boxrocket

Yeah I'll try that - I'm loking at wiring diagrams trying to make sense of why that would do it. Quick question, kind of unrelated. I was inspecting my external regulator plug that I left on the main harness (I jumpered the regulator side of the harness) and I noticed a four wire plug with a black, blue, wht/blu, and yellow wire color but I can't find what it's for on my wiring diagram. It comes out of the main harness very near where the six wire regulator plug comes off. Any ideas?

The car currently has no gauge cluster installed, so no, there is no charging light even in the circuit. The plugs that go to the back of the gauges are essentially just hanging there. However by that logic there would be zero charge at any rpms, but I'm getting charging voltage, it only happens after I rev the engine up.

Hey everyone, I have kind of a weird problem I can't figure out. I have a 72 510 with an internal regulator alternator upgrade and an L20B. The alternator is out of a 82 720 rated at 50 amps. I connected the wires as per the IR upgrade diagram. Everything was fine for a while, but then... I noticed my headlights were dim when I would start the car, and they wouldn't get bright until I got to about 3000 rpms or so, and then they would brighten up and stay bright, even at idle. But they would be dim until I got to that magic rpm and then they would be fine. I figured it was a bad internal regulator so I took the alternator in and it tested good. But I got another one anyway just because the bearings were noisy in the other one. So I popped the new one in and same problem. This is what I've done so far. I checked the alternator output at the post at idle and its 12V. Then I would rev up the engine and once it pops up to 14 it will stay there, but it does taper off to about 13 or so volts the lower the rpms get, like at around idle. Checked the upgrade wire I added from the alt. post to the battery and I've got matching voltage at the battery...it's doing the same thing as the alt. I checked the belt and made sure it was spinning properly, I even turned the engine over by hand and visually saw the alt turning okay. If I start the car and let it idle and pull the battery negative off the car dies, but conversly if I rev it to get the 14v and take the cable off it stays running. I'm thinking there may be a wiring problem associated with the field activation jumper but I wanted to get some input if anyone has ever ran into this problem before. Thanks ahead of time.

Hey everyone, I need a hood latch assembly for a 72 510 two door...not sure if they are different. I found one on ebay but it's for RHD? I don't think it will work. If anyone has a good working one email me, thanks. I'd be okay with just the bottom part, the hood already has the top part but it's a little rusty, kind of wanted to replace the whole thing.

Hey guys I need a vacuum advance diaphragm for my L20B distributor if anyone has this. Or, if you have an entire distributor that is vacuum advance I'd be willing to trade my mechanical advance Mallory Unilite distributor for that. With the wires and coil and everything because you'd need all that stuff anyway.

What's up everyone - I need a straight hood for my 72 510. Factory, hood hinges would also be helpful. Preferably close by...I'm in Redlands, CA.

I'm looking to add an a/c compressor to an L20B 510 I need to know if someone can point me in the right direction as far as where to look for a direct fit compressor and/or mounting solutions or if an entire aftermarket kit would be a better idea.

I'm starting to piece together a VG swap and had a few questions on compatibility. Will an 1986 300zx 5 speed trans work with an 03 VG33? And also if that is possible what do I need to look at for a clutch package and a compatible lightweight flywheel?

75 for both of the rear quarter windows

New guy = Keith. It was awesome meeting you guys last night and I'm hoping to start coming to more meets. Here's my dime with San Gorgonio.