WRR

Hi, Do you still have the L-18? Thanks

It is very nice stuff and works well but is better suited for full on race applications. It is IR and is not ideal for the street. A system with a plenum after the TB and shared by all runners is best for daily driving. Steve

The cost to make a manifold that would work as well as the modified L6 type would cost a pretty penny. The intake runners already have very well engineered taper and length and also the resultant plenum works out very very well. I did one years ago that came out quite nice and looked great after polishing. I believe the guy used the stock Z throttle body and injectors with a Haltech system. Steve

Nissan motorsport used to sell cam blanks but sold out many years ago. I think unless a cam grinder has one on the shelf, they are only doing regrinds which can be much less stable at high RPM when not setup by a professional. You end up using a much thicker lash pad and a retainer with a much deeper cup to support the pad. This also means you will have to run a spring package that is around 240 lbs open pressure. Your cam grinder should have this worked out and have some packaged offering with springs and lash pads. The lash pads should still be checked as they can only be ball-parked due to them not knowing the exact installed heights, whether or the spring seats have been cut, valve length due to stem resurface, etc. Springs are relatively cheap and should always be replaced when a cam is upgraded. I find this is the best advice as most guys wont have the know how or tools to properly setup the springs and check for coil bind without hurting the spring. The real lesson is, never throw away stock cams and it may be your only ticket someday. I know, long winded but I hope this is helpful. Steve

Oh, I forgot to tell you to use all of the Lokar hardware!

Chris, I have used the Lokar TC1000U setup on many 510's including my FP 510 and never had a failure. As a matter of fact I bought two of them for my racecar 12 years ago and the spare is still in the original packaging. You use the stock pedal setup too. Just drill out the stock ball on the upper pedal arm and drill out the ball or other feature on the carb side. Make a or use the Weber cable anchor and that is it man! it is totally adjustable and very well made. Good luck! Steve Estrada

If you dont use the spacers, the control arms will be at an angle that obviously compromises bump steer which can make the car darty when driving over bumps and even worse, braking over bumpy surfaces. Turning the strut around putting the brakes to the front, will result in less efficient braking as the wheel mass is thrown up instead of down into the ground which improves braking efficiency. Another VERY negative effect is that the T/C rod is MUCH more likely to break when the car is severely to sometimes only moderately lowered. It will break at the front where it is bolted to the unibody. This means you will lose control of the car. Not good Hopefully, this helps Steve wrroadrace.com

Hi, Dont know if you have anything left but and am looking for a rebuildable early "A" type 4 speed trans. Thanks, Steve

I have had the same type of thing happen and fixed it by cleaning up the the fuse box connections and fuses. So, I second the last recommendation. Steve

Hey Guys, I am new here and I know it says pics but here is some crappy in car from my F-prod 510. L-16 14.5:1 compression. The white car is a V8 M3 and the black car was a Carrera. Steve WRR

Hey Bob, Now this is a show I could make! Steve

Hey Bro, I can hook you up and best of all I live in FALCON too!!!! Steve.