EWD

Before you mentioned it I had not even thought about it. I looked around online and found this https://firstquarterfinance.com/is-it-illegal-to-drive-without-a-bumper/ I am in one of the states where there is no defined law stating a front bumper (or any bumper) is required. This does not necessarily mean I couldn’t be ticketed and have it determined by a judge to be unsafe or unlawful. I will likely put it back on soon along with a front lip. Thanks for the wheel props!

Took the dime out for a 100 mile birthday run. Took some pics with my iPhone 6. Need a better camera...and photo hosting site...

I took off the front bumper and put the passenger seat back in after completing 3pt seat belt install for it. Definitely prefer this setup without the bumper although I feel a lip or air dam is in my future.

HAPPY belated 510 day!

Sort of. The seat belt kit came with some large washers. I ended up cutting small portions off of each side so that it would fit through the hole near the top of the pillar. I used the nut that came with the kit and a lock washer to secure it. The hard part is getting it to lineup and stay in the right spot while feeding the bolt through. I ended up using Gorilla Tape to cover the back end of the wrench with the nut, lock washer, modified washer/plate and wrapping the ends of the tape on the sides of the plate so that it wouldn’t fall off while maneuvering it down the inside of the pillar. Once it was secure I just pulled the wrench free of the tape and took it out. Going to do the passenger side this week.

Yesterday/today I swapped the stock thermostat in my SR20DET to a lower temp Nismo unit. Swapped out the fans that came with my CX Racing radiator with some SPAL 11” pullers. The amount of air they move compared to the other units blew me away😁. Purged the cooling system and am very happy with the results. Previous setup was constantly going up to 220F. Ran it hard today on the freeway and puttering around stop and go streets in 95 degree heat and couldn’t get it over 202F.

Seriously! Removing the steering shaft from the box is something I’ve tried to do for hours with no luck. I ended up just getting the motor mounts for my SR swap remade so there would be no clearance issues.

I went with the B-Pillar in my 4 door and it works great for me. I am 6 feet tall. Plus I really don’t like how the belt would hang in front of the rear door when mounted to the stock spot. Picked up some new fabric and will be replacing the pillar cover.

I do have V-bands on all exhaust pieces and the stock pulley equipped. I reached out to my friend who helped a lot with the swap and when I mentioned the vibrations and that I was thinking of swapping the transmission mount he said I should recheck the drive shaft. He said that the guy who modded it to fit, balanced it “as best he could”... Well that certainly made me rethink things. I took the drive shaft to a shop that specializes in these sort of things today and they immediately said that the original u-joints on it were likely the problem. Both ends seem to get hung up for a second while going through their range of motion. They remade the whole drive shaft with some beefier u-joints ($260). I took it out for a test drive right after reinstallation and PRESTO! No more vibrations in any RPM range or steady driving. Quieted the car down considerably. Thank you Paradime and Datzenmike for your input.

Exhaust has rubber hangers at the mid pipe/resonator and at the muffler so should be good there. Do you know of any prefabbed rubber transmission mounts for this application? I honestly don’t know what other rubber mounts can be used. Searches seem to only lead to more polyurethane mounts, mustache bar included. If I can get away with just doing the transmission mount I would be stoked.

Alright here is the breakdown, I am running an SR20DET on my 72 510. Current HP is around 250 and will be tuning up to 275-300 in the near future with no plans to go higher after that. Comfortable cruising is the name of the game here and currently vibration is my biggest frustration. The vibrations do not occur at idle or while stopped and revving in neutral. No vibrations under hard acceleration or deceleration. Vibrations only occur when holding the accelerator to maintain a constant speed. After what I’ve done to try to reduce the vibrations, research is pointing me to the motor and transmission mounts. -Current motor mounts are newish Datsun 620 mounts. The motor will shift almost about 3/4” under acceleration (seem almost too flexible) -Current transmission mount bushing is a Energy Suspensison Polyurethane block -Just replaced original mustache bar bushings with polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension -CV Axles installed to replace U-Joint axles -Exhaust recently checked and does not rub on any parts of the frame or body -All four wheels perfectly balanced and tires are new -Drive shaft balanced Looking for opinions/experiences with going poly for both motor and tranny mounts or rubber for both. I feel rubber is the way to go for what I want however the flex/shift from the motor upon load has me concerned for transmission and drive shaft longevity. Does anyone have experience with the McKinney rubber mounts? Maybe they are stiffer than the 620s? I don’t see many other pre-made options out there and I am not opposed to making my own rubber tranny mount. Thoughts?

Lighting is a quite a bit brighter than stock lights. I’ll post a shot of it tomorrow night, ideally with high beams working.

Went supersonic and swapped the old headlights for some Harley Davidson Sportster LEDs, inners/high beams with black chrome housing (not hooked up yet). Wasn’t sure if I’d like them but pretty happy with the outcome. Direct plug in from previous lights. I will mention that both of the black chrome lights had a plastic piece inside the light that had fallen away from it’s mount. The company/seller I bought them from replaced them immediately. Before and after below. They ran $60 a piece.

I used spray on bed liner on my first 510 interior and it quieted the cabin down considerably and even more so once the carpet and the shifter/tranny tunnel cover (2003 Mitsu Lancer) was put back in. The spray also kept the carpet in place as the spray liner was a bit “tacky” afterwards. On my current 510 I used 80ml Rattle Trap sound deadening mat throughout the entire car. Floor, inside the doors, against the firewall, under the rear seat and behind the rear seat back against the trunk. The only spots I did not do were the roof and trunk and I have to say it is still pretty loud although I’ve got some vibrations coming from the exhaust rubbing on the rear cross member that has not been addressed yet and I’m running an SR20DET instead of the stock L16 (minor detail:). Having decent weatherstrip seals around the doors help out a lot as do newer felt strips for the windows so those are not rattling around over every bump. I just put carpet in tonight so hopefully when I take it out tomorrow it may be little quieter.

Thank you for this! I read this last night and couldn’t wait to make some adjustments. I had the same issue and thought it had to do with my hydraulic hand brake or the 1” M/C I installed. After adjusting the rod one direction the brakes started seizing after 2 minutes of driving. Went the other way with it (as far as it would go toward the driver seat) and have had no more issues. This is a HUGE win for me and my 4 door.