beev

Yup timing is also adjustable to load and rpm. I don't have a knock sensor however.

Thanks Mike for the info on timing. AFR is Air Fuel Ratio. I am running throttle body EFI with wasted spark. You practically wouldn't have a AFR table without EFI. As you said the lamda/stoic target changes depending on load and RPM that is what I am after. I have a Microsquirt with autotune on Tunerstudio which will adjust the VE table but it needs the ARF table for targets. Once I am happy with those you are correct I go for a spin.

Hello Again, Just gathering some information but I was looking for what do people suggest for a distributor curve or even better share an ignition table. I would also be curious to see any AFR tables as I am new to this tuning thing. I did a search and couldn't find tables, lots of curve examples but the more information the better. Please keep it related to NA L series. I have a L20b with flatops, cold static compression is 185. I have been told high 9s for compression but take that as you will. When it was on a dizzy I was running roughly 15 degrees at idle and was all in at 35 around 3000-3500 RPM. I have the mid points somewhere too I just can't find it. Many thanks!

Found the issue. There was a software filter on and it was filtering out teeth for the 36-1 wheel. Thanks for the suggestions. Now to tune and ask about ignition tables (in another post)

@datzenmike there is no distributor. @banzai510(hainz) and @Icehouse I tried carb fluid and nothing. What coils do you think are flipped? It is wasted spark and I checked TDC to make sure I wasn't out. The 36-1 comment leave me at a loss. I had a fuel only setup and kept getting noise in the signal preventing me from running. I think it had to be either from the Dizzy or the coil. I finally gave up as others I seemed to talk to loved the 36-1. I was all excited over FI but am starting to regret this 2 year struggle, SUs and Dizzy would have had a running car years ago. Now I feel like I am too close to give up.

Hello, I posted on the megaquirt forum but am not getting the feedback I was hoping for. If someone familiar with a microsquirted L20b an help would be appreciated in getting the car to start. Details of my problem are on the post here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=72787 Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. In the triangle of fast, cheap, and good I am going with fast and good. I just imported the car to Canada and have 45 days to get it running for an inspection by transport Canada. I am for sure new to the forum and the last time I had a 510 was back in 2006- 2007. I did an engine rebuild for that but everything else was untouched. I have a bit of a technical background and worked as a co-op in a machine shop for 8 months. The hard part is sorting through the details of this goes with that and oh if you are doing this you should do that too. I am going to build something nice and not take shortcuts. I am happy to spend extra money for longevity and quality but if functionally it doesn't make sense then no reason to throw money out the door.

Thank you. Only other constraint is to not cut too big I can't find a boot to cover the hole!

Thanks. I don't have a totally stock L20B but again not a huge amount of power. What are you thought on getting a stock flywheel and lightening it vs buying something non-stock that can just be bolted up. Is there a combo of clutch and flywheel that people really like and suits my needs? 12 -15 pounds is plenty "lightened" for me. If I have a line on a 200mm stock flywheel is it should I just get a roadster clutch? Is the 220mm a better option for finding parts in the future? Again any suggested combos and why would be appreciated. I know it is a matter of opinion and experience.

Hello Again, There are quite a few variations on this topic, however they are mostly directed to getting a new clutch. I am actually starting from scratch and don't have a clutch or flywheel. I am looking for some recommendations that will not break the bank. I would like to try and keep the combo below $700 USD, well below if possible but my criteria might make it more expensive. I have a '69 510 and am putting an L20b engine in it. I don't drive very often but would mostly be using it for trips and daily driving. I will occasionally race. I like lightened flywheels and understand the drawback of those. I have been looking at the 200mm options as it seems like if starting from scratch you might as well go there. Can you please recommend a complete setup and if possible place to purchase them from. To make it somewhat more difficult I am up in Canada. I have been looking through Summit Racing, Rock Auto, DP racing, and Datsun Parts, they seem to be the correct price however I have found so many options that it is overwhelming and am now frozen trying to figure out what goes with what... Thanks for your advice.

Hello, I posted this in the 510 realm but wasn't able to find a solution, they suggested I try here. I tried looking here but the search function doesn't seem to be working. I am sure this is covered somewhere. I have a 510 automatic on the tree and am going to convert it to a 280 5 speed transmission. However given that the auto is on the tree there is no reference for where to cut the hole in the tunnel. Does anyone have the measurements for location and pattern for the hole I need to cut? The best information I can find says don't cut the brake lines. Seems like sage advice but brakes only slow you down. I was given this as guidance already but it doesn't have a starting location and is a way bigger hole than I need. http://www.datsport.com/Transmission_cu ... rsion.html Thanks for the hours saved if someone has these details! It is difficult to measure 3 times and cut once without measurements.