillight post and cont. power to tail to headlight when in respective positions. Before the fuse blew I had fully working head, tail, marker, instrument, stop and high beam light. I am thinking my issue with the overheating fuses is the lack of relay in my circuit and I just need to wire it in. I am just trying to figure out how to wire it in with existing aftermarket switch or do I only have the option of buying a harnessed switch for like 80 bucks? Or is there some other option? Any help would be appreciated sorry for the length wanted to make sure I fully explained what I have seen and done James