280zex

To note: depending on your altitude of where you live, you will need to increase the size of the secondary Idle Feed Restrictors. How much you ask??? I dunno, every car is different...

I have many pix. I dont have a web host for the pix. screw photobucket. you can find my pix on the facebook ratsun page........

ok this is my mods and adjustments for a Holley model 4150 390cfm 4bbl double pumper for turbo charging, blow thru style BUY the blue reuseable metering block and fuel bowl gaskets along with the teflon fuel bowl screw gaskets, your going to need them. Main Body Mods: Mill off the choke horn, fill in the linkage holes in the main body from the choke. use fuel resistant epoxy Block off the secondary side vacuum channel for the power valve in the bottom of the main body. Block off all 4 high speed air bleeds. IF you do not have adjustable low speed air bleeds: remove the brass inserts (air bleeds) from the 4 low speed air bleeds, drill and tap holes to accept Idle Feed Restrictors with a 1/8 tap. This is a less expensive mod because standard size low speed air bleeds cost more than the smaller sized idle feed restrictors. AND most hot rod shops keep Idle feed restrictors on hand, so hopefully no special order stuff ;-) Primary side low speed air bleeds are 77 Secondary side low speed air bleeds are 52 Metering blocks: I use 2 primary Quick Fuel no vac port metering blocks because I need a standard power valve for the primary side, and a modified Boost regulated power valve (BRPV) for the secondary side. Google hangar 18 mods for BRPV mods, or goto theturboforums.com and do some reading there... Primary Metering Block: Main Jet #51.2 Idle feed Restrictors #33 Power Valve #10.5 Power Valve Channel Restrictors #55 Secondary Metering Block: Main Jet #60 Idle Feed Restrictors #55 Boost Regulated Power Valve #1.5 -------- I.E. I modified a #1.5 Holley power valve to work with boost pressure, GOOGLE BRPV!!!! Boost Valve Channel Restrictors #77 Float Bowls: single fuel feed float bowls with #130 viton needles and seats. Nytrile floats 30 cc accel pump shot for both fuel bowls, remove the pump arm from the secondary accel pump diafram, I didnt need the double pump action. Throttle Base Plate: Install new throttle shaft bushings, dont be cheap, just do it!!! Remove the secondary side accel pump cam and arm Install the Blue accel pump cam on hole 1 for the primary accel pump shot Install an adjustable secondary throttle shaft link arm and adjust to where the slack is just barely taught Install a back fire protection check valve for the primary power valve, YOU NEED THIS!! MY base plate is set up for 2 corner idle mixture adjustment. I tried the 4 corner idle base and it didnt work for me. IF your confused, just google it....or go to theturboforums.com Idle screw adjustment: 1 turn out from closed position on the primary side, CLOSE the secondary side completely or it can flood out your idle mixture. This is my current running setup. Im at about 150-200 feet above sea level You also need a boost refrenced rising rate ( 1 to 1 ) adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Low pressure-high volume, fuel return style. I use AEM I use the stock Nissan fuel injection fuel pump for the 280Z, stock fuel lines. 50 micron Edelbrock fuel filter with replaceable filter element. My idle fuel pressure is 6lbs. TO NOTE: use caution during assembly of the metering block and fuel bowls to the main body. The gaskets can bunch up around the air flute holes at the top middle section of the metering block ON BOTH SIDES. IF you dont get this right you will push fuel out of this area and have a 400 HP FLAME THROWER!!!

I have what you need, send me a pm

I have it, 15$. Im located in Washington. Let me know what else you may need, Im parting out a 1985 720 ;-)

Hey you did right, but I can help make it better. I MAKE blow thru systems for Datsuns and tune for Datsuns!!!! I have a 1976 280Z Holley blow thru with t3/t04E at 20lbs boost.......

Yup, sounds like what i told the shop i went to. They want the diff out tho :-/ Unfortunately i am physicaly unable to fix it, broke my back a few months ago. I already traded my vw caddie to some guy off craigslist to get my blown trans replaced... Stupid leak ;-/

1985 kc st 4x4 front diff leaking out the inpit shaft seal... Its a small leak, but its still a leak ;-/ The local shop said the diff must be removed to repair??? it seems odd that the diff needs to come out for repair??? Normaly i do all my own repair work, but i am now physicaly unable to fix it ;-/ I assume the retaining nut on that shaft is 250 ft lbs??

Well now that i cleaned out all the rats nest crap the water is just gushing thru the blower housing and flooding my floor board. Now its raining like a mofo and i got no dry place to park ;-/ Gona have to perform emergency repair with some sillycone caulk..... Shit.....

I could not figure out how the cab was getting soaking wet, so i started to tear into the heater fresh air intake vent. I seen water coming in, but it didnt make sence from where. Then i jad a brilliant idea to remove the wiper/fire wall valance and found a rats nest with babys!! Rat piss is corrosive, super corrosive, and it rotted out the fresh air intake flange. Its war says i !!!!!!!!!!!! I busted out some carb cleaner and fogged them little bastards out!!!! Now i gota find a way to fix that fresh air intake flange. The sucky part is if the damage is real bad im going to have to strip out all the wires and what not for to weld in some metal ;-/

Its a good thing you said don't get the eBay hinges, I was just looking at them!! I do know about the gl-4 gear oil. Had to learn about that one the hard way ;-( however the new 240sx trans with short shifter in the 280zt is awesome!!!!!!! I may even go this route with the 4x4 ;-)

Thanks for the reply. I have checked through the front hubs and they seem to be in good condition. Over the weekend the hydrolics for the clutch leaked out. There was a horrible racket coming from the front of the trans when I parked it. I figured maybe both front bearings/throw bearing/clutch are shot. I will know more when I pull the engine and trans. This will give me the opportunity to do some degreasing of the front diff area as well. Still need to check u-joints and perform drain and refill of the diffs/transfer case. The brake system is good and the electrical system checks out OK as well. The drivers side door and lower hinge is toast ;-( I do have a parts truck, unfortunately that door has a nasty dent!!!!

First off I'm a huge Nissan lover so this resto will be easy enough, second the 4x4 I just got is in good condition. This will be my first nissan 4x4! The truck- 1985 4x4 king cab st, 240,000 miles, 2nd owner ;-) The engine is tired and makes a lot of rattles upon start. The 5 speead trans makes ugly noises ;-( So I just picked up a 1985 short cab low rider for parts. The plan is to pull the engine and trans out of the 4x4 and strip for parts, has weber carb swap. Then clean that nasty greasy engine bay. After getting a bath its time for a complete check up. Then its time to strip the low rider for parts!! It has a nice set of Honda prelude seats, they will look nice in the 4x4! The real question is it worth the $$ to replace the auto 4x4 hubs for manual warn hubs?? From some searching the innerwebz the warns are about 250$. I don't plan on any hard core off road stuff so I assume that the auto hubs will work, but require more maintainance. Over all this should be an easy and fun project for me. I'm looking forward to my first nissan 4x4 project. Up to this all my other 720's were regular cab low riders. Now its time to get my ass off the ground!

Some locals wanna come help???? I has beer ;-)

I will post some pix when I get home later today. I don't really know the condition of the truck fully yet. Just got it last Nite, and it was dark out.